[saltbeef]

YO I'm off to the land of mono dyno's later this week, does anyone have any knowledge on good problems, ahem routes (main aim of the trip 7a-7c), good places to swim or which particular brand of moonshine is the best...
Peas and glove

[a dense loner]

here's a good tip... ask earlier :D

[saltbeef]

helpful as ever! does no one know anything?

[Johnny Brown]

Mc9toez and the rubber chicken were out here a couple of months back. Totally rated it - "font for sport climbers".
However they're not online so you'll have to seek 'em out fo' beyda

[saltbeef]

fanks love

[erm, sam]

Embarassingly, given my location, I don't know anything about the Frankendjura because there are so many crags they just blur into one. I get taken places by mates and climb, and have no fucking clue where they are because the names are so hard, and the roads so warren like.
However, on the subject of beer I can confidently say that it is extremely difficult to buy shit beer. When in doubt buy the one from the nearest brewery (often the same village, or even house).
Thcus

[Doylo]

I've been a few times and still don't know whats what. It can be tricky to find the really good stuff without the knowledge. If you can stretch to 7c+ Herkules is the one, thats at the big white polished crag thats always in the sun, outstanding route. The beer there is the best in the world. Andy Harris posts on here sometimes, he's the man with the knowledge.

[Bonjoy]

Andy Harris posts on here sometimes, he's the man with the knowledge.

 He's over there now infact!

[Andy Harris]

Saltbeef,

I've just come back from a week staying with friends in Erlangen. As per usual there were dozens of new crags discovered but I'd suggest sticking to the classics.

Your best bet is to stay at the campsite in Untertrubach where you can buy the guide and get the info from locals. 7a-7c is a perfect grade to climb. I did an article on cragx.com which i think is still there but just incase check out the foolowing:

Stadeltenne (great 7a and 4 7b+ in a row)
Krontenseer turm (Chasin the train 7c & Wall street)
Puttlactaller Wand
Grune Holle & Reichesmuller wand (near the camp site)
Generfels (Albatros, Supernase & Top ten)
               (steep, polished and great in the rain)
Barenschultswande (the german raven tor)
Waldkopf - check out Action Directe
Betzensteiner Sport kletterwand
Roter fels

etc etc etc

Check out the beer & trout (Forelle) at Meister in Unterzaunsbach.
Check out the AdlerSchnitzl, can't remember town but it's famously cheap & big.

have fun

Andy

[saltbeef]

word up cats, this place is the shizza! i'll be back, with twice as much power!

[saltbeef]

sans car will make life tres difficile. the crags are spread over an area the size of the peak. i'm sure it would be possible on the bus but... that'd be pretty time consuming and i have no idea about it seing as i have a car. it is really good if you like routes. so much to go at.

[Paz]

Is it really -all- knickers pockets?  Id still go for the beer but some crimps would be nice.

[saltbeef]

thats a rumour. there are lots of pockets but it is varied. i like a true gritstoner open handed  a crimp or two. it is really good. not all short and power, some long some scary!!!

[erm, sam]

you can rent cars pretty cheap from nuernberg airport, 20-40 mins drive from frankenkranken. Via carhire4less or some such.

[erm, sam]

I was having a look at this website earlier: http://www.climb.frankenjura.com
it seems really usefull way to find out about crags here. Searchable and thourogh, and mostly in english, I think...

[erm, sam]

air berlin  flies from stanstead to Nurnberg. Not bucket bargin baseement cheap, but can be not bad.
If possibel, even if it costs a bit more, fly to Nurnberg. It is a half hour drive to the Frankenjura from there, where as it is maybe 2 hours from frankfurt, and the airport is small and easy. You could be climbing an hour after your plane landed, if you were lucky.