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Designing board holds for bottom end PE (Read 2125 times)

SEDur

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I have perused the forum for similar threads, but I wanted to ask you all for your thoughts.

I am currently building a pair of boards in my new home, one of which is 40 degrees and one of which is 30 degrees overhanging.

Having been inspired by the training antics of the fine chaps Pete W and Tom R over the last few years, I thought making myself a proto-copy lattice style board would be a great way to try and get back that 'OMGWTF' super pumped feeling from yester-year.
... And provide something on which I can train energy systems more realistically without the 45 min drive to the nearest commercial wall.

However, I have been failing to find super similar wood stock, that come in a similar shape to the rungs on Tom Rs board (as seen in videos and blog posts).
If I am going to buy some 2X2 and write a CNC program to recreate such rungs, is there something more appropriate I could CAD up for the same purpose?

If the video is to be believed, I need to mill wide, unilateral pinches with a mild incut in the back and a slight chamfer on the edges.
The main questions are:
Are these pinches the best option for pure pump control?
What depth is most suited for a 30 degree board? I need to be able to hold these holds for long circuits, but may want the board to be more than just a lattice board.
Will long bits of dowling work just as well?
Is 30 degree the right angle?
Is there an optimum wood type for sweaty repetitive circuits?

And most importantly, is this a worthwhile concept?
Are there any big flaws?

Cheers all!

Paul B

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Bannister Rail?

Three Nine

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And most importantly, is this a worthwhile concept?


No. I wouldnt. Id just cover both boards with holds. Hugely more versatile and useful for practicing climbing and stuff.

You climb french 7c. like most of us, you've got plenty of learning to climb to do!

Three Nine

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I mean, u dont wanna end up like PaulB!

Stu Littlefair

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Fucking hell. Has three-nine been possessed by JB?

abarro81

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I'm 99% sure that Tom's is banister rail. I'd certainly assumed it was.

cha1n

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Having got stupidly pumped on Tom's board, it certainly seemed like banister to me. I'm not really sure if I'd want to train on something like that all the time though, think I'd rather do foot on campus or something if I was going to do boring style endurance training.

 

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