[cheque]

James Pearson did the FA of Keen Roof didn't he? Can't see him on there.

[remus]

Good spot. Couple of contributions from an anonymous source too https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[Bradders]

Cailean Barker did The Ace in February.

Ellis Butler-Barker did Dark Matter stand 8B+ a few years ago and also has a clutch of 8Bs on his logbook including Fatman and Fou Rire in Fontainebleau, plus a couple of first ascents in Devon.

https://m.youtube.com/user/EllisButlerBarker7/videos

Some young scottish kid did a number of 8B+s a few years ago. Cant remember his name though.

Evan?

That'll be Euan MacFadyen. According to UKC he's done Helicopters on Beaches in Albarracin (not sure if that's been downgraded now but was 8B+), King of Limbs and Golden Shadow (both of which I think are 8B/+?).

[abarro81]

 

[monkey boy]

 

[gme]

[
[/quote]

That'll be Euan MacFadyen. According to UKC he's done Helicopters on Beaches in Albarracin (not sure if that's been downgraded now but was 8B+), King of Limbs and Golden Shadow (both of which I think are 8B/+?).
[/quote]

Thats the fella

[Bradders]

Haha I knew someone would pipe up. I'm not expressing an opinion either way.

[Doylo]

Will Smith thought Keen 8a/+ with the lanky sequence. Maybe he underestimates his bouldering prowess because he’s predominantly a sport climber.

[monkey boy]

Will Smith thought Keen 8a/+ with the lanky sequence. Maybe he underestimates his bouldering prowess because he’s predominantly a sport climber.

I think I used a hybrid beta but still thought it was 8B. Whichever way you do it, it's definitely not 8A. Will also thought climbing Weedkiller into Fat Lip made no difference to the grade 

[monkey boy]

Good spot. Couple of contributions from an anonymous source too https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

I think a lot of people think Practise is 8B+, I remember Ty saying he thought it was when he did the second ascent.

James and Ned thought Bordello was 8B+ and 8B respectively, not 8C.

[remus]

Now we start getting in to the details https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

Cailean: added
Euan: added
Lanky sport climbers with a rubber fetish: grading opinions ignored
Bordello: gone in the middle with 8B+
Ellis:  indeed. Lots of doubt over the FAs. Does fatman even exist any more? I've heard doubts over Dark Matter too (Ellis' ascent, not the problem itself). Verdict: gonna leave him off for the moment. Happy to add back in if there's unequivocal evidence.
practice of the wild: concensus on 8a.nu is soft 8C so going to leave it at that for the moment.

[Bradders]

Oooh just noticed we're missing a real dark horse...Matt Birch! First ascents of The Swarm 8B+ in Bishop and Somewhere in Time 8B/+ in Palm Springs plus ascents of Mandala Sit (which I think is 8B/+?) and a few others at 8B in the US.

[Sasquatch]

I'm pretty sure Tim Clifford has done way more 8B's than just the singularity

[SA Chris]

Oooh just noticed we're missing a real dark horse...Matt Birch! First ascents of The Swarm 8B+ in Bishop and Somewhere in Time 8B/+ in Palm Springs plus ascents of Mandala Sit (which I think is 8B/+?) and a few others at 8B in the US.

Slashface?

[wsmith]

Will Smith thought Keen 8a/+ with the lanky sequence. Maybe he underestimates his bouldering prowess because he’s predominantly a sport climber.

I think I used a hybrid beta but still thought it was 8B. Whichever way you do it, it's definitely not 8A.

I only thought Keen Roof was 8A/+ as I lanked past the one move from which most of the difficulty comes. I'm in no way down grading it for the normal method though. I can't touch it that way!

Will also thought climbing Weedkiller into Fat Lip made no difference to the grade 

  Yeah it's a bit harder but I would look like a right tool if I took 8B+ when I still can't get up most 7B+s. The move I fell off most whilst trying that link was the second move of Weedkiller!

[tim palmer]

Oooh just noticed we're missing a real dark horse...Matt Birch! First ascents of The Swarm 8B+ in Bishop and Somewhere in Time 8B/+ in Palm Springs plus ascents of Mandala Sit (which I think is 8B/+?) and a few others at 8B in the US.

Slashface?

High fidelity too

[monkey boy]

Will Smith thought Keen 8a/+ with the lanky sequence. Maybe he underestimates his bouldering prowess because he’s predominantly a sport climber.

I think I used a hybrid beta but still thought it was 8B. Whichever way you do it, it's definitely not 8A.

I only thought Keen Roof was 8A/+ as I lanked past the one move from which most of the difficulty comes. I'm in no way down grading it for the normal method though. I can't touch it that way!

Will also thought climbing Weedkiller into Fat Lip made no difference to the grade 

  Yeah it's a bit harder but I would look like a right tool if I took 8B+ when I still can't get up most 7B+s. The move I fell off most whilst trying that link was the second move of Weedkiller!

Genius 

I think for wads like Clifford and Birch you can't list every hard problem they have done.

[Bradders]

Slashface?

High fidelity too

Think Slashface has come down to 8B now hence not mentioning it and High Fids as being his max efforts but yes quite right!

Likewise for Clifford I think Singularity is his hardest effort but not representative of depth at easier grades.

Although that's perhaps an interesting subject in itself; climbers who've managed loads and loads of hard but slightly sub-maximal problems on all rock types and styles are arguably more impressive than people who lay seige to a particular problem/area/style in my humble opinion even if they don't end up doing quite as big a 'best ever' number.

[monkey boy]

It's all about the pyramid! Good depth

[gme]

It's all about the pyramid! Good depth

Couldn’t agree more. To climb an 8B does not make you an 8B climber.

[T_B]

It's all about the pyramid! Good depth

Couldn’t agree more. To climb an 8B does not make you an 8B climber.

When do you become an 8B climber?

I think this cuts both ways. I know people who should maybe, er, have climbed a grade up from what they have but perhaps they don't have the confidence/will to try. Yes we all admire those who can cut it on all rock types/styles, but equally you're not a fully rounded climber IMO if you haven't ticked anything close to your potential.

Sorry 

[abarro81]

When do you become an 8B climber?

Yes we all admire those who can cut it on all rock types/styles, but equally you're not a fully rounded climber IMO if you haven't ticked anything close to your potential.

Ste Mac once told me he thought you had to do 3 of a grade, though I can't remember whether that was "to be a grade x climber" or to "have really climbed grade x", but kinda the same thing (ish)

Interesting second point, I like it.

[Bradders]

When do you become an 8B climber?

I think this cuts both ways. I know people who should maybe, er, have climbed a grade up from what they have but perhaps they don't have the confidence/will to try. Yes we all admire those who can cut it on all rock types/styles, but equally you're not a fully rounded climber IMO if you haven't ticked anything close to your potential.

Fair point, although what even is an 8B? Or 8A? Or 7B? Etc. This is the whole trouble with grading in that one climber's grade x could be something completely different for another climber based on all sorts of factors, which effectively makes it all a bit of a nonsense.

I can think of plenty of problems where I've done loads at the same grade elsewhere but still can't touch them. Sure we all can.

That's why I think those who can consistently operate at roughly the same given level across all styles are most impressive. I'd argue that that is far greater evidence of a fully rounded climber than having done one or two things at a slightly higher level than your average.

[highrepute]

When do you become an 8B climber?

Yes we all admire those who can cut it on all rock types/styles, but equally you're not a fully rounded climber IMO if you haven't ticked anything close to your potential.

Ste Mac once told me he thought you had to do 3 of a grade, though I can't remember whether that was "to be a grade x climber" or to "have really climbed grade x", but kinda the same thing (ish)

Interesting second point, I like it.

I recall reading on here that the 3 should to include one on grit and one in font for true mastery.

[monkey boy]

I agree with you there TB, I like the idea of a good pyramid over lots of rock types, styles and areas but I also think there is a lot to be said for pushing your comfort zone too and batting on something at your limit.

To spend sessions/weeks/months/years trying something shows as much, if not more, dedication compared with going round and ticking lots. It's also far more rewarding when you do finally/hopefully top out!

Both are equally impressive skills but I think you can achieve both and that's where the magic is.