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UK men who have bouldered >=8B recently... (Read 201474 times)

Bradders

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does Aidan need bumping up with Superpower as its 8C/+? not sure with slashes if you're using upper or lower end grade on this or allowing for slashes?

Good question. Im kinda keen to avoid the ambiguity of slash grades. Perhaps we just wield the collective power of UKB and unilaterally upgrade it to 8C+...

Either way it's currently the hardest problem in the UK so would be a shame not to have it noted as such...

turnipturned

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does Aidan need bumping up with Superpower as its 8C/+? not sure with slashes if you're using upper or lower end grade on this or allowing for slashes?

Good question. Im kinda keen to avoid the ambiguity of slash grades. Perhaps we just wield the collective power of UKB and unilaterally upgrade it to 8C+...

Either way it's currently the hardest problem in the UK so would be a shame not to have it noted as such...

That’s only because Gaskins didn’t know that 8C+ existed  :popcorn:

Bradders

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8C? It's an old grade...

Orrincoley

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Armchair grade opinion here - unless he missed something it'll be 8c+ and a hard one at that.

remus

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Short of a commitment from the man himself to the big 8C+ I've put Superpower down as 8C, but more importantly I've moved Aidan to the top of the list as it seems like Superpower is likely the hardest problem in the UK at the mo and probably the hardest problem climbed by a Brit https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

yetix

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Jim Pope has done 3 8Bs at Kilsney today. What a way to enter the list.

remus

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Jim Pope has done 3 8Bs at Kilsney today. What a way to enter the list.

Waddage! For some reason I assumed he had a few 8Bs under his belt already. Anyone know exactly what he did? His account is hidden on UKC so not totally clear.  https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

moose

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Jim did:

The last dance, f8B
Antediluvian, f8B
End Game, f8B
Primitive Notion, f8A+
Diluvian, f8B

There's a lot of common ground on them but it was still impressive stuff to see - all very nonchalent and unaffected.

Bradders

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Jim did:

The last dance, f8B
Antediluvian, f8B
End Game, f8B
Primitive Notion, f8A+
Diluvian, f8B

There's a lot of common ground on them but it was still impressive stuff to see - all very nonchalent and unaffected.

Note that one or perhaps two people have suggested 8A+ for Diluvian recently but the general consensus before that was 8B. Hence the above report being 3x 8B not 4...(4!!!)

If it is downgraded then poor Pete Wilkinson will lose his place on the list for a 2nd time! His other possible contender being Fragile Steps in Rocklands.

moose

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I just cut-and-pasted the names and grades from UKC (it was hard keeping track of what he did). I didn't hear Jim making any claims re grades himself.  I got the impression he neither knew nor cared about the names or grades of anything he did - casual success at whatever he was pointed at.

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Diluvian is for sure 8A+ in my eyes. No harder than Primitive was the consensus at the crag. 

A top haul by Jim. He was so close to doing all 6 of the problems above 8A+ too.

Bradders

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Aye what a total monster either way.

monkey boy

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If comparing Yorkshire limestone problems I thought Diluvian was easier than Goyden Gold, so may 8A+ for both but who knows. The beta has slightly evolved on Diluvian too, which no doubt makes a difference. Jim showing his fitness, good training session for him  :dance1:
« Last Edit: October 05, 2020, 07:16:45 am by monkey boy »

peewee

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The beta has slightly evolved on Diluvian too, which no doubt makes a difference.

I didn't know about the beta for using the hold above the crimp, i think using the small crimp makes the move out left harder. Either way I'm still taking 8B for it, likewise Fragile Steps, the sequence used was the original sequence before something changed which made one of the holds bigger.

36chambers

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Diluvian is for sure 8A+ in my eyes. No harder than Primitive was the consensus at the crag. 

let's just make Primitive 8B and call it a day

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Diluvian is for sure 8A+ in my eyes. No harder than Primitive was the consensus at the crag. 

let's just make Primitive 8B and call it a day

Haha that’d be nice, but very generous. I think with my beta, Jim and I both thought primitive was maybe the harder exit but still not 8B.

I did Antediluvian this morning, and even though I found a few more tricks I reckon that one to be fair at 8B. Great crag for between the school runs, pity there isn’t some more hard stuff, reverse Mandela trav Into the boulders anyone haha.

abarro81

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I didn't know about the beta for using the hold above the crimp, i think using the small crimp makes the move out left harder. Either way I'm still taking 8B for it

#biggradesforbadbeta

Doylo

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Funny the concept of ‘taking a grade’. Punter tops out boulder problem: ‘effort mate what you taking ??‘ , ‘dunno pal gonna sleep on it, taking the Mrs out tonight, don’t wanna take too much in one day. might take 8b for it Tomoz tho. See how feel in morning, maybe the day after though cos I’m taking the dog for a walk tomoz ’.

abarro81

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A giver not a taker huh  :lets_do_it_wild:

Doylo

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It’s sad how grades are getting objectified. Grades have feelings too.

monkey boy

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The beta has slightly evolved on Diluvian too, which no doubt makes a difference.

I didn't know about the beta for using the hold above the crimp, i think using the small crimp makes the move out left harder. Either way I'm still taking 8B for it, likewise Fragile Steps, the sequence used was the original sequence before something changed which made one of the holds bigger.

You didn't know about that beta cause I had to come up with it cause my skin was too weak to use that horrific crimp  :lol:

Fiend

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Funny the concept of ‘taking a grade’. Punter tops out boulder problem: ‘effort mate what you taking ??‘ , ‘dunno pal gonna sleep on it, taking the Mrs out tonight, don’t wanna take too much in one day. might take 8b for it Tomoz tho. See how feel in morning, maybe the day after though cos I’m taking the dog for a walk tomoz ’.

Indeed

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Taking The Grade.

What a ridiculous concept. If I take the grade, what am I going to do with it? Stamp it on a medal? Tattoo it on my bellend (suitably enlarged if the grade is a BIG NUMBER) and wave it around to pick up hot chicks (or hunky blokes)? Superglue it onto my ego and see if it increases my sense of self-worth? Maybe I could make a little hutch for it, feed it kale and quinoa or steak pie and chips and see if it grows into a bigger grade? Do I need to take it on walkies? What about pet insurance? Worming tablets?

petejh

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'UK Men Who Have Bouldered Recently'... doesn't quite have the same cachet.

Fiend

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Well of course the real purpose of taking a >=8B grade is to make the cut in this thread, as any fule kno. No-one's arguing with the validity of that except maybe people who's 8Bs keep getting downgraded to 8A+

Doylo

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There’s no taking on this thread you get what you’re given.

 

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