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UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently... (Read 203828 times)

monkey boy

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Yeah DW isn't much smaller than Aidan but with longer arms than me. He's a really good build for most climbing. I was really surprised to see him struggling on this but whatever. I'm sure some of Aidan's new problems could be 9A.

carlisle slapper

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36chambers

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?

Please say he's not going to do a Dan Varian and keep most of the footage to himself :P

teestub

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Please say he's not going to do a Dan Varian and keep most of the footage to himself :P

He will take it off private on his Flickr account for 5 days over Christmas but not tell anyone 😄

remus

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?

Not sure if the FA itself was filmed but we (i.e. lattice) are doing a film about Aidan's recent stuff. Bit of filming happened over the weekend, should include some interviews with Dan V, Jack and a few others.

turnipturned

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Fucking Flickr

36chambers

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?

Not sure if the FA itself was filmed but we (i.e. lattice) are doing a film about Aidan's recent stuff. Bit of filming happened over the weekend, should include some interviews with Dan V, Jack and a few others.

ah brilliant, looking forward to that coming out

Coops_13

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?

Not sure if the FA itself was filmed but we (i.e. lattice) are doing a film about Aidan's recent stuff. Bit of filming happened over the weekend, should include some interviews with Dan V, Jack and a few others.
Fingers crossed that Gaskins is one of the few others  :whistle:

jshaw

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?


Yes, there's footage of all the harder stuff. Carlisle slapper confirmed on the Aidan thread. Really hope a video is put together and released, would be incredible to see.

Doylo

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Can someone remind me, did Aidan film all his recent FAs and are we expecting a video to come out at some point?

Not sure if the FA itself was filmed but we (i.e. lattice) are doing a film about Aidan's recent stuff. Bit of filming happened over the weekend, should include some interviews with Dan V, Jack and a few others.

Oh god, who let Jack speak? Bad idea.

duncan

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I couldn't find Solly Kemball-Dorey  on the list and his dad will not be impressed if I don't point out he's done 8Bs at Tintagel https://www.instagram.com/p/CFpUD-2gu2q/ and Hartland https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mjcQZg84G/ ; https://www.instagram.com/p/CDJn86LAw5Q/

Edit: misspelled
« Last Edit: October 20, 2020, 09:49:38 am by duncan »

BrutusTheBear

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Put his own 8b FA up recently too, as well as various other 8+ FAs in the South West.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFSBeXSgcpB/?igshid=d2cinqpqbady
The lad's a machine but (refreshingly) he's also got taste, has a like for a decent line and is out there seeking them out. (Dad raised him well!) He declared Godzilla at Biblin's as being a bit  :shit:. Don't expect him to turn up at the tor anytime soon.


yetix

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Hamish Mcarthur did Traci Lords SDS yesterday

remus

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I couldn't find Solly Kemball-Dory on the list and his dad will not be impressed if I don't point out he's done 8Bs at Tintagel https://www.instagram.com/p/CFpUD-2gu2q/ and Hartland https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mjcQZg84G/ ; https://www.instagram.com/p/CDJn86LAw5Q/

Ace, love seeing the young guns getting involved https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

I assume Traci Lords SDS is considered 8B+ now? I know the original 8B from the G was meant to be whack, but Jack's left some comments on UKC suggesting there's a much easier sequence on the stand after hold breakage.

yetix

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I think 8B? But I'm not sure. Just thought Hamish should have it by his name too as it's a top tick!

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Hamish did some kind of sit to Shyla Stylez. I talked to him and he wasn’t quite sure on the grade but he didn’t repeat Aidans Traci sit sequence or bother going as far rightwards as him, but that’s probably cause it’s now quite contrived what Aidan did. Certainly in the fact that he did the stand the original ish jump way. Since the emergence of the new hold on that face the whole way it climbs has changed. Some of it is a bit eliminate in nature.

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What he did is obviously fairly hard as Max Milne who is another weapon was with him and he didn’t do it. Hamish said it might be one for the longer gent.

Duma

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I think Fat lip is probably fair at 8B. It’s knacky and it costs you a lot of pairs of shoes, or at least the heels on them. Alex is right though, it doesn’t feel hard when you do it.

It does tell you how messed up UK grades are though.

looks from the other channel like bridal did it in solutions? or was that just for sponsors...

haydn jones

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I actually bought a pair of whites to do fat lip from weedkiller as I thought it would give me the edge I needed. Found it worse than my instincts. Megos did it in tenaya. Pete did it in sportivas and I've also seen lots of other shoes doing fat lip too. I think it just depends which shoes fit you.

abarro81

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Conversely, I hate the whites for everything (because they're flat clumpy shit, and don't fit me that well) but needed a pair for that problem because it feels 6 grades easier with an anaszi heel (for 3 sessions until the shoes start falling apart)

monkey boy

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Solly needs bumping up to 8B+ with his first ascent of Speed of Light on carnage wall. I watched him try this on 3 separate occasions and it definitely looks hard. It starts up the vault (8A+/B) does some hard moves and links into Autobahn (8A). Nice one Solly!

remus

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Solly needs bumping up to 8B+ with his first ascent of Speed of Light on carnage wall. I watched him try this on 3 separate occasions and it definitely looks hard. It starts up the vault (8A+/B) does some hard moves and links into Autobahn (8A). Nice one Solly!

Waddage! FA for your first of the grade is well cool!

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

Thanks for the details on Hamish's ascent Jack. I've added some notes in to clarify what he did and put it down as 8B+ pending any other info on the line/grade. Sounds like it's a bit of a mishmash on that face now.

G Tubb

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Hamish has given the problem on the Traci Lords face 8B, calling it Tracky Lords. I'd disagree that the face is now contrived, Hamish's ascent was the logical line

Coops_13

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Hamish has given the problem on the Traci Lords face 8B, calling it Tracky Lords. I'd disagree that the face is now contrived, Hamish's ascent was the logical line
Making Traci Lords Sit another contender for #biggradesforbadbeta?

G Tubb

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Quote
Making Traci Lords Sit another contender for #biggradesforbadbeta?

I believe a crucial hold is now better than when Aidan did the sit

 

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