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Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave (Read 3894 times)

Wood FT

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Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 10:38:15 am
Had my first go up this on Saturday - is there any foot/body trickery to be had going to the pocket that you can either back hand or more powerfully take as an undercut? Being front on/toe down with hands in the slots at this point feels really powerful and it's an arse of a move to work so any advice would be welcome.

Also keen to hear anyone else's sequences to the top from this point, I know i'll rejoice in recalling these moves when it's done!

Happy enough with the rest of the route, stunning steep stuff, bit spicy with the raised pebble floor too.

Doylo

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#1 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 10:55:07 am
Don't know any trickery for getting the backhand pocket. Everyone seems to do it front on. It's fine for the tall but is a move if you're not. From there I come into that undercut thing with my left then I put my left heel in a obvious groove on the left, makes the right hand moves to the pocket quite solid. The right heel swings round and go to the jugs with right. Left heel toe for the last move. Footage of it on Fresh Meat or

Wood FT

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#2 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 10:59:28 am
Ta, I thought as much, I'm 5'6 and a smidge so it feels like the move of the route. Felt quite privaledged to have it in such good conditions, the heel:toe finish is amazing. Well done on your route btw, I was with Gus up the road.

Doylo

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#3 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 11:02:12 am
Yep it's definitely a move if you're 5'6. You did well too get it in good nick. It's usually shit in hot weather. Glad it's getting some attention, hasn't had much for a few years.

petejh

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#4 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 11:09:31 am
Popped my head over the wall above pigeons on the way home on Saturday and, as usual, there was a kid crawling out of the sea screaming that'd he broken his ankle. Unusual to see people on the routes though, good stuff.

Doylo

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#5 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 11:12:37 am
Popped my head over the wall above pigeons on the way home on Saturday and, as usual, there was a kid crawling out of the sea screaming that'd he broken his ankle. Unusual to see people on the routes though, good stuff.

Wasn't my fault this time  ;)

petejh

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#6 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 11:47:12 am
It's like an abbatoir down there on sunny summer weekends. Kids were jumping in on the L of low tide!

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
July 07, 2015, 12:41:13 pm
But mum, the water looked deep enough.

Wood FT

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#8 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
November 10, 2015, 04:48:56 pm
Doylo/Pete, is this place alright in Winter? (seepage etc)

petejh

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#9 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
November 10, 2015, 05:12:41 pm
I think Stiff-Upper and the other roof routes would be fine seepage wise - Dark Energy needs a repeat... The ones on the right get runoff from above - Follow the Prof, Koo, Specked Jim.
It's more the cool moist air this time of year that would be likely to shut you down with gopping conditions. But stormy/very windy days like this week could be a good. It's tucked out of sight so hard to check for you and I'm not going to parisellas at the moment due to my fucked bicep - Doylo'll have to check next time he's down that way sucking on a fisherman's friend

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
November 10, 2015, 08:00:50 pm
Doylo'll have to check next time he's driving up to Rest and be thankful to suck a fisherman off.

Doylo

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#11 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
November 11, 2015, 07:49:19 am
Pigeons is best in cold weather. Stiff Upper is the only dry one I'd imagine though.

Wood FT

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#12 Re: Stiff Upper Lip, Pidgeons Cave
November 11, 2015, 08:26:11 am
Ta both

 

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