Just curious as I'm looking to just get loads of route milage in, how specific is endurance in terms of style of route? VERY SPECIFIC. For example; If I was to go climb loads of easy vertical walls constantly for months would I still be useless at recovering on steep ground on jugs? YES, BUT YOUR CALVES WILL BE BIGGER. Just wondered if it actually transferred over much? NO. Obviously I know specific is always best. YES. The reason I ask is that I have a lot of non-steep easy milage stuff locally but not anything easy, steep and juggy which is what I want to get good at for a trip. Ideally I'd just do steep stuff indoors but I can't drag myself indoors in summer. DO YOU WANT TO GET GOOD FOR THE TRIP, OR DON'T YOU? Cheers. YOU'RE WELCOME.
Unlike the other two, I think that there's decent cross-over between most angles, though obviously the more specific you can be the better (contraction times more similar, other muscles (than the finger flexors) worked will be more similar plus you'll be more comfortable on those angles, you'll know better what you can recover on on that angle etc.)Where's the trip to?
You don't need the wall, if you can set up a couple of jugs somewhere you're done. Even a simpe pull up bar, with some rubber wrapped around it to make it more juggy and less fingery, could do. Put a chair on the other side, one or two feet on, and you're ready to go. You can do whatever combination you imagine. Stay put for 20", shake one arm out, shake the other, other 20", then maybe some 7/3, basically you can reproduce any sequence, endurance wise.
Quote from: abarro81 on July 08, 2015, 02:20:33 pmUnlike the other two, I think that there's decent cross-over between most angles, though obviously the more specific you can be the better (contraction times more similar, other muscles (than the finger flexors) worked will be more similar plus you'll be more comfortable on those angles, you'll know better what you can recover on on that angle etc.)Where's the trip to?Cheers Alex, that's good to know. The trip is too Ceuse, I've been once a few years ago and only climbed up to 7a on mainly the vert stuff.Thankfully I'm naturally good on pockets strength wise, espeically middle 2 but I'm also naturally rubbish at endurance climbing (which is actually what style I like most).
Seriously, those 7a+-7b Ceuse routes are tediously long and boring stam fests IMO.
Sack it off and go to Chateauvert? Seriously, those 7a+-7b Ceuse routes are tediously long and boring stam fests IMO. Nice views though.
They're the best tediously long and boring stam fests in the world though. I agree with 3-9. You're dead tight when you climb Luke (I often am too), only spending lots of time resting your way up stam-fest terrain and fanangling rests out of thin air is going to alter that ingrained boulder's tendency to tense up. If time/partners are short you'd benefit from clipsticking up the 7bs at Llanymynech and setting up a solo top-rop and do lap after lap to learn how to relax your way upwards and rest/recover when pumped. It'll be pretty useful for ceuse 7s. Same with lapping 7s at Frogsmouth (fairly local), that would work. Ideally though you'd match the angle - gently overhanging. Laps of Red Meat and Acrophobia would be good terrain but I tried TR solo lapping these and couldn't move for fear.Ultimately you seem to want to have fun and do some climbing whilst getting relevant fitness in the bank for ceuse. If you were a mindless automaton like me you'd just hit the indoor wall and foot-on campuss on large rungs until they kicked you out.
I agree with 3-9. You're dead tight when you climb Luke (I often am too), only spending lots of time resting your way up stam-fest terrain and fanangling rests out of thin air is going to alter that ingrained boulder's tendency to tense up.