[fried]

M - 31°
T - 33°
W - 40°
Th - 32°
F - 35°
Sa - Barbeque, a much cooler evening, dropping below 26°, hopes for some action tomorrow.

Su - Rocher canon for the second consecutive Sunday (unheard of). Left early and arrived just as some thunderstorms had passed, not too hot, but muggy and oppressive. Warmed up on some yellows, then went to have another look at Caprice http://bleau.info/canon/1766.html. The Sun immediately popped out from behind a cloud, so I had a couple of crap goes, then went off to find some shade, Stupidly left my guide book at home.

Repeated a couple of light blues, but was getting fed up dragging my very large mat around, so settled in for a go on Bateau pilote http://bleau.info/canon/1663.html. Terrible conditions, but that'll just make it easier in the autumn. Finally worked out the start, but the hold were getting too greasy. Got the start wired, but yet another to return to in better conditions. I should be easy circuiting....

I had a six day break this week and I ache more than when I climb (before climbing), shoulder feels off, elbow was playing up.

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #3
     weight below 80kg - currently about 82
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine: 94.3%
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

M: Beastmaker max hangs. A kilo heavier or a second longer compared to Friday on seven out of nine sets: good.
T: Evening bouldering, Kochel. Working another 7A+ traverse: a bit beyond me, but encouragingly not *that much* beyond me. Only a couple of moves I couldn't do. Bouldering on real rock is so much better than going to the wall. The evening lightshow on the Karwendel was an added bonus on the drive home.
W: Bike to work 25km
T: Bike to work 25km
F: Beastmaker max hangs. I can hang a medium campus rung at bodyweight four seconds longer than I could in January. Good.
S - S: Family alpine wild camping weekend with M jnr & some friends. Was only two minutes slower on the approach hike than the same event last year despite 23kg rucksack full of glamping gear, temps in the low to mid 30s, and barely having done any aerobic training since the fiasco that was last years alpine non-summer. More importantly: no recurrence of the Mystery Calf Injury, so I won't have to cancel this year's alpine summer plans just yet. 

(And why was my rucksack so heavy, you may ask? Five kg heavier than last year, in fact? M jnr in full Fitzcarraldo mode, determined to carry his inflatable dinghy up to the camping lake, so I ended up with the rest of his stuff. I feel strongly that Fitzcarraldo-esque determination to carry boats to alpine lakes is a thing to encourage in growing lads.)

[tomtom]

Evenin all... Like fried - much of this weeks climbing decisions have been dominated by the weather...

M: Blackwell. Went to scope out the new problems there. Good visit - got spanked by everything but a 6B - but some psyche for some new projects there. Could see the numbers on the problems - just not strong enough to do them.. Mooched over to the Tor to see if Shark was there - he was and teased me for being a forum wrecker

T: Work in 'ull. Drove back - car said the temp ranged from 30 to 28...

W: Day trip to Liverpool with work.. half the train was empty as the aircon wasnt working in that half! Then took 30 min to get from Deansgate to Oxford road (broken trains ahead..). Sweaty tram home.. Over 30 in manchester.. Did some assisted one armers in the evening - for some reason!

Th: Felt awful. Really bad - like I was hungover - sat / lay on the sofa all day and watched wimbledon. Didnt eat anything until 5pm..

Fr: Still feeling a bit wobbly - but determined to get out as it was a bit cooler than the previous days.. Went to Helsby and had a really good session - strange - did nothing major - just felt good to be moving well.

Sa: feeling drained still - and after the rain of the night before and warm temps figured it was a day best not spent climbing.. but strangely motivated to do a 45 min Beastmaker session (not done one for a few months) and felt light and strong. God knows whats up with my body at the moment!

Su: Went to Warton for the first time... took me about 1/2 hour to find the crag, and as the brambles strafed my ankles as I bushwacked through I repeatedly cursed Grimer and his map - but when I found the crag all was well. Lovely spot - nice climbing. Didn't manage anything hard, but had a good tussle with Voodoo thingy and a couple of other 7's that I think could succumb to some lack of technique climbing...

All in all an odd week. I've felt strangely down on energy and felt like I've had a mid level hangover for much of the week, despite not drinking! I wondered if it was a heat thing, but I've not been that hot - and have travelled/been to plenty of hotter and more humid places without feeling like that for long periods.. Who knows!

[nik at work]

I feel strongly that Fitzcarraldo-esque determination to carry boats to alpine lakes is a thing to encourage in growing lads.

No idea who or what Fitzcarraldo is but the concept of kids taking boats to inaccessible places meets with strong approval

Fried I struggle with anything more than a couple of days completely off climbing, it just leaves me sluggish, sore and injury prone feeling whether I'm doing other non climbing exercise or not. Nothing helpful to add beyond a bit of solidarity...

Tomtom Voodoo is classically considered a bit evil if you're tall, but I think Warton is a lovely spot and the problems are nice. A few years ago me and the g-unit spent any a day driving up there to sprocket around in the pleasant-ness. Have to say on the surface your symptoms sound like classic dehydration, maybe drink more alcohol free liquids?

STG -trad project(s) and sport link up
MTG - 8c and 8A
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - outside, training traverse wall. Did standard traverse (7b/+) 6 times to warm up with no rest other than walking back to the start. Then had a dabble on the project eliminate, found a new sequence for first crux and managed to link from start to second crux, but only having one pad (under the first crux) didn't really throw for it, and was boxed out of my mind. Then had a play on Dougs hard boulder problem (~7C??) and did all the moves (couldn't touch one of the moves last year). Then had a play on a new boulder problem, only three moves but one of them is hard and the other two are harder. Finished off with the standard traverse x10.
T - BM session +20kg and one armers, levers, ladders etc. good session.
W - nothing
T - outside. Back to the training traverse, with a second mat. Warm up on standard traverse x5. Then place the pads and do the two cruxes of the eliminate traverse in isolation, then try the full traverse and get it done!! Only just though, banjaxed by the end and very nearly drop the last (very much piss) move. Well pleased to do this as I thought it was going to take ages and also it's really power endurance-y which is kind of route specific for future aspirations. Then after a rest I blast out Dougs hard boulder problem first go and then after several attempts, and a fair dollop of more resting I manage my project boulder problem (7C+??). Good times. Then trash my fingers trying to come up with a harder finish to the no longer a project eliminate traverse, come up with something that feels desperate, which is nice. Skin destroyed so finish off with 12x the standard traverse. Monster brilliant session.
F - outside. Decide to get on steep trad project. Tried this earlier in the year and it is super hard, probably fr8b+/c and a bit spicy at the start. Had a play on the spicy start and it was going pretty well until I pulled off the crucial crux hold. Leaving behind a gaskins-sequel micro crimper, from what was a reasonable first joint edge. Bugger! I think the route is still just about climbable but ooof hard.
S - nothing, daddy daycare all day.
S - daddy daycare again but sneak in a harried and somewhat mediocre BM session.

A good week, pretty intense again but successful. Still not decided if I' gutted or ok with Friday's hold collapse, I guess it depends how climbable the remains are.
Also really enjoyed the women's football, just saying...

[moose]

I feel strongly that Fitzcarraldo-esque determination to carry boats to alpine lakes is a thing to encourage in growing lads.

No idea who or what Fitzcarraldo is but the concept of kids taking boats to inaccessible places meets with strong approval

[tomtom]

Cheers Nik - I can get my toe up - reach the rh side pull and start to rock over but it feels rather strained

Be surprised if it was dehydration - that was my initial thought as I'm used to the symptoms and spotting it from working in hot places - But I've been drinking plenty, piss a sensible colour and not drunk booze all week. Strange. Might head to the docs to see if blood work is ok if it persists

[nai]

God knows whats up with my body at the moment!

Same as, mines completely given up the ghost, no energy, tired all the time, strength and endurance just disappeared.  Heat doesn't help but can't believe it's solely down to that. 

[nai]

Goals
manage finger injury until summer hols, RnR.
summer - train (finger dependent)
autumn - crush          "


M - rest
T - tried to escape the heat at Craig-y-Biceps, got on Laughing at the Rain. Couldn't do the undercut move (i.e. the move). Pulled through on a draw and would probably have linked to the top if my partner could pay out slack at the right time, ended up having to grab a draw when it didn't come. One 'kin job he had.... Tried the 7a+ just left but fell low. Might have had a bit of a tantrum.
w nowt
th nowt
F Cornice, had to redpoint the warmup. Tried Big Zipper, first go fell at the first hard move, 2nd go fell at the second hard move... Went home.
S went to garage in the morning to find it had flooded overnight. Emptied garage.  Managed 4x10 mins Deep Water Aerocap PM.
S fucked

WC 29/6/15 needs to be locked in a box and buried in the salt flats.

[the_dom]

Haven't had the best week either - what was it with this week?

Mon: 40 min trail run
Tues: Lunchtime weights: 5 x (5 DL @ 110kgs, 25 KB swings @ 24kgs); 4 x 5 bench press at 70kgs
Wed: Decent indoor bouldering session, max one arm hangs (tired, sore and demotivated) and core afterwards
Thurs: Hangboard session - max one arm hangs and repeaters and core
Fri: 30 mins on the treadmill at lunchtime
Sat: AM Hangboard - CWP protocol & repeaters & core. Was hoping to get out for a sneaky boulder in the PM but started feeling fluey after hangboarding. Spent rest of the day in bed.
Sun: In bed / on couch. Flu-ish.

Reckon I've been going quite hard the last few weeks and this has made me more susceptible to the pharyngitis that my fiance has been suffering from, which has finally caught up with me. Oh well.

Condolences to everyone else who's had a crappy week.

[shark]

11.5-6

M. Weighed 11.8 first thing but then had 2xBM's so classifying it as a void reading. AM Tor Bit warmer than ideal. Two goes on AM crux section. OK on moves but lacking PE. Nice morning until Cassandra showed up. With hotter weather forecast decided to train some endurance for rest of week.
T. Noon. Systems board. PE. 2 sets of 3 then 4 lots of 14 moves with a hardish start. Boiling weather
W. Noon. Did some hardish pulls then a couple of goes on a harder version of tuesday's problem with some fingery moves PM 4 x 14 moves of Tuesdays circuit. Sweaty work
T. Eve. Fingerboard. Better session than Sunday - and 1 sec improvement on two of the targeted max hangs from previous tuesday (Full crimp 16mm rounded edge + 15kg). Finger strength takes soooo long to gain 
F. Lunch and Late PM Systems borad - Two short hits 3 goes on harder PE circuit and then later managed to do the eEasier version x4 with only 1 min rest between goes but too busted for a second set
S. Noon eatswood Late start till mugginess dissipated For a change decided to go to eatswood as would be a more endurance oriented venue. Path had got overgrown with bracken and brambles and trousers got soaked on way in so a great excuse to climb in my underpants. Lovely conditions with a nice breeze blowing on to the crag. It really is an idyllic spot. Played on the second half of eatswood Reverse for a couple of hours till busted. Cleared the path on the way out. Got home had a nap then overto Lagers BBQ 
S.

Good week. Stayed off the pop till Thurs eve. Good weight range. Also played on bachar ladder at the various times including burning eldest son's climbing mates off. Lets see if the enduro work pays dividends tomorrow..

[nai]

11.5-6
 overto Lagers BBQ 

Ball,s forgot all about that 

[kelvin]

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic. Worked everyday too.

Mon -  Big Rock bouldering. Good session, tried hard. Got up nothing.
Tue - Run. Hill sprints. The gits had cut the grass, so mileage was out of the question.
Wed - Worked late. Run.
Thu - Did shuttles of ceramic tiles up 43 steps, weight between 34 and 43kg. Knackered.
Fri - Pinnacle bouldering.  Worked gastons with the right hand and then had a play on the roof.
Sat - Worked,  then went to bed early feeling crappy.
Sun - Masson Lees. Pottered about then had to retrieve the draws in the rain. Work after.

Managed to keep on top of the tendonitis, climbing isn't too much of an issue but sanding at work and using a roller really is.

Not climbing well at the minute but managing single moves I couldn't have done a couple of months.

A couple more weeks and hopefully the lungs will clear.




Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic.

I get bad hayfever - and this time of year is a total lottery for me... I take both Beconase (nasal spray) and Citrizide Hydrochloride (used to be branded Zirtek) which largely keeps it under control. But even if I'm not sneezing I feel wacked out. It's as if I'm suffering the after effects of the symptoms without the symptoms of that makes sense. Sometimes bouldering sessions in summer for me are limited by how long I can be out of the car/house before it gets too bad...

[kelvin]

This is the first year since I was in my early thirties Tom, that I've felt like I've needed an inhaler too - been too busy to get to the docs tho. Nasel spray is a must! As you said, the drugs alleviate the symptoms but I still feel rough.. Ah well.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Mines strangely been better this year - maybe at 45 in finally 'growing out of it' as I was always told would happen since the age of 9...

As a result I generally don't like summer and have an urge to napalm all vegetation and concrete the world

[petejh]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond proj 8a/+; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

Last 2 weeks spent resting.

1st week of base phase
M. Quad/hamstring strength and stretches following v.minor meniscus tweak.
T. Devil's Gorge. First day back on rock in over two weeks and couldn't get up Grand Canyon or Broccoli without pumping out. Good. 6 pitches.
W. Core and mobility sesh.
T.
F. Chapel Head Scar. Hotter than a fuck-off hot thing and not possible to climb in the sun. Did some sandbag 6a warmups then did some sandbag 6b warm up then some sandbag grade 7s. Chapel Head 3 star 7a = loose belay-killer blocks that have to be climbed around; average moves; no line and a sandbag grade. Woohoo! Left unimpressed, the Orme is Rodellar in comparison. Probably unfair 
S. Core and mobility sesh
S. Abbed into bottom of Twll Mawr and waited around for the rain to stop, then climbed Desolation of Smaug in beautiful evening sunshine. Amazing - well impressed with the climb! Highly recommended.


Pottering easy base week. Another to follow with some strength mixed in. Enjoying the shuffling.

[duncan]

STG: OS E3. Double or Quits (by 19th July). Navarro-Rabada, Naranjo de Bulnes.
MTG: E5 by end of September. 7b by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder stability routine. Step-ups.
T- See Physio. about hip, have exercise programme to follow
W - Hottest July day on record, west London hottest place in UK, so did the sensible thing: Westway, aerobic capacity (10mins on /10mins off x3)
T - Westway, aerobic capacity (10mins on /10mins off x 3)
F - Shoulder and hip routine.
S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. What were we thinking! Everyone in SE England was heading to the coast, slow-moving nose-to-tail for 5 and a half hours, literally from the start of the M3 to Weymouth. Went to Godnor to avoid the sun, stick-clipping F3+ scenes! Luckily the climbing was good, company and weather excellent, did 8 routes, stopped at 7.30 with gas still in the tank but another epic drive loomed.
S - Family stuff. Shoulder and hip routine. Micro fingerboard session.

Quite good week, shoulder about 60%. Plan: more of the same, mainly mileage on rock and plastic. Do some kind of exercise every day. One fingerboard and/or bouldering session a week. Fall off some routes.

[AJM]

S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. What were we thinking! Everyone in SE England was heading to the coast, slow-moving nose-to-tail for 5 and a half hours, literally from the start of the M3 to Weymouth. Went to Godnor to avoid the sun, stick-clipping F3+ scenes! Luckily the climbing was good, company and weather excellent, did 8 routes, stopped at 7.30 with gas still in the tank but another epic drive loomed.

I had planned for full on sunbathing and swimming conditions over on the west coast, but actually the breeze made it quite reasonable and I was in shorts for a lot less of the day than I would have expected...

[T_B]

85.6Kg

M -  School lunch. Mainly 50 degree. Finished by finally doing the Purple 7c+ circuit (having sorted out then end drop down on my warm up).
T - The Dark Room. Bit damp, but considering it was 29 degrees out, not an unreasonable option. Did all moves, but only crux once. OK, so the climbing is kind of novel/fun, but the venue - urggh!
W - yeah right
T - School lunch - 10 x 1 min on, 30 secs off x 10, then 10 mins rest and 12 x 1 min on, 30 secs off. Pumped!
F - Foundry lunch - 20 mins on, 5 mins rest, 20 mins on.
S -
S - 8.30pm decided to head out to Burbage for a potter. Gorgeous evening, even managed to do Blind Date (don't think I've ever done it in July - had to remove a fern from right hand pocket!)

Youngest child got chicken pox this wk, so weekend climbing plans scuppered.

Enjoying the hard work of foot-on campussing and rather than reducing rest, think I will try and work towards 15 x 1 min on, 10 mins rest and another 15 mins.

Outside projects need cooler temps, so happy to do what the weather dictates.

[T_B]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond proj 8a/+; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.

Pottering easy base week. Another to follow with some strength mixed in. Enjoying the shuffling.

Pete - I'm intrigued. Given that Diamond season starts potentially 2 or 3 weeks from now, the Brute is a PE route and you have a cut off date of 6 Sept, I would have thought you'd be hammering the AeroPow at the moment? Then topping up your power with some bouldering? Prior to getting on it. Or do you just intend to get fit on the route? It's a lot longer than the Oak, isn't it i.e. the endurance end of PE?

[duncan]

S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. What were we thinking! Everyone in SE England was heading to the coast, slow-moving nose-to-tail for 5 and a half hours, literally from the start of the M3 to Weymouth. Went to Godnor to avoid the sun, stick-clipping F3+ scenes! Luckily the climbing was good, company and weather excellent, did 8 routes, stopped at 7.30 with gas still in the tank but another epic drive loomed.

I had planned for full on sunbathing and swimming conditions over on the west coast, but actually the breeze made it quite reasonable and I was in shorts for a lot less of the day than I would have expected...

We were a mixed ability group  - not the retired super-Alpinist - which was another reason to stay on the east side. Wallsend would have been a bit much sadly (well done on Realm of Chaos). Ironically, by 7pm it was very greasy and even 6b was a bit of a struggle.

[Doylo]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond proj 8a/+; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.

Pottering easy base week. Another to follow with some strength mixed in. Enjoying the shuffling.

Pete - I'm intrigued. Given that Diamond season starts potentially 2 or 3 weeks from now, the Brute is a PE route and you have a cut off date of 6 Sept, I would have thought you'd be hammering the AeroPow at the moment? Then topping up your power with some bouldering? Prior to getting on it. Or do you just intend to get fit on the route? It's a lot longer than the Oak, isn't it i.e. the endurance end of PE?

It's about 40 moves so almost beyond power endurance but the lack of shake outs means it's not really a endurance route either. On the cusp as you say.

[AJM]

We were a mixed ability group  - not the retired super-Alpinist - which was another reason to stay on the east side. Wallsend would have been a bit much sadly (well done on Realm of Chaos). Ironically, by 7pm it was very greasy and even 6b was a bit of a struggle.

Thanks 

Fair enough - it's not the most mixed of venues!

The breeze dropped for us later in the day which meant we got deteriorating conditions as well - thankfully they were quite good earlier in the day so it was a case of good going to middling rather than middling going to poor.

Tricksy conditions, but a great crag... We got out just after sunset in the end after having to take a more faffy line at the top of the boulder beach on account of the swell.

[mr chaz]

STG 8a redpoint

M. Power endurance at the wall. Foot on campus board. 1min on 1, min off x 6, large rungs. Followed by max length hang on large rung ~ 7min 10s.

T. WCJ Cornice. 4 redpoint goes on Free monster, only got past the crux once and then immediately dropped it in the hard clip.

W.
T.

F. Max hangs with 5.5kg pulley assistance.

S. Rest

S. Squeezed in a session at WCJ Cornice. 2 redpoint attempts and ended up falling off the last move of Free Monster. F*ckin' bollux 

Mixed emotions as I feel I should've put the project to bed by now, but pleased to know that success is surely close. However, its getting a bit rainy....

[jwi]

STG:
Getting better
Easing back into climbing

MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging in Taghia in September.


Mon: Rest. Still sick, but much better.
Tue: Abbreviated Strength programme. Super weak. Out of breath.
Wed: Easy bouldering in the gym.
Thur: Rest
Fri: Granite slab climbing in Cavallers. Didn't need arms, so that helped a bit. 6b+, 7a, 7b, 7a all onsight. Was pretty tired/listless afterwards.
Walked up to the refuge at Travessani with haulbag. 1h45min hiking from 1700 m to 2200 m asl. Beautiful hike. But very tiring in my physical state.
Sat: Climbed vertical granite in Vermell/Travessani at 2300 m asl. 6c, 7c+ o/s attempt. Fell at the top crux. Very hard to read and seriously crimpy. Was absolutely broken after. 7c+ top-rope/checking out moves. Then the sun hit.
Walking back and forth to the Refuge for dinner 1h total
Sun: 6b horror show. Dirty. Elbsandstein-esque bolting. 7c+ RP. 8a o/s attempt. Did the first crux, fell on second. Too tired for more. Sun hit.
2h hike down to the car.



Progression:
Weight: 69-70 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5
Overhanging whites flashed in gym: 0

[iain]

Also really enjoyed the women's football, just saying...

Wouldn't normally watch football but me too.

@Kelvin and TomTom - I normally get hayfever badly, on antihistamines from April till August last year, but like TomTom mine's been better this year, only had the odd fully clogged day and even appreciating this summer thing. Have you tried different meds Kelvin? Cetrizine's my go to, nothing else works as well, but like you feel slow if I have to take it all the time.


STG: Dominatrix (not got time till autumn), Body Machine direct
S/MTG: The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Dolomites in September

M: Aerocap, 3x10min, not 15, not 20, just 10.
T: Cornice. 2nd session on Unleashing the Wild Physique. Got 'crux' sorted but I can either do 1 move which really hurts my joints, or 6 moves which don't  . Still find the top nails though.

W: Physical working day.

T: Cornice for the day. Started with a mini rant about Peak sandbags because I couldn't get past the first bolt on Clarion Call to supposedly warm up. Effectively fifth day on and tired so rather than Wild Physique got on Cosmopolitan. Took a while to work out the crux then had time/energy for a single redpoint. Proper fight with lots of grunting and desperate resting saw me finally grab the finishing holds. Except, the feet are all edges/smears that need good body control to use and my legs were doing their best wild Elvis. Clipping just wasn't going to happen ...

F: Rest, family visit

S: Rest, family visit

S: Family leave, late afternoon to the Works. High intensity with long rests, and finish with 10x40sec Ancap reps with 80sec rest. I couldn't complete the same exercise in March. Good progress.

Felt like A good training week, 2 more weeks before a non-climbing holiday. Aiming for good intensity/volume with the odd rock day.

Edit: memory like a sieve,

[cha1n]

Rest week from training this week and I definitely needed it. Had big plans to climb outside a lot this week but I've been knackered.

M - Rest
T - Powerplant at Cheedale Cornice, got on it and actually pulled on this time instead of instantly stripping it! Didn't do overly well but got all the moves apart from the crux itself and most of the sections I got were pretty poor, too powerful sequences to actually work on RP.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - AeroPow (foot on campus) and core
S - Return to Powerplant. After waiting 4 hours to get on it (see other thread in STS for details), I finally got on and EVENTUALLY did all the moves. I have a fairly faffy sequence for the crux but it works consistently and I did it twice in poor conditions (RH crimp on bulge was greasing out every go, skin was sweating and falling apart) and at the end of the session when I was really tired. Have also got a fairly good sequence for the headwall now with only the last couple of moves needing proper refining. I feel that that the pre-crux section is maybe a bit over powerful but hard to know until I get on RP. Psyched for it now.
S - Feeling wrecked from Sat and could barely move all day. Eventually got up to make a pizza, then watched more stuff on laptop.

So a quiet week but an important one with all the moves done on an 8a with nearly 6 weeks to go until the 8a before 30 deadline. This might actually happen!

Have arranged to go to try Powerplant again this evening but sort of regretting that now as I didn't sleep much last night, skin is poor and hayfever is insanely bad today.

[cheque]

Sounds like the heat fucked everyone up this week!

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic.

I get bad hayfever - and this time of year is a total lottery for me... I take both Beconase (nasal spray) and Citrizide Hydrochloride (used to be branded Zirtek) which largely keeps it under control. But even if I'm not sneezing I feel wacked out. It's as if I'm suffering the after effects of the symptoms without the symptoms of that makes sense.

Have either of you tried Loratadine? I get the drowsy reaction you describe with Citrizine but nothing with Loratadine.

STG- 7a or (ideally) above on lime before September 18th.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

M- Rest.

Tu- Pleasley Vale with mats and mates. Great fun. Did some easier up problems I hadn't done before and some harder ones I hadn't done for ages and felt impossible two months previously.

W- Too bloody hot.

Th- Pleasley Vale solo. Was meant to be going to Rubicon to get on a rope but the storms forecast put us off. Did the long traverse 5 times, which is a personal best- I couldn''t do this once in May.

F- Rest.

Sa- Swimming in the sea (the first time I have ever done this in Britain without shivering with cold after getting out!) and crazy golf at Great Yarmouth. 

Su- Rest.

[cha1n]

Hmm, I'm now starting to wonder if I was at the Cornice Thurs but I don't think I was. I'm sure I met Iain off of here at the cornice one of the days?! Is that you Iain? I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P. What day was that?! I thought it was Tues.

[tomtom]

Sounds like the heat fucked everyone up this week!

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic.

I get bad hayfever - and this time of year is a total lottery for me... I take both Beconase (nasal spray) and Citrizide Hydrochloride (used to be branded Zirtek) which largely keeps it under control. But even if I'm not sneezing I feel wacked out. It's as if I'm suffering the after effects of the symptoms without the symptoms of that makes sense.

Have either of you tried Loratadine? I get the drowsy reaction you describe with Citrizine but nothing with Loratadine.

Does nothing for me...

Citrizine doesnt make me feel drowsy as such - but after a couple of weeks I feel spaced out from time to time - and its only when I stop taking it I notice how it alters my mood..

[cheque]

Have arranged to go to try Powerplant again this evening but sort of regretting that now as I didn't sleep much last night, skin is poor and hayfever is insanely bad today.

With me I believe!  Let me know how you feel later. I can sort something else out of you're not up for it.

[fatneck]

Mon - Pilates at work - piss. Nice evening fishing session curtailed by midges.
Tue - Weights session - diary shows I ramped up the reps but not the weight, feel like I'm putting a bit too much muscle on. DL, curls, rows, flies and new PB on the C&J!
Wed - Busy work day - nowt
Thur - Pilates at lunch - abs session = burning abs! - all good
Fri - cardio session at lunch - bike (fucking hate it and binned off after 5km) then 10 minutes on the rower and finished off with press ups alternated by "resting" in plank and DD - 10 minutes. Hangar evening session with the wife and her mates. First time indoors in a month - I was shit...
Sat - day out at Go Ape with some scallies - not too badly behaved kids and really good fun! Then went to Bulkeley Hill Crag with the missus. Ticked everything, tried out new midge repellent (seems to work), did a "new" problem. Great situation. Probably wouldn't go back unless in the area.
Sun - ended up spending two hours falling asleep in the waiting area of the local drop in clinic (nothing serious) did nothing else...

Good to do some actual climbing. Pilates is getting easier, could probably fit in/manage three sessions a week. Putting on the muscle so looking to up the reps with DL, flies, curls etc but probably keep trying to up the C&J best.

[iain]

Hmm, I'm now starting to wonder if I was at the Cornice Thurs but I don't think I was. I'm sure I met Iain off of here at the cornice one of the days?! Is that you Iain? I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P. What day was that?! I thought it was Tues.

It was Tuesday and I'm being a muppet, just edited my post. Nice to meet you 

[kelvin]

Cheque - used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

*spelling may be atrocious

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[SA Chris]

As predicted a bad week

M - some weights and core
T - nothing - worked all evening
W - Outdoor bouldering. In spite of drizzle in afternoon and high humidtiy we took a punt and had a fairly good session. Left house at 6 and showed a mate a scenic tour of new stuff along the coast. Repeated a load of stuff I've done before, plus a few new things. Finished off trying to repeat an old problem that a hold snapped off, but sharp holds and thin skin meant defeat.
T - nothing
F - Some weights
S - nothing, weather shite
S - very little

Weight 13st 4 1/4

elbow actually feels good.

[cha1n]

It was Tuesday and I'm being a muppet, just edited my post. Nice to meet you 

Hello Glad to know I'm not going mad, I remember that I wanted to go Thurs as the conditions looked so good but couldn't find a partner!

With me I believe!  Let me know how you feel later. I can sort something else out of you're not up for it.

Aha, hi Mike I knew who you were in respect of the film Stonnis but didn't know you posted on this thread! Am thinking that I'd rather leave it for later in the week if you're keen for that? I am feeling slightly less bad now but the weather does seem poor. I noticed that whilst the cornice seems to survive the bad weather, the conditions are still crap if it's raining/been raining.

[nai]

I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P?

Were you there with Dave on Saturday?  Did he do it?

I belayed him on it on Friday, was quite amazed when after linking from about 4 moves in he immediately stripped it and said he'd rest til Saturday.

[rodma]

M - weights, campussing and beastmakering
T - slouch
W - Veg
TH - see monday
F - Wine
S - DIY
S - Wall session: actually feel strongish, but shit; can't read problems anymore, but haven't lost the ability to try really hard for the flash attempt (or post-dab attempt)

[cha1n]

Yeh, I belayed him on Sat but unfortunately he didn't do it. He got through the roof though and fell off traversing the first set of undercuts above the lip. He's refined the beta now and I'm sure he'll do it this week if the conditions hold out.

He's having issues with his elbows atm which gives him grief on undercuts (not the best choice of route in that respect), so think he wanted to have a decent amount of rest. Think he's trying it today with Haydn. Fingers crossed.

[nai]

Yeah he mentioned his elbows, hope he gets it done.

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: St Leonards. New stuff up to V5/6. Fingerboard session after. 1-4-7 for the first time ever. On jugs, but still pleased with that!
W: St Leonards. Finished off some things from yesterday. Short fingerboard session, abit of a campus and did a bunch of good front levers.
T: St Peters. Probs up to around V6/7. Made up horrible moves. Had a quick campus after.
F: Rest
S: Alfords Point. Helping a friend try Stringybark Massacre V7. She got pretty close after coming off the top out last week. Didn't get it today but I did it first go and also did a couple laps on Love Gun Stand Start also V7. I then started working the moves to the sit of Love Gun which gets V10. Managed all the moves but the crux for me is the 2nd move which I only stuck once in isolation. Couldn't link into it at all. It's a good prob that I wouldn't mind working on.
S: Alfords Point. Helping a different mate on Stringybark. He's also fairly close but also didn't get it today. I did more laps on Love Gun Stand and tried the sit some more. Couldn't stick the crux at all. So tried Strung Out V8 instead. Its a link up of Stringybark Massacre into the finish of Love Gun. Fucking long (29 hand moves) and hard for V8 (V7 into V7). Fell off the last slap for the jug after the crux press... Then the subsequent attempts, I came off the press... Just didn't have the juice. Far too long but felt very feasible.

Press move on Love Gun. The stand start starts where my right hand is.

[gme]

Mon- rest
Tues- bouldering in works. So hot but did 30 ish problems up to 6c.
Wed- Foot on Campus 8 x 1min with 1 min rest. Failed on 7th rep in second set but as much to do with the heat and my skin as to being pumped. Was supposed to do three sets but couldnt face it.
Thurs- Rings, pull ups etc in works. Good 45 min session.
Fri- rest
Sat- Bowden easy bouldering. Crag didnt dry until 2pm and then in full sun. No other options though.
Sun- Hungover.

Was hoping for a better week but i really struggle with the heat and it was definitely hot. Still got improvement on the foot on campus. I slowed down my climbing as recommended on here but to be fair that seemed to make it much easier and i got less pumped so i am still not convinced. I should have done another set but mentally just couldnt face it due to the heat.
I was also trying to not drink but how could you not have a beer in this weather. Pissed Thursday due to Patta stopping at mine and sat night was a camping get together with t NE lads i started climbing with so was very messy.

[Ally Smith]

used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

If Clarityn/loratadine "just stopped working" it might have "just started working again" - why don't you try it again?

i also suggest you stop OD'ing on one type of anti-histimine; try a combination of anti-histimines instead of just taking more of the same e.g. Cetrizine +  Loratadine?

Worth checking exactly which version of Loratadine you were taking - the original went off patent in 2002 and generic versions became available (i.e. not branded "Clarityn")

Since then "Neo Clarityn" (desloratadine) has become available, which is the active metabolite of loratadine. This could work for you still?

Normal caveats apply - i'm an industrial chemist, not a high street pharmacist!

[cha1n]

Get to the doctors and get on fexofenadine hydrochloride (Telfast). I'm on the max dose (180mg) and I wouldn't be able to function as a normal(ish) human being without it.

[Sasquatch]

2 weeks due to biking trip to Whitehorse, CA

Week 1
M- Test boulder session to see how shoulder was doing.  Seemed OK, flashed all new stuff in gym.
T-nothing
W-Short campus session-not great, but was not motivated and didn't expect much.
Th-14.5 Hours driving
F-Nothing (wife biking)
S-Nothing (wife biking)
S-7 hr mtn ride, 31 miles and 5500 vertical feet.  did not bring enough food, so was drained by the end.  Fun though.

Week 2
M-Short riding day in Carcross with a couple of car shuttle runs (weather kept the ladies from a longer ride). 
T- Short riding day in Carcross Ladies did their loop this day.
W-3 hr AM mtn ride, then 13.5 hr drive.
Th- family stuff
F- family stuff
S- family stuff
S-Big unexpected day outside.  sunny and hot   did 20 new problems - with 4 new FA's for the day - v7, v8, v9, and v10.   

Super excited for the coming week.  If the weather holds, i'll be getting two solid days out.

[kelvin]

Normal caveats apply - i'm an industrial chemist, not a high street pharmacist!

Cheers Ally - just picked up some loratadine and then saw your post, so I'll have a go at having one of each and see how it goes.

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers (slow but steady progress on all counts here)
MTG: 7C this winter/bouldering season

M: short indoor bouldering session and then physio/climbing coach assessment which was really interesting.  Leaving aside finger injuries and rehab, the conclusion was that I have very weak deep core stabilisers, transverse abdominis and pelvic floor muscles and improving though still not great scapular stability. so lots to work on from an injury prevention point of view.
T. shoulder stability/rest after three days on
W. gym for first time in about 10 years. established a sort of baseline for future training, I'm hoping to get to the gym once a week from now on. I've apparently not got the proto-typical climbers weaknesses, ie my bench and overhead presses are pretty good but my deadlifting is not.
T. still destroyed from the gym but went to the wall anyway and just didn't try very hard or anything tweaky.
F.
S. a bit of trad, did two new E2s os at a nice venue plus some easier stuff. Lots of faffing and unnecessary fussing over gear meant these felt a lot more difficult than they should. This year it's taking me ages to get my head in order for trad climbing for some reason.
S. outdoor bouldering, not much done except one 6C which I'd failed on repeatedly years ago. nice feeling to get it done despite not climbing terribly well on the day.

Quite a good week, I've almost been doing proper climbing for the first time in a while. The major injury concern, a2, is getting a lot better and can now take moderate static loads. It was interesting getting the assessment done and made me aware of problems/muscles I was totally unaware of. However I'm still uncertain on how to make sure I'm properly engaging my core when climbing. I can do it on easy stuff when I've time to consciously think through the moves but as soon as I start to try hard that all goes out the window. Not to say I don't know the answer in some sense, ie practice and patience.

[shurt]

STG: get some good probs done in the Peak
MTG: as before 
LTG:see above

Not good training week. No climbing indoors or out. No fingerboarding. A write off. No heavy drinking to fill this empty hole which was good. Off to the Peak later this week avec famille so am looking forward to that and hopefully will get some milage in. Am about 20 mins from Robin Hoods or Roaches - I like them both.
Whats Rowtor Rocks like anyone? Never been but looks ok if not a mantle fest in the guidebook.

[HazelR]

used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

If Clarityn/loratadine "just stopped working" it might have "just started working again" - why don't you try it again?

Picked up some loratadine a few weeks ago in desperation having been unable to find Beconase in the available shops. I'd stopped taking it years ago as it didn't work anymore - it now seems to work just fine again. Cetirizine knocks me sideways, not really an option.   

Not a lot to report the last two weeks, I'm not sure I've actually made it to the wall. If I did I didn't do much. Too hot, too much work, too tired, etc.
 
I've had two days at Wallsend on Realm of Chaos (nice fight AJM, good job), getting some decent links, now waiting for good enough conditions to string it together.

One day at the Cuttings on Hall of Mirrors. Sometimes I can get stood up on the jug... usually I can't, and I just can't figure out what's different 

I think it's just going to be a case of getting through the next couple of weeks and fitting in what I can.

[andy popp]

M - land from US flight. Sorting out shit
T - long day in work
W - there's always work to do but this day was nominally mine to do with as I wished. But did nothing climbing related, just stinking hot and it felt like anything would have been futile
T - sorting out shit, train to Exeter in the afternoon
F - conference
S - conference, train home in the eve
S - knackered, don't bother doing anything

So that's two straight weeks with no climbing/training - and plenty of socialising. Life has simply got in the way, albeit in very good ways. Could I have done at least something this week? Probably (not probably, but 'yes'), but I doubt it would have made much difference. Obviously I could/should have written 'nothing' but it seemed worth thinking about the balance between life and climbing. The one upside is that I never really put any weight on.

And now its raining ...

[nai]

Whats Rowtor Rocks like anyone? Never been but looks ok if not a mantle fest in the guidebook.

Not sure it'd be my first choice of summer grit venue. More limited than the Roaches or RHS, quite sheltered so could be midgy and/or shady, never been in summer so not sure.  Quite an interesting place though, sure younger kids would enjoy exploring for an hour or so and apparently the pub does really good food so could be an excuse to have a quick look.

[tomtom]

used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

If Clarityn/loratadine "just stopped working" it might have "just started working again" - why don't you try it again?

Picked up some loratadine a few weeks ago in desperation having been unable to find Beconase in the available shops. I'd stopped taking it years ago as it didn't work anymore - it now seems to work just fine again. Cetirizine knocks me sideways, not really an option.   

Not a lot to report the last two weeks, I'm not sure I've actually made it to the wall. If I did I didn't do much. Too hot, too much work, too tired, etc.
 
I've had two days at Wallsend on Realm of Chaos (nice fight AJM, good job), getting some decent links, now waiting for good enough conditions to string it together.

One day at the Cuttings on Hall of Mirrors. Sometimes I can get stood up on the jug... usually I can't, and I just can't figure out what's different 

I think it's just going to be a case of getting through the next couple of weeks and fitting in what I can.

Beconase seems to be stocked in most Tesco Metro's if you're ever short on some.. (Found by my own running out scrambles for the next fix..)

[petejh]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond proj 8a/+; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.

Pottering easy base week. Another to follow with some strength mixed in. Enjoying the shuffling.

Pete - I'm intrigued. Given that Diamond season starts potentially 2 or 3 weeks from now, the Brute is a PE route and you have a cut off date of 6 Sept, I would have thought you'd be hammering the AeroPow at the moment? Then topping up your power with some bouldering? Prior to getting on it. Or do you just intend to get fit on the route? It's a lot longer than the Oak, isn't it i.e. the endurance end of PE?

Yep, Diamond season starts around July 25th, depending on exactly when the Kittiwake colony departs for distant oceans. *I'll update on here when they've left (Elfyn updates the BMC site but he was on holiday last year when the birds left).

As you noticed, I'm behind the curve I'd ideally be following for a PE route proj. Ideally I'd have an 8 weeks training phase leading into July 25th, but time's short. Btw, I don't think in terms of an/aero/cap/pow - I tried that language for a short period last year and I don't benefit from this framework any more than framing energy systems more simply by thinking of it in simple terms of endurance and PE with PE on a scale of high intensity/short duration to low intensity/longer duration. It doesn't matter about the science behind the terms as long as you know what works for what climbing scenario.
This is my thinking for trying to squeeze in the brute:

1. I'm on the up, first 8b sent quickly following a proper focussed 9-week training phase in the spring. I'm banking on having more confidence and the physical gains I made coming back more quickly than when I was trying my first at the grade.
2. I'm naturally strong and naturally unfit. I'm already strong enough in the fingers and burl-wise; and PE is easy to train and any gains manifest themselves rapidly. I'll need to train PE on the route and supplement with some foot-on campussing. Leading up to the peak I'll train a bit of finger strength and plenty of power (campussing).
3. Two weeks of base mileage is a treat to myself becasue I haven't climbed anything this year.
4. I won't be trying the route until 1st week of August so that gives one more week of fun mileage (weather..), and I'm blending into finger strength this week; then three weeks of strength blending into power for the last two weeks of the strength phase. Then blend power into the first week of trying the route and blend PE into trying the route. So yeah I'm merging one phase into another and it isn't optimal but as long as I don't overdo it and injure myself I figure I can accelerate the process a little 'just this once' and probably have a shorter peak as a consequence.
5. My other projs are long endurance ('cept the g.orme one, fierce little twat).

[Dolly]

M Worked late. Kettlebells outside when I got home
T Worked late. Did 10 easy routes top roped at the Foundry at lunchtime
W Bulgarian Bag and Kelltlebells outside before work. Didn't work late.  Sat outside in the evening shirtless drinking pink fizz and swearing at anyone who came within 10 feet of me. Had a great time
T
F Played cricket on a full sized pitch with 11 players for the first time in 29 years at Abbeydale. Loved every minute of it. I wasn't completely shit either.
S Ached from cricket. Shed session in the morning. I'd forgotten how hard and how good it is
S Sky ride Sheffield with 12.5 year old. Rode part of way there as well. Surprisingly fun


Another week with 2 much work

[Luke Owens]

M: Aero Cap - 25 mins, Antags and stretching

T: Aero Cap - 25 mins, Antags and stretching

W: Castell Y Gwynt - First time at the crag, awesome place. Went down the wrong death gully on the approach in a storm and rain. Finally found the crag and it stayed dry. Bad conditions but got on Hidden Sign (7b) classic line. Did all the moves and did it from the deck to the no hands half way up but too greasy for a proper effort. Feel like I'd need more fitness to complete the steep upper section.

T: Aerocap - 15 mins - Antags and stretching

F: Chapel Head Scar - Did 2 6a's 6b, 6c (2nd go) and got super pumped and died my death on Tufa King Hard (6c) felt really unfit and not that inspired by the place. Sandbag grades too...

S: Rest - Tons of Armaid-ing and stretching

S: Rest - Tons of Armaid-ing and stretching

[shark]

got on Hidden Sign (7b) classic line.

 

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Bike intervals 20 secs on 40 secs off x 6 3 sets.
Wed. Bike 33.20 miles 2 hrs 3 mins.
Thu. Board struggled with heat just did laps on things.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board.after warming up just lapped things. Bike 33.20 miles 1hr 57 mins.
Sun. Bike 75.27 miles 4 hrs 34 mins including a fair few hills up to 20%.