[Doylo]

I wouldn't include traverses.

[shark]

Stew Watson did Mordor in 2009 though presumably has done another qualifying ascent since.

Looking at his blog Stew did the second ascent of Jakob Schubert's One Night Stand graded hard 8c+ in 2013

[a dense loner]

We're not having traverses for gods sake

[Duma]

not even the traverse of the gods(sake)?

[abarro81]

Onlyhardest route sharpholds, otherwise the list will be endless. I'd say no to traverses.

[dave]

Traverses aren't sport routes.

[Kingy]

I believe the locals give welcome to tijuina 8c for the old direct way on the crux and a new easier variant looping out left to avoid the original crux has been christened tijuinita. I thought cry freedom was 8c now based on recent consensus and went in the new guide as such. Also apparently leachy gave it 8c initially but was persuaded by sandbaggers of the day to give it 8b+, the kneebar doesn't make as much of a diff as on mecca, to me at least.

[shark]

the kneebar doesn't make as much of a diff as on mecca, to me at least.

Yes - we thrashed that one out here so 8b+ for Mecca until the new BMC definitive guide comes out in 2035

Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

Ally can you update the list?

[gme]

I dont think kingy was commenting on the mecca kneebar, i am guessing there is now one on Cry freedom.

I wasnt aware it had been upgraded in the new guide, another long standing route with multiple repeats confirming the grade gets upgraded. I blame the EU.

Gresham did the 8b+ version of Tijuana so needs moving in the list. No idea about Ed, i would have thought he has done more 8cs ( in fact i would have thought he would have climbed harder than that).

I really thought the list would have been in the multiple of 100s. No idea how many people climb in UK but it must be 100k so not even .001%. I guess 8b+ is still pretty elite.

[abarro81]

Ed's done quite a few 8cs so stays on the list. Tiger cat (Australia) is his last one IIRC. Think most people climb Tijuana with the LH start, now seems to be given 8b+.

Cry Freedom - I was told that the crimp on the top crux was better back in the day, then got worse, then got slightly better again but still worse than it originally was. No idea of the veracity of any of these claims. I've done easier 8cs, but then I've done harder 8b+s.. It also felt like 8c when I was trying it but 8b+ when I did it... So who knows what grade it should get?

[petejh]

I really thought the list would have been in the multiple of 100s. No idea how many people climb in UK but it must be 100k so not even .001%. I guess 8b+ is still pretty elite.

It must be in the multiple hundreds for all-time. It'd be interesting to see that list too but who's gonna compile it...

[Duma]

Least surprising post ever by gme...

[SA Chris]

It must be in the multiple hundreds for all-time. It'd be interesting to see that list too but who's gonna compile it...

Well the grade has only been in existence since the mid 80s, so can't be that many in the first 5 years at least.

[Ally Smith]

Ally can you update the list?

Yes, but i ain't gonna go compiling an all time list!

9a & beyond
Steve Mcclure, Batman, 9a/+, Malham
Tom Bolger, Cuidad de dios, 9a/+, Era Vella

Stevie Haston, Hugh, Vallee des Eaux Claires.
Alex Barrows, Era Vella, Margalef
Jordan Buys, Rainshadow, Malham
Ben Moon, Rainshadow, Malham
James McHaffie, Big Bang, LPT

Dave Macleod, Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a, Steall Hut Crag
James Pearson, Escalatamàsters, 8c+/9a, Perles
Ryan Pasquill, Stevolution, Tor & Jungle Speed, Suirana, both 8c+/9a

8c+
Stew Watson, One Night Stand, Niederthai, Austria
Gaz Parry, Supersonico, Costa Blanca
Tim Palmer, Progress, Kilnsey
Chris Savage, Progress, Kilnsey
Pete Robins, Diamond Dogs, Diamond
Neil Dyer, Megaloupa, LPT
Oli Grounsell , Megaloupa, LPT
Pete Whittaker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ted Kingsnorth, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ethan Walker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ellis Butler-Barker, Brian, Anstey’s Cove
Wiz Fineron, Mr Hyde, Ceuse
Alan Cassidy, Metalcore, Anvil
Ben Davison, Eye of Odin, Flatanger
Will Smith, ultimate sacrifice, Gorge du loup

Neil Mawson, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham
Jon Freeman, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham

8c
Gordon Lennox, Dracula True Finish, Red Wall Quarry, Aberdeenshire
Ed Hamer, Tiger Cat, Blue Mountains, Australia
Paul Reeve, Cry Freedom, Malham
Robbie Phillips, Especio Tempo, Costa Blanca
Tom Newberry, Deathstar, Cheddar
Tom Randall, Cobra Crack, Squamish
Ben Bransby, The Beast, Diamond
Jon Clark, Mecca Ext, Tor
Matt Donnelly, Mecca Ext, Tor
Stuart Littlefair, Mecca Ext, Tor
Dave McLoughlin, Hajj, Tor
Matt Pickles, True North, Kilnsey
John Maskell, Fisheye, Oliana
Bob Hickish, Endeavor, Dorset
Robin Sutton, True North, Malham
Buster Martin, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Jeeworth, Bat Route, Malham
Richard Waterton, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Harrison, Bat Route, Malham
William Bosi, Transform, Malham
Steve Dunning, Cry of freedom, Malham
Adam Jeffs, Cry of freedom, Malham
Mike Grey, True north, Kilnsey
Rob Napier, Bat Route, Malham
Sam Whittaker, Bat Route, Malham
Aidrian Baxter, Kalandraka, Rodellar
Tim Emmett, Captain America, Chekamus Canyon

Ben West, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove
Jim Pope, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove

8b+
Dave “Prof” Pickford, Helvetia (LH swerve), 8b+, Shipwreck Cove
Adam Hocking, El Club de la Lucha, Costa Blanca
Neil Gresham, Welcome to Tijuana (LH start), Rodellar
Niall McNair, Mal de Isla, Chulilla
Dave Redpath, Aqua Vitae, Dumbuck
Ali Kennedy, Kalea Borroka, Suirana
Ian MacDonald, T1 Full Equip, Oliana
Gav Symonds, Poppy, Anstey’s Cove
Andre Hedger, Neandertal, Tenerife
Alex Waterhouse, Tuppence Ha'penny, Anstey’s Cove
Pete Dawson, Chimaera, Anstey’s Cove
Bruno Marks, Unjustified, Malham
Dan Walker, Unjustified, Malham
Anthony Ingham, Unjustified, Malham
Arran Deakin, Unjustified, Malham
Eddie Barbour, Transworld Depravity, RRG
Adam Lincoln, Dr Crimp, Kilnsey
Theo Elmer, Mecca, Tor
Will Kelsall, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Ally Smith, Aspid, Spain
Ru Davis, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Haydn Jones, Mecca, Tor
Luke Dawson, Mecca, Tor
Simon Davis, Mecca, Tor
George Carmicheal, Mecca, Tor
Keefe Murphy, El Club de la Lucha, Costa Blanca
Cailean Harker, Poppy, Ansteys
Gavin Symonds, Poppy, Ansteys
Chris Doyle, Raiders of the Dark Ark, Llanddulas Cave
Dave Barrans, Indian Summer, Kilnsey
Mick Bate, Mecca, Tor
Dan Kyte, Mecca, Tor
Ben Heason, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Char Williams, Mecca, Tor
Ned Feehally, Mecca, Tor


Nearly but not quite:
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse was just >5years ago.
Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat was just >5years ago.
Malc Smith, Hunger, Anvil, was just >5years ago. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56373

Unknowns:
Si Moore, Surf Safari, where & when?
Dan Varian, Malcolm X, Cheedale (when in 2010?)

[gme]

Least surprising post ever by gme...

This time your wrong. I genuinely thought there would be a lot more. I wasn't making any pretence to the state of British sports climbing (for once) i just assumed that lots more people were climbing that grade. This might answer why it still gets in the news.

My question re cry freedom was just that. I had no idea it had been upgraded.

I like the list, just want it to be right.

 

[cha1n]

If there's a 'Nearly but not quite' section then Dave Redpath needs to go in for Devastation Generation (8c) which he did in May 2010. Although, not sure if it applies if he's already made it onto the list for an 8b+.

[nai]

Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

are we about to be inundated with a load of Brummie car makers claiming a place on the list?

[Doylo]

Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.

[SA Chris]

If there's a 'Nearly but not quite' section then Dave Redpath needs to go in for Devastation Generation (8c) which he did in May 2010. Although, not sure if it applies if he's already made it onto the list for an 8b+.

His 8b+ Aqua Vitae is unrepeated, which I think is harsh grounds for exclusion? It gets 8b+ in most recent guide and online.

[T_B]

Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.

It's 8b isn't it?

[Probes]

Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

[/quote]

 

Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.

[Muenchener]

I see on the other channel that Robbie Phillips has done Sibergeier. I know he was already on the list but still, impressive. First ascent of one of the alpine Big Three by a Brit?

[Doylo]

Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.

It's 8b isn't it?

Apparently it's a bit of a running joke over there (90s old skool grades). Gets a slash grade in the guide.

[Paul B]

Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.

TBH Probes it's probably better that way before people start taking sport grades for linking non-strict blueband backwards into something at the snor!

[shark]

Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.

TBH Probes it's probably better that way before people start taking sport grades for linking non-strict blueband backwards into something at the snor!

A shameless attempt to ingratiate yourself with the locals