[fried]

...M- Drove back to la prez to rescue my house/cellar keys from a tent I'd chucked out. Luckily they were still there. Then went to Elephant, it was warm but there was a nice little breeze. I'd decided on an easy session due to the heat, but conditions seemed O.K.

Warmed up on a couple of blues, then got stuck into surplomb de leproux http://bleau.info/elephant/7848.html. It went down in 4 goes once I'd realised my original sequence was wack. I hadn't even considered trying it when I arrived.

Decided to try for a second 6A and started on la moreau http://bleau.info/elephant/7851.html. A little disappointed not to get it, but I can only get 4/5 decent goes on the mono start. Had a quick go on http://bleau.info/elephant/7828.html but I need better/ cooler conditions for this. 

Nice 3 days camping in the forest and happy to bag a couple of 6As in the heat.

T - 3x20 push ups/ shoulder stuff. Need a stretch after 3 days on rock. Thumb's stopped aching for the first time since May, so I can do'em again.
W - Rest
Th -4x20 push ups/ 3x5 pull ups
F - Rest
S- Rest
Su - Gearing up all week for another session on Meilleur des mondes in Bois Rond http://bleau.info/elephant/7828.html. Heavy overnight rain puts paid to that, so I go to Gorge aux chats, have a hard session on Travaux forces and Gigi both 6B, O.Kish conditions for a bit then the sun came out and it was all too much. A pleasant afternoon of ironing.

Nice 3 days in the forest and pleased to bag a couple of 6As.

[the_dom]

Nice one Fried.

A really solid training week and possibly settling into a bit of new rhythm. Really enjoying the combination of a short lunchtime deadlift session followed by an evening bouldering session.

Mon: lunchtime weights - deadlifts (1 x 3 x 120kgs, 3 x 2 x 140kgs) and benchpresses; PM indoor bouldering and some hangs afterwards
Tues: Rest, getting over the last of my cold
Wed: lunchtime weights - deadlifts (1 x 5 x 100kgs, 4 x 4 x 120kgs) and benchpresses; PM indoor bouldering and some hangs afterwards
Thurs: 30 mins on the treadmill at lunch
Fri: lunchtime weights - deadlifts (1 x 5 x 110kgs, 1 x 3 x 130kgs, 3 x 1 x 150kgs) and benchpresses; PM indoor bouldering
Sat: Early bouldering - indoors. In 90 mins did somewhere between 15 and 20 problems 7A - 7Bish. Felt like I climbed really well; PM surf
Sun: AM surf in largish, very cold surf. After a big lunch was too tired in the PM to do much more than lie on the couch.

[tomtom]

Nice week Fried.

M: Logport wall
T: Logport wall
W: Work
Th: Work
Fr: Crag X. Failure again on Jericho Road - went and had dinner and drank too much that evening
Sa: Hungover - then went on Trans-Pennine-Ale-Trail pub crawl (well 5 pubs or so) bailed at 8pm went home still fairly sensible
Su: No Hangover! Went to Lee Quarry... interesting place - really fine grit (almost silt in grainsize) - some impressive walls but sadly mostly choss. Had some fun at the Pool Boulder - didnt manage either of the 7s on there but had an OK work out..

[nai]

m nowt
T - smalldale, did all teh hard climbing on the *** 7a+ onsight then relaxed thinking ot was in teh bag and kind of barndoored off making the final clip. Redpoint a chance to enjoy it all over again, really good route.
w nowt
Th - Tor, worked start of Body Machine, mostly a struggle, connies not great either, motivation quite low
F 4x10mins Aero while asking myself why?  Drive to Portsmouth
S - Drive Le Havre to Vannes, start holiday
s nowt

[T_B]

85.8Kg

M - School lunch. Working individual moves on new pink circuit. Did 1-4-7 a couple of times to finish.
T - P.M. Rubicon. Not good conditions. Had 5 minute look at Zeke and sacked it off. Went on Salar in hope of consolation prize, but slipped off the slap. Finished with some traversing.
W -
T - Foundry lunch. F/board. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, back 3 with 2 mins rest. 2 x 6 x 7 smallest rungs on BM with 3 mins rest. Then Wave/Bleaustone 2 x 10 mins on, 5 mins off.
F - Foundry lunch. 2 x 10 mins on, 5 mins off, then a harder 5 mins on, 5 mins off then 10 mins on.
S - 19-mile hilly bike ride with my bro (1h5 15mins)
S - P.M. F/board. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3 with 2Kg weight. Failed on 3 back 3. Did some 10 secs on half-crimped and full crimped with 2Kg weight.

Elbow fine having dropped foot-on campussing this wk. Finished 4-wk block of AeroCap in attempt to have some fitness in mid-August. Start doing some circuits this week or next (can climb outside a couple of evenings this week)

[andy popp]

M - nowt
T - would normally be the board in the evening but realise the forecast is improving and I can get out Wed evening so nowt.
W - Harmers project in the evening.  Change my sequence again and at last, for the first time, manage to climb through the start but teeter off getting properly established in the upper bit. Leave knackered after many goes.
T - 12 hour work day.
F - Saturday will be my last chance to climb before going on holiday so resting.
S - Harmers very early. Every time just not quite getting as far as I did on Wednesday. Eventually I do but teeter off and split a tip in a crucial place. Ah well,  so it doesn't happen before going away. I realise I'm making a right meal of this not very hard problem,  but it is challenging for me. Which is good.
S - packing etc

Off on hols this morning. I've packed shoes and a chalk bag just in case and on Saturday I bought a pair of rock rings,  determined to try and make sure I don't lose quite as much as I did last time I took two weeks  off.

[Muenchener]

Goals? Bollocks. Without radical change in my work/ family circumstances or place of residence – none of which are in the offing - I see no realistic prospect of ever getting on actual rock regularly enough to become vaguely competent at climbing it. If I could think of something sufficiently interesting to do that didn’t involve spending every free weekend grinding up  down the fucking autobahn, pissing away a fortune in petrol in order to achieve bugger all, then my climbing gear would be going on ebay tonight. No sufficiently compelling alternative has presented itself just yet though, so on with the show:

M: rest
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Was planning to go real bouldering at Kochel but didn’t get away from work early enough. Did a quick late night max power bouldering session at the wall instead.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. DAV group session, mainly for social reasons. Powered out from yesterday, did some relaxed route mileage: 10 routes up to 6b.
T: mobility, knee physio, core
F:
S: Frankenjura. Leupoldstein. Hot & humid. Did a few easy routes – pleasant – then had my first go on a ‘jura 7a. Moves were ok bolt to bolt, but couldn’t raise the motivation for a serious redpoint assault in the heat.
S: Frankenjura. Went to Hartenstein – nicely north facing and shady – to escape the heat, but then it rained. Didn’t fancy the chances of a north facing shady venue drying quickly so adjourned to Soranger, home of short steep butch routes that are absolutely my anti-style. Flailed hopelessly on a couple of 6c+’s. On steep stuff I am (a) frightened and (b) have very little idea what to do with my feet. Both of these can be fixed, but not by acquiring more finger strength or anything else that lies within my comfort zone. Need to get on safe steep routes and fall off them.

[duncan]

STG: OS E3. Double or Quits (by 19th July).
Navarro-Rabada, Naranjo de Bulnes.
MTG: E5 by end of September. 7b by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder and hip routine.
T- Westway: aerobic capacity (10mins on /10mins off x 3). Step-ups x 20 mins..
W - Shoulder and hip routine.
T - Westway bouldering: c.20 xV0-V3
F - Shoulder and hip routine.
S - .Shoulder and hip routine (in the grounds of Glyndebourne).
S - Dancing Ledge Quarry with the retired super-alpinist. 10x6a-6b+. Another epic journey. Set off at 7am, but exceptional stupidity on my part meant we spent 3 hours waiting by the side of the road for the garage to drain the tank (and my wallet) and refill with diesel.... 
On the positive note, this meant the furnace had cooled down somewhat by the time we arrived at 3pm. The shining slopers were still hard work on the heat, good training I guess. Dorset looked glorious in the evening.
 
A decent training week, shoulder bearing up, weight going down slightly. 
Plan: ease back into it, mainly mileage on rock and plastic. Do some kind of exercise every day.

[cheque]

STG- 7a  or (ideally) above on lime before September 18th. Regain some semblance of power. 

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- Sport 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Rubicon. As T_B says, conditions were not good- very humid. This is not much of an excuse for how utterly terrible I was on Rubicon though. This is a route I've wanted to try for years as it's the sort of thing I used to be good at. Putting the clips in I was utterly gripped, not helped by very pastey feeling holds and my mate's first attempts at belaying with a grigri. Bailed from the second bolt a gibbering wreck. After he'd got the clips in I attempted to toprope the thing.  Lowered off totally embarassed and demoralised. M'edTFU and had a few more leads, feeling weak but more comfortable and, crucially, taking some falls trying to get to the third bolt. The ground did not swallow me up and the tension lifted. Watching my mate have the final go to strip it I realised I could do the moves if I just relaxed.

W- Rest. A lot of thinking.

Th- Cheedale Cornice. I'd felt confident I could redpoint Further Adventures in Greendale but it felt hard first go. Gave it a quick toprope and remembered my sequence. Redpointed it first go without incident- it felt amazing.  Toproped some of The Corniceman after- hard!

F- Rest.

Sa- AM- Rubicon. Good conditions, determined to carry the calmness I'd felt on Thursday through to this route. Did all the moves on a few working goes, watching a few people warm up on it inbetween then redpointed it. Felt great.  This is my first 7a since October 2013. I did tweak something in the back of my knee in the process though. Tried the cruxy 6c+ there but wasn't motivated to redpoint it.

PM-  Max Wall. Mate who'd never climbed in the Dale before had a nightmare on the 6c so we ended up just doing that awkward 6b. Knee had felt fine walking about but was a bit weird climbing. Ended up just walking down the river.

Eve- Raven Tor. A bit of bouldering. Feeling surprisingly strong!

Su- Rest. Tired! Foam roller did wonders for knee- looks like it was a hamstring tweak. Need to keep warmer between attempts.

A great week- amazed myself by ticking a 7a within a week of starting sport climbing again. The hardest part for me was just regaining confidence, getting back into relaxing on the lead and focussing on my strengths rather than weaknesses. I think the best training I can do for my trip is just to go sport climbing all the time. Two months to go and I feel like I can climb harder in that time.

[petejh]

Ouch Duncan!

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond new route proj; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
Ultimate goal: undecided


Strength phase week 2

M. Massage
T. Fingerboard sesh 3.
W. Slate, Planned a three-crag day, first route (Geordie War Cry) was wet though. Did Great Balls of Fire on colosuss wall in blazing hot midday sun and got well sunburnt. Then went and did The Bone People in gideon quarry. Reminded me why I love that dolerite wall in Gideon, must do more new routes there. Realised I never went back to climb my fully bolted 25m overhanging dolerite arete proj after too much time spent equipping/new-routing in 2010. Will be hard 7-something and one of the very best around.
T. Core and back mobility.
F. Fingerboard sesh 4. New PB's on all grips, fingers feeling like titanium!
S.
S. Core and back mobility. Checked-out the Diamond to see how the Kittwake colony is getting on; still there but the young are fledging and all should be leaving soon.

One more fingerboard sesh this week then into the power phase - day on/off campussing. Shame to be cutting the strength phase short when I'm still progressing but fingers aren't a weakness.

[petejh]

Then went and did The Bone People in gideon quarry. Reminded me why I love that dolerite wall in Gideon, must do more new routes there. Realised I never went back to climb my fully bolted 25m overhanging dolerite arete proj after too much time spent equipping/new-routing in 2010. Will be hard 7-something and one of the very best around.

In the very small likelihood that anyone reads this and thinks they should go and do the proj; I meant I realised I need to go back and finish it off! Anyway I figure I've got at least another 4 years of rabidly territorial behaviour based on current precedent...

[kelvin]

Mon - Pinnacle. Circuit/system board. Did alright.
The - Run. Warmup and then two miles. Pushed hard. No watch.
Wed - Big Rock. Mate who's been having chemo rang to say he'd been given the okay! So relieved. Put shoes on but bouldered like a prat, the head was going a hundred miles an hour. Got on the auto belay and lapped an overhanging 5b for a while, 10 laps or so but was pretty much an emotional wreck. So had a coffee, went upstairs to the 45deg systems board and tried my luck for the first time.
Surprised myself by eventually being able to pull on and make some moves on the little wooden holds. I have a whole new respect for them that can use these things hard.
Run after.
Thu - Yoga class. First time in three weeks and it was tough. Knees are unhappy due to the running I guess.
Fri - Somehow found myself on a date. Started calmly, got very drunken, home at 5am still clattered.
Sat - Horseshoe. Still ruined. Liked the climbing on the Main Wall but the place aint pretty. Worked a 6c Rainsomething or other, second go did all the moves to the last hard one and just faded. Really pleased considering the mess I was. Got on a 7 a later but I was empty and feeling pukey, so had a beer and chilled.
Sun - Horseshoe.  Mate was having a head drama most of the day about loose rock, ledges, belaying, death. He ended up abbing for gear twice. I tried to flash 6b for warmup, was going well but forgot to breath again and that ended that. Got on a 6c, was going good till I ran our of juice. Then got on the 7a+. One foot move needs sorting at the bottom hard bit, the piss easy bit is piss easy and I reckon with some tweaking of moves, sleep, less beer I could maybe get to the crux. No hope on that. I can see the moves but I can't boulder that hard on the ground even.

Due to just working moves lately, I got a bit pumped this weekend but in general, really pleased to have even got on 6c & 7a+ on lead. Even strung some of the harder sequences together and starting to trust my feet on limestone finally.
That 45 systems board - my fingers and forearms throbbed for hours after but one day, I want one or something like. Brutal and addictive.

A great week. Not climbing well, no fluidness at all but feeling strong and the head doesn't even think about being above gear and I'm committing to marginal moves straight away. Just need to not get ruined the night before and fight the beer sweats all day.


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[Ally Smith]

Anyway I figure I've got at least another 4 years of rabidly territorial behaviour based on current precedent...

Yeah, I expect at least 8 years to do my current crop of bolted projects...

p.s. Did you put Si Panton on to me?

[Schnell]

STG: fix the current crop of injuries, mixed results this week
MTG: 7C this winter, 7B in font in sept/oct

M. core and shoulder stability, plus some pull ups and rows
T. moderate bouldering session indoors, did finger rehab but felt a slight tweak so gave up early
W. same as mon, core and shoulders
T. more indoor bouldering, sacked off after an hour feeling exhausted
F.
S. outdoor bouldering, I was along for the day out, the fingers felt ultra tweaky
S. various outdoor activities followed by a cracker of a migraine, still recovering from this

Not a good week over all. The a2 injury I have was well on the way to recovery last week, but now I've either managed to reinjure it or else cause a minor injury on the same pulley in a different spot, seems more likely the latter cos the tenderness is in a slightly different place. Not sure how this is possible if so because the only crimping I've been doing has been static and with feet on following the physio's instructions. NNFN
Given general tiredness, the (re)injury and my wall membership being up, a week off is in order.

[SA Chris]

STG - lose weight, get strong
LTG climb hard

I'm almost embarrassed to post, I've had such a crap week.

M - half day off work. Crap weather so took Kyle to climbing wall. He did a few routes, and a bit of bouldering some "sideways climbing" and was happy to eat Pez sweets while I did a bit of bouldering. Had an OK session, did a few probs on the reset 45 deg board, which is a bit of a weak point. Only route I climbed was to put a toprope back in which Kyle pulled down when I wasn't watching (about grade 4)
T - nowt, worked at home
W - worked late, too nice an evening to go to wall, then searched cast in vain for dry rock after morning rain. Nearly fell in sea on top of jellyfish trying to travers with pad on back. Found some possible new routes, so not all bad.
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - went for a walk with kids. Nipped down to Boltsheugh lower in evening (time limited so went to closest) and did a dozen or so problems, some repeats, some new. Stopped to check out crazy vehicle on the way, chatted with owner, turns out it's one of these https://peraves.wordpress.com/  one of only a half dozen or so in the UK. Has promised me a ride sometime, bonus!
S - nowt

[fatneck]

Despite wedding based shenanigans and a lack of sleep, a decent week was had...

Mon - Pilates - strong session!
Tue - Fully unmotivated but ended up going the hangar with the wife and had a surprisingly good session!
Wed - Gym at lunch - lots of rows and tricep stuff.
Thur - Pilates - lots of tricep work! Argh... Drive to Wales for crouchies last curry as a free man
Fri - Crouch wedding - amazing day
Sat - Bit of a lie in, tidy up of reception venue (including liberating left-over samosas and bajis) then gentle session at RAC with Wife, Madams, Jennings and Smooth Pete. Gentle for me anyway, I made them go up and get scared on Viking Invasion and Mike did On One/One On...
Sun - Home alone for a week so hangar early afternoon - really good session, but appear to have tweaked an old wrist injury! Then fishing in the evening. Four nice trout.

A good week and plenty of climbing to look forward to in the coming week!

[iain]

... we spent 3 hours waiting by the side of the road for the garage to drain the tank (and my wallet) and refill with diesel.... 

Ouch!

A great week- amazed myself by ticking a 7a within a week of starting sport climbing again. The hardest part for me was just regaining confidence, getting back into relaxing on the lead and focussing on my strengths rather than weaknesses. I think the best training I can do for my trip is just to go sport climbing all the time. Two months to go and I feel like I can climb harder in that time.

Good stuff Cheque.

STG: Post holiday get all over fit for the Dolomites

M: No idea ... (what I did that day although probably a general state of mind too)

T: Rest

W: Lunchtime redpoint prep followed by evening at the Cornice on Unleashing. Redpoint 1 fell at crux, redpoint 2 foot slipped on damp hold, redpoint 3 steady all the way to the last move, launched and got fngers over the final hold only for momentum to drag me off. Good vibe at the crag with 2 others doing the route that evening.

T: Nothing

F: Start of holiday vibes, noms and 

S: , N.Wales with Suse for a stomp along Crib Goch.

S: Torrential rain overnight but still managed Lorraine at Dinas Mot in the morning, felt like we were the only people climbing in the pass for a while. It was a bit damp in places.

This was the last week of training before non-climbing holiday. I thought training over the last 3-4 months since the shoulder injury had gone reasonably well but if you'd offered me a last move fail on Unleashing back then I would've grabbed it with both hands. Had I topped it would've been the hardest route I'd done so to go from injured and not climbing to getting that close has just got me psyched.
Back in a few weeks.

[SA Chris]

exceptional stupidity on my part meant we spent 3 hours waiting by the side of the road for the garage to drain the tank

Been there, done that. So painful.

[Nibile]

Hard week, I managed to do something despite Doms, bad shoulders, bad elbows and this fucking heatwave whose end is being postponed every fucking week.
Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - finisher (1 min farmer's walk, 1 min ab crunch, x 2, three sets. Beautiful.
Thu - finisher (weights complex, overhead barbell walk, front levers) and sprints.
Fri - rest, I think.
Sat - standing ab rolls, tired. Then this finisher . Then went to the sea with my motorcycle. Mega fun.
Sun - rest. Drove back home, hot and tiring. Mega fun.

All in all I'm proud I did something, was beasted after the Dolomites and work and Summer don't help. Right shoulder is a mess after trying the project up there, as are elbows. Sigh. I think I'm getting more muscular and a bit leaner. Yay.

[mr chaz]

Well this week has ended well...

STG - Free Monster
LTG - 8a

M. Graduation
T.
W. Blackwell Dale. Did Jerry' Traverse, nearly flashed it. Made good progress on Paint It Black after failing hard last week.
T. Power Endurance, standard routine.
F. Rest
S. Rest.
S. WCJ Cornice. Arrived to find a party already on the route but they were very friendly and allowed me to have some redpoint goes (thanks very much again if that was any of you lot!). Fell off the last move again, couldn't believe it, swore loudly (sorry!).
Next go I messed up the crux.
Another good rest followed by a third attempt, before I knew it I was matching the last hold. Absolutely made up to finish it, was turning into a battle! 6 visits in total, quite a few more than I was hoping  . First route harder than 7c for me and its the most focussed/committed I've been on a project. Enjoyed the whole process and look forward to the next one.
Finished off the day with a few half hearted attempts at kudos, was never gonna happen. Then pub for a victory pint. 

Really great week. Graduated from Uni and redpointed Free Monster. Chuffed.

 

[kelvin]

Some good stuff this week!

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[shurt]

I'm almost embarrassed to post, I've had such a crap week.

Ditto here.

No climbing, no training achieved last week. Only thing I did of note was to slice a huge slice into my left ring finger tip with a sharp kitchen knife getting rid of any idea of any sort of climbing. Yes I know I could have done other body weight based stuff - press ups etc. but I've not.

Hopefully there will be a return to something other than lethargy this week.

Well done everyone else on your various achievements, its good motivation.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board worked out one new problem and several projects. Did an old problem using screw on feet, took a fair few goes.
Wed. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board repeated some old problems which took a bit of doing, but they took several sessions when I first did them.
Sat bike one hour intervals, then eating cake for the rest of day to celebrate my aunties 80th birthday.
Sun. Board big mirror session 49 problems. Bike 65.33 miles 3 hrs 42 mins. Battered.

[nik at work]

Can't remember exactly who's done what but congratulations and hearty backslaps to those who met with success, commiserations for those who have eluded the gaze of fortune and a disappointed you've-let-me-down-but-most-of-all-you've-let-yourself-down tut tut to those who have shirked (followed by a supportive, it'll be better next week cuddle)

STG: trad/sport projects
MTG: 8c, 8A
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderliebe

M - BM session in the evening, +20kg good session.
T - Steep trad project with recently ripped off hold. After working new sequence manage to climb from ground to crux move in oner, don't do the two crux moves, but climb from post crux to the top in oner. Feels very hard but doable, need to find a way of working crux moves, steepness and lack of gear makes it tricky.
W - BM session in the evening, +20kg good session.
T - nothing
F - BM session, no added weight. OK session.
S - Outside, on chasm trad project, top-rope it cleanly 4 times but boy is it insecure and bold. Doug said he wouldn't lead it, nuff sed!! Anyway very much coming together but it was previously soft 8a climbing (of a technical, sequency, insecure vert nature) with a half height peg and gear to protect the last move or two E8. Now it is soft 8a climbing (of a technical blah blah...) with gear to protect the last move or two, E9??
S - nip out to training traverse after kids bedtime. decent little session despite slightly clagged out conditions. Standard traverse three times to warm up, then work new harder finish to (no longer a) project traverse. Then do first half/third of no longer a project traverse into the finish of the standard traverse (~8a?) five times.

Pretty good week, training and climbing a reasonable amount, diet has been poor this week (very chocolate rich) so been a bit sluggish. But I like chocolate so don't care...

[Sasquatch]

Sounds there's a fair few people fighting for motivation during the summer heat.  When the motivation wanes, just be sure to do enough to maintain.  That way when you start back up, it's not from zero.  I've found this out the hard way too many times, and now It's all about maintaining a baseline. 

M-FB Max Hangs.  Still worked from Saturday's outside day, which was a HUGE day. 
T-Bodyweight circuit. 30 each- Pushups, leg lifts, Squats, Lunges, Wall Squats, Ankles to Bar, Ring Pushups, Jumping Lunges, Off set pullups, Ring flys, and ring reverse flys. 
W-DOMS all over...  Realized I was not at normal strength levels. 
T-FB max hangs at friends house.  Different Finger board, so no idea how it compared, but felt like a solid effort and workout, which is the important thing.  Body was still quite sore from Tuesday workout.  Also did Ankles to Bar, wall squats, ring flys, and front lever work. 
F-100 pullups, 60 ankles to bar
S-easy walk
S-Reed Lakes new area again, this time with a few friends.  We managed to clean and climb 9 new problems up to v8 this time out.  Left a few cleaned and ready as well.  Current total of new in this area is 22, and at least as many still to do.  Hard work though as the road been closed for maintenance, so the approach is about 3.5miles and it's talus so loads of pads are needed. 

Bodyweight is high (173-175 right now and fighting weight is 165-168), and the body seems weak.  Need to sort both of those out if I'm to tick goals, but I'm not sure I care right now though.  With the focus on development, I'm more in the mode of finding new motivating projects for next year. 

[rodma]

Mon: nuttin
Tue: weights campus and fb. Really struggled to do much.
Wed: wake up with a raging fever
Thu: still have fever
Fri: ditto
Sat: Kyloe in. Did the usual warm up set fine, can't touch my project, try hitchhikers ss rh but can't quite nail the move to the good standstart pocket. Did pallet lh thanks to some good beta. Good problem and quote a good scene there on Saturday.
Sun: should have been Shaftoe but weather iffy. Was going to just had back up the road but tried back bowden, which was fine, but I was too broken from the day before to really climb.

[Dolly]

M 8 easy top roped routes at the gym then Pilates
T Worked late
W Foundry lunchtime, Finished the rest of the new level 2s. Gym for core stuff in the evening
T Worked late
F Gym at 6:30 am for core stuff before work - only because I couldn't sleep
S Beginner's Wall. Did short problem. Realised I'd done Swing Thing before. Hot
S Rode the new trail section in Lady Canning's in the evening. Very good and pretty popular even at 8 at night


 

[shark]

Goals? Bollocks. Without radical change in my work/ family circumstances or place of residence – none of which are in the offing - I see no realistic prospect of ever getting on actual rock regularly enough to become vaguely competent at climbing it. If I could think of something sufficiently interesting to do that didn’t involve spending every free weekend grinding up  down the fucking autobahn, pissing away a fortune in petrol in order to achieve bugger all, then my climbing gear would be going on ebay tonight. No sufficiently compelling alternative has presented itself just yet though, so on with the show:

Ouch. Hope you can keep the faith

11.6-7

M. Tor AM with Mark R.  Rainy but not too greasy Go 1 on Anger Management sticked from ground. Go 2 led ground to pinging off RH gaston after clipping hard to clip bolt (=high point from 2 years ago). Go 3 not as good - cant remember details
T. Eve. Bachar ladder - tried hard but didnt quite manage the double double. Fingerboard - good session scored another 10 sec full crimp on 16mm with +15kg and three ok hangs with +27.5kg dragged
W.
T.  Tor AM Met Iain there. Bit warm. Felt ok on dog putting draws in. 2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down. Putting it down to greasy holds.
F.  PM. No 10 sec hangs crimped but got a PB (by one sec) for drag on 16mm edge with +27.5kg by one sec (to 8 secs)
S. Travelling to Squamish
S. AM Smoke Bluffs. Trad ! Toby put us on some classic cracks which I led and Tommy then did on my gear. PM Chek Canyon Sport. Busy with loud Americans. Got shut down on the last move of an 11c. Toby then flashed it as did Tommy on TR. Went on a 12a. Did the hardest move but was pumped and blew the move above and dogged to the top. Got Tommy on lead but he wigged out. Toby flashed as did Tommy on TR. Managed to redpoint it comfortably.

Varied week. Squamish is a great setting. Trad is amazing and Sport whilst not world class is pretty good. Going to make the most of it over the next three weeks. Toby is looking impressively skinny and giving me some stern lessons about dieting.

[Sasquatch]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well. 

[shark]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

  Toby's not keen. From what Ive seen so far it doesn't look like the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about ie lots of heelhooking and other weirdness. My eldest son well be joining us on Saturday and claims he wants to go bouldering ie get a 7A outdoor tick but usually gets frustrated when faced with real thing. 

Any recommendations for areas/problems in the V4-V7 range with decent landings, a short walk in and guaranteed to raise collective enthusiasm ? 

Grand Wall tomorrow 

[Three Nine]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

 the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about 

like west side story?

[shark]

T. Eve. Bachar ladder - tried hard but didnt quite manage the double double.

Forgot to mention later in the week I managed to do this ie 1-3-5-7. I'm pretty sure I never managed to do this when I strung it up at Broughton Wall in the mid  90's

[shark]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

 the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about 

like west side story?

Fair point. That was actually an inspiring objective in its own right.

[Sasquatch]

Toby's not keen.

I know

From what Ive seen so far it doesn't look like the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about ie lots of heelhooking and other weirdness. My eldest son well be joining us on Saturday and claims he wants to go bouldering ie get a 7A outdoor tick but usually gets frustrated when faced with real thing. 

Any recommendations for areas/problems in the V4-V7 range with decent landings, a short walk in and guaranteed to raise collective enthusiasm ? 

Grand Wall tomorrow 

Yeah for Grand Wall!!

Very true in general about the bouldering. Squealing Pork is a nails vertical v7 that would be good "wall-style" training. A bit highball, but the landings decent.   

Hmm.  Pretty much everything in the Grandwall and North walls is a short walk in, so that's a check. 

The Fuzz-v7 is quite good. Big moves, decent holds, cool kneebar.  Check out the vids so you know the beta. 

No Excuse for pr0n Hair-v4 and stellar, although probably too highball and landings are ??

This Monkey's Gone to Heaven-v7.  No heelhooking craziness.  Landing seems bad, but is actually fine.   

Viper-v5 is quite classic and aesthetic.  Funky climbing though. 

I'll try to think of a few more.  That's an odd range in Squamish.  I feel like the v7's and up really start to become stellar.  and there are quite a few good v2-v3 problems, though i can't really remember most of them.  Super Dyke and Dyke-surfer are both quality.

[Sasquatch]

Toby's not keen.

I know

Honestly, the trad is definitely a step above the bouldering, so if you're more keen on that, then go that way

[shark]

Thanks Sas,

excited about trad here - amazing lines everywhere

[Sasquatch]

Innit crazy how close Toby's place is to the smokebluffs, which are amazing. 

I think there's a really good v5? down the trail from Toby's place.  It's in the guidebook as a top100. 

[shark]

Innit crazy how close Toby's place is to the smokebluffs, which are amazing. 

I think there's a really good v5? down the trail from Toby's place.  It's in the guidebook as a top100.

Vigilante ?

Yes - Toby's house must rate as one of the best situated climbers house anywhere - even has his own crag!

[Sasquatch]

Yeah, I think thats the one.  Fun and nearby.  I think it has a v7/8 lower start as well, so could be an easier one to get son #1 on for a grade 7 tick...

[nai]

T.  Tor AM Met Iain nai/Ian there.

Same but different

2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down.

Been thinking about this since Thu, I have the same thing following a long shake when you've seeemingly got a lot back but then immediately blow up a few moves into a hard sequqnce. Anyone else experience this? Any clues why or what's the answer?

[shark]

Sorry Ian

2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down.

Been thinking about this since Thu, I have the same thing following a long shake when you've seeemingly got a lot back but then immediately blow up a few moves into a hard sequqnce. Anyone else experience this? Any clues why or what's the answer?
[/quote]

Re AM it's because it's hard. I've been jumaring to the hole and get shut down at the same point. Conditions weren't on our side

[JackAus]

Late in the week... Fuck all outside. Everything damp.

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: Fear Factory. Spotted mate on his long term project. Top was wet so no go. I jumped on a 2 year old nemesis and did it. 5m V5 slab. Rocksteady Teddy. Brilliant problem. Chuffed to bits.
W: St Leonards. New stuff. All pretty easy. Every new problem besides one of the mid-grade ones that just hurts my fingers. Good fingerboard session afterwards. Front levers. Going well.
T: St Leonards. Making up problems and repeating some of the harder things here. Fingerboard, core push ups and front levers after
F: Rest.
S: St Leonards. Usual usual. Added in a bunch of gymnastics stuff today. Started working on slow press into hand stands. Lots of pull ups. Worked.
S: St Leonards. Short session. Lats brutalized from yesterday.