[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest. Only day at work all week because of rain.
T: Crumbly. Soaked. Tried Sushi Train V8, feet skating off everywhere. Did a V3 just to tick something.
Went to St Leonards after. New stuff. Bored pretty quickly. Fingerboard after.
W: Mate's garage board. 60 degrees. Steep... Hard climbing on here!
T: St Leonards. Moon holds finally put back on the 45! Made up a bunch of really cool tricky problems. Not so bored when I come in here now.
F: St Leonards. Short late night session. Moon holds problems again. Still haven't topped one... Maybe they're a tad hard... :D
S: Black Cave, Manly. Been meaning to get here for a while. Pretty doable looking V7 lip traverse of a cave right next to the water. The start was running water and the landing for the start was puddles.... So I nearly flashed it skipping the wet holds. 2nd go, to the same place just missed a LH bump to an undercut. 3rd go, RF felt different but went for it anyway, came off missed pad and landed on rock on my right ass cheek. Instantaneous pain. Had to crawl onto pad and just lay on stomach for a couple minutes. We all decided to leave at that point. Could easy do the problem, honestly felt upper V5 to me. Really should've flashed it.
Rockhouse after. Did a few ofthe harder problems there. Every move and jump down and sitting hurt my ass.
Late beers to finish the night.
S: Frontline. Quiet and damp arvo. Warmed up on some of the usual things then jumped back on Boogie Knights V7. Repeated it for video and worked the low start which gets v8.

My ass still hurts constantly and I can't even sit down properly. I don't know how I'm going to spend all day on rope tomorrow for work.......

Boogie Knights

[jwi]

STG:
Increase strength on two finger pockets, all pairs.

MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging in Taghia in September.
LTG: TBD

Mon: Rest
Tue :  Bouldering in the gym.Did an overhanging white in 3 tries
Wed: General strength programme. General feeling of listlessness. Had a small wound on my pinky toe that hurt a bit in the morning
Thu:  Fingerboarding, two-finger pockets all pairs. Tried to find the appropriate weight to make me fail in 13 s. Foot swollen and a bit funny colour. At 17:00 developed rashes (looked like nettle rash) over entire body.
Fri. Went to see doctor, got prescribed antibiotics and antihistamine
Sat. Did not improve. Got fever late at night. Talked to a doctor friend and mom (who's a district nurse), both told me to go to the emergency room in large hosptial. Spent most of the night at the hospital being prodded at.
Sun. Got sent home 5am, with a diagnosis of unclear viral infection and light bacterial infection. Rest. Rashes makes it impossible to hold on to holds, so I guess I'll have a rest of undetermined length from know on.

Progression:
Weight: 69-70 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5
Overhaning whites flashed in gym: 0

[fried]

Summer's here, time to give up grade-chasing.

M - Rest
T - BM session, hard as I've been skipping my training in favour of climbing.
W - Indoor, bimonthly visit to Arkose, did all the easy stuff, it was ridiculously hot, lasted a couple of hours.
Th - Rest
F- Rest

Sa - I've been psyching myself all week for my yearly visit to Cuvier, I've watched far too many youtube videos. i have a long tick list of problems to work on. I'm going to kill it today.

Arrive late, warm up, feel O.K.  Fail to get anywhere on a couple of red problems which I was obviously going to piss up as they looked so easy on video.

Go and have a look at Marie-Rose, I've been avoiding trying this until I thought I had a fighting chance. Get up to the move up for the first sloper, can't decide wether to lank it or, dink my foot up a bit. The clouds occassional cover the sun, but mainly it was in direct sunlight, bad planning on my part. Go and fall off some more reds, try a nice problem called Triangulation which I can't do. Return to Marie-Rose which has got even more slippery in the last hour or so. Do some oranges, just to top something out. Beaten by Cuvier again.

Su - Rest

Did some shoulder stuff most days.

[tomtom]

Nice Pic Jack - Virus thing sounds very unpleasant jwi

OK, but sketchy on the days this week - and been quite alot of pressure from other stuff going on..  but I think...

M:

Tu: CragX to send work on Jericho Road. Felt good, but spooned off in the same places as before. had three really good full on attempts. Then decided to spend some time working the end section - worked out some slightly different foot beta that helped my balance. But then was too knackered to link. Did the two halves individaully a few times as a work out. Forgot to brush of tick marks and left..

W: Dentist. Replaced a fallen out filling with a white filling. Nice job! Much better than the shit that was there before...

Th: Helsby. Just NEEDED to get out for an hour or so after a fairly intense morning.. Was going to walk up the hill to the woods buttress, but at the last minute swerved right and went up to the little traverse buttress above the hill. Theres a 7A eliminate traverse there I've not done - and after 45 min - it was done. Ramp Eliminate its called - and has a series of throws from small slopey holds to large less slopey holds and repeat.. Happy Tom. Only one hard problem left to do at Helsby for me now... Ron Burgandys Moustache - V8 (is that 7B in the correct currency?)

Fr: Osteopath in the morning. Was amazed at how my thoracic spine had freed up! Said come back in 3 months! However, similar to thursday - HAD to get out for a bit - went to Hobson Moor - where Pillar Face 7A (I think its called that) lured me in a few months back when I was first out after back trouble. This time it went after about 30 min - a two move wonder. Throw for a slot of a shitty foot hold, then biiig move for the top. Good stuff. Traversed some stuff in my trainers (clean of course) and then went..

Sa: Hoping to work the forecast, went up to see the folks in Kendal in the morning/lunch -then stopped at Trowbarrow on the way back. Spoogy conditions.. drying and humid.. Came very close to the 7A+ on the left I was trying the week before (GRR... bottled the final throw then ran out of beans..) - then had a futile play on Pit Problem.

Su: Hoped to get out today - but just didnt feel like it. Back is playing up again - I think I need a new car - driving seems to really set it off...

[nai]

Back is playing up again - I think I need a new car - driving seems to really set it off...

I keep getting this totally randomly, one day it feels strong and I'm thinking about running and core work, the next I wake up and walk like a board for two hours.  Very frustrating.

[Muenchener]

STG: redpoint 7a #3
     weight below 80kg - currently about 82
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine: 94.3%
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

M: Wall, Freimann. Routes 5b 5c 6a+ 7a 7a (attempts) 6c+ 6b+ 6c (increasingly feeble attempts). Pretty weak session, but the left calf appears to have coped with it ok, which is the main thing at the moment.
T: Bike to work 25km
   Elbow/shoulder prehab + mucho calf stretching & foam rolling. Don't want the Mystery Problem to recur.
   During which listened Alex Barrows podcast on trainingbeta and found it excellent.
W: Bike to work 25km
T:
F: Should have been driving to the Frankenjura but rain stopped play. Went to the wall (Boulderwelt) instead and had a  weak circuits session. Failed to match high point on the 7b proj.
S:
S: Frankenjura bouldering. Took a chance on a dodgy weather forecast and drove up in the hope of getting something done between showers. Boy have I been missing out.
I haven't bouldered much outdoors in recent years - if I have time free and decent weather I prefer to get on routes. And in general I've never done much limestone bouldering. This was a real eye opener - how much there is to learn about finger power, body positioning, footwork for which plastic is useless, and on routes there's too much else going on.
Went with a friend who is quite a bit stronger and we were working a 7A traverse. Found it very hard but not impossible, did all but one of the moves singly. Medium term project.
Note to self: boulder more. On limestone.

[nai]

M - rest

T - Stoney. Lead Bubbles Original after failing to onsite the E4 start, don't think I was quite warmed up enough for such savage crimping. Wasn't in the best nick but just scraped up it pumped senseless.  Trad's nails.

w- rest

Th - Malham, started strongly, but then just crashed. Third burn up Raindogs powered out after 8 moves and struggled from then. Tried some easier stuff but kept going from feeling fresh and confident to powered out and unable to hang on in a matter of seconds (wonder if this is down to an AnCap/AeroCap imbalance causing poor performance as abarro mentions in his pdf?).
Had had a fear of falling all day which wasn't helped by another nasty straddle fall to round the day off.

FS nowt

S hour of open-hand garage bouldering.  Again just fell off a cliff power-wise, tried to fingerboard instead but just couldn't hang on.
  2x8x60s Foot on campussing

It's all gone a bit wrong this week, developed tenderness in RH middle finger A1/C0 area which makes crimping uncomfortable, and a couple of tweaky PIPS.  Haven't slept beyond 4am all week and feel a total wreck. At least the dilemma of how to train going forward has been resolved, down to the default options of fingerboarding, open-hand bouldering and foot-on-campussing.

[cha1n]

Slow start this week. GF starts a new job tomorrow so we squeezed in a few days away as she'll have limited holiday for the rest of the year. This means I've had to do lots of training in the latter part of the week, so totally broken today. Need another weeks holiday now!

M - Drive to York from Sheffield. Never been before, nice place. Lots of walking around, lots of eating fattening foods, drove a boat around for 1 hour. Mobile training setup at the hotel (BM2000 on a powerbar) and did 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a half-ass attempt of a core workout. More food at French restuarant on the evening.

T - Fattening breakfast and Lunch in York, then drive to Whitby (again, never been before). Lots more walking followed by more fattening food in the evening.

W - Decided to cut the trip short, so after more fattening food for breakfast and lunch (fish and chips at the seaside), we drove back to Sheffield (4 hours!). 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a few core exercises.

T - Convince GF to belay me briefly on Powerplant (8a) at Chee Dale. Dogged up to get the clips in but it was so cold that I couldn't feel my fingers, so stripped it once I got to the top. Seems very hard for the grade and have had to take it off the 8a list for now as it appears to require a right leg kneebar and kneebars are hurting my hamstring tendon which I tweaked badly a month or so ago. Go to the works and do most of the wasps circuit (up to Font 6C) mainly onsite but a few took a go or two. Out to a restuarant on the evening to eat tonnes of tapas.

F - Lowish intensity FB session and 5 sets of pullups.

S - Climbing works. Finish off remaining wasps then did the wasp on the left side of the comp wall, roughly 7B but hard to tell as I was quite tired and it took me a while to figure out the moves. Two sets of core routines. Shattered

S - Foot on campussing (AeroPow) at the works, 2 sets (wanted to do 3 sets but got there late and had to squeeze in the aerocap). 40 mins AeroCap, actually got to do the last set on the main walls, which was way more fun than traversing the kiddies wall.

Bit of a poor weak for outdoor climbing, which is what I love but knew I'd have to sacrifice things once I started training. A bit stunned at how hard Powerplant felt, made me realise that I haven't got long enough to realistically tick an 8a of that length before my birthday so have decided to look at shorter ones instead. Think hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ? looks short and a little bit of history with it being the first 8a in the peak district (according to a blog post of Steve Macs that I read).

Really keen to get my first 8a ticked asap to take the pressure off and then I can start to have a play on other classics (of all grades) and get the occasional trip up to Yorkshire too.

[AlistairB]

T - Convince GF to belay me briefly on Powerplant (8a) at Chee Dale. Dogged up to get the clips in but it was so cold that I couldn't feel my fingers, so stripped it once I got to the top. Seems very hard for the grade and have had to take it off the 8a list for now as it appears to require a right leg kneebar and kneebars are hurting my hamstring tendon which I tweaked badly a month or so ago.

I wouldn't be too put off by it feeling hard, there's quite a bit of beta to it. That said, if you really can't do the knee then that might be a problem. What moves were giving you trouble?

It's really got to be one of the best UK 8as (think Ste Mac put it at #6), whilst Hot Fun does have the history it's certainly nowhere near as good. Also, unless you're already familiar with Kudos Wall, be warned, any grade there is hard-earned.

[nai]

7:3s AeroCap

Are you sure?

hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ?

now the lower flake has broken it's quite a bit harder at the bottom, probably about 6C now straight after the 7B boulder to get to the break, top wall is about 6C-7A too and is no gimme, quite common to fall off the last couple of moves. Also, the holds on the top aren't very positive, needs cool connies.

[AlistairB]

7:3s AeroCap

Are you sure?

hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ?

now the lower flake has broken it's quite a bit harder at the bottom, probably about 6C now straight after the 7B boulder to get to the break

Yeah, that's the real dealbreaker for me, unless I was doing it wrong the "new" move is pretty ming too. I was feeling optimistic the other day after finally breaking through my block on Kudos but sacked it after trying that move. Besides, there's many better things dry now.

[cha1n]

I wouldn't be too put off by it feeling hard, there's quite a bit of beta to it. That said, if you really can't do the knee then that might be a problem. What moves were giving you trouble?

It's really got to be one of the best UK 8as (think Ste Mac put it at #6), whilst Hot Fun does have the history it's certainly nowhere near as good. Also, unless you're already familiar with Kudos Wall, be warned, any grade there is hard-earned.

Yeh, don't really want to force the leg if I can help it. It made some very disconcerting crunching noises when I damaged the tendon and I'm only just getting back to light heelhooking on that side. Kneebars seem worse than heelhooks for whatever reason.

I've done some of the easier stuff (up to 7B) on Kudos but am aware how much good temps make on that wall.

7:3s AeroCap

Are you sure?

hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ?

now the lower flake has broken it's quite a bit harder at the bottom, probably about 6C now straight after the 7B boulder to get to the break, top wall is about 6C-7A too and is no gimme, quite common to fall off the last couple of moves. Also, the holds on the top aren't very positive, needs cool connies.

Yeh, I'm doing the 7:3's at 50% of my max strength.

I see where you're coming from with the temps side of thing, it really does get warm there and I'm not sure when that section will be in the shade, so could limit tries to cloudy days and whilst cloudy days are almost guaranteed, I don't want to be limited by temps too much.

I should be OK with those sort of boulder grades, so long as I can recover well at the break. Might pop down one evening this week and actually do Kudos as I've only had half-hearted attempts at the end of a session before after trying some of the harder stuff.

[cha1n]

Open to other route suggestions if anyone can chip in though. I think short and bouldering is going to have to be the way until I've ticked my first one, then I'm happy to siege some longer stuff.

I'm Sheffield based, so would prefer Peak stuff. Potential climbing days are most evenings and weekends, if that makes a difference to which wall to climb on. Appreciate any advice!

[nai]

Yeah, that's the real dealbreaker for me, unless I was doing it wrong the "new" move is pretty ming too. I was feeling optimistic the other day after finally breaking through my block on Kudos but sacked it after trying that move. Besides, there's many better things dry now.

Yep, hard, painful and awkward. Yet to link from the ground having done it five times in a row previously.  One session on it and the skin on my right index is destroyed by the gaston.  I've put a lot into this and come so close but I'm not rushing to get back on it.

[Sasquatch]

M-family stuff. in emergency room after daughter fell down stairs, knocked herself out and ended up w 5 stitches.
T-Soccer Game
W-Campus session - New PB stuck 1-4-6.5.   
Th-Mtn Bike-90min
F-Big day outside finally.  Cleaned 7 new problems, sent 5 - FA, v3, v6,v7, and v8.  also s=did new v1.  Worked a new v10 coming off the last move and tweaking shoulder, so no more goes.  Also cleaned and worked a likely v11.  Pretty excited about this new area.  loads of potential for nice hard lines.  Will be very dense for hard stuff. 
S-Nothing/rest, family day
S-2 hr hike w dad and family day

[AlistairB]

Yep, hard, painful and awkward. Yet to link from the ground having done it five times in a row previously.  One session on it and the skin on my right index is destroyed by the gaston.  I've put a lot into this and come so close but I'm not rushing to get back on it.

OK, sounds like you were doing it the same way as me, that gaston is so nasty I don't think I'll bother again.

I'd suggest Free Monster maybe, only heel in that is a big left foot one and unless you're short the hard bit is fairly short lived and low down. Pumpy at the top but I never fell there once I got through the crux. I though it was easier than Powerplant or Roof Warrior for example which are similar lengths and styles.

(Disclaimer - I don't really like pure boulder routes)

[nai]

Hard for me to recommend any routes having not competed any of them, question has been asked a few times though so have a search. Think about your tactics though, like where will you be able to get partners for repeatedly, what will be in condition most often. Tor is likely the best option all round. If you can do the boulder problems there's a few on the RHS you could consider and short chimes is both bouldery and fairly reliable for connies.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[cha1n]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Free Monster looks a bit long (but awesome) but short chimes is on my shortlist.

Never really thought about the partner sides of tactics, think you're right about the tor, always people wanting to go there. I have got short chimes on the shortlist, I'll try and get on it to check the moves out this week too perhaps if it's dry.

[abarro81]

If you have a dodgy right knee then Chimes is pretty much the worst route in the peak that I could think of for you to try I'm afraid

[shark]

11.5-7

M.
T. AM Tor Humid and greasy. Climbed with Karl B. Stickclipped up BM and worked AM on way down. Second go linked hole to clipping bolt but messed up sequence. Third go Linked hole to clipping bolt and nearly got to pull on high left side pull despite being tired. Apres Tor - soloed 7 routes at Stanage up to HVS
W. Late Eve Fingerboard Warm and humid but better when opened the window and door. Some improvement. Still off best scores from March but getting there
T.
F.AM Tor Climbed with Nick C Good conditions and hopeful of a highpoint. Stickclipped up AM and worked the moves. Fingers felt really good especially with the good conditions but lacked arm burl for the crux lock. Two further goes failing to do crux. Apres Tor a Horseshoe this time. Did Shot Your Bolt (6b) but flailed on the two 7a's to the left which I've done before. 2 rest days in order
S.
S.   

[AlistairB]

Chimes should be dry but most sequences for getting to the lip (at least for mortals) involve a pretty powerful right heel toe which mightn't be so good for your injury (EDIT: like Barrows said). It's also very much about anerobic fitness (think long 7B+/C boulder) which may be good or bad depending on your point of view.

Rattle and Hump is 8a and very powerful but I've never been beyond the boulder problem (which is good and well worth doing anyway). People seem to say the bit after the jug is harder than the start. Bear in mind that any short 8a is going to be pretty desperate, I think it's by far the hardest way to "get the tick" unless you literally never do anything other than boulder.

[dave]

R&H after the jug is hard but in a weird gastonny way, its hard to say whether its harder then the start or not. Its comparable, but different type of move. If it was down at floor level on pinches wall it'd probably feel fine.

[mr chaz]

STG. 8a redpoint

M. Rest
T. Got on Free Monster for the first time. Did all moves quite easily, really suits me. Reckon this might be the one for me! Just need it to dry up a little more, still a bit wet in some of the holds.
W. Rest
T. Rest
F. Indoor session at BBC, just bouldering.
S. Second time on Free Monster. Absolutely awful conditions. Some holds now wetter and humidity making it very hard to hold the dry ones. Did all moves again and refined the beta, no chance of making any decent links, hands and feet slipping left right and centre. Little evening session trying Mark's Roof, still can't do it.
S. Rest

Time to start the PE training for the next few weeks and hope for some dry weather.

[webbo]

Mon. Weight 11st10.1LBS bike 1 hour intervals 20 secs on 40 secs off x5 3 sets. Fasting diet
Tue. Nothing went shopping for food as the missus wants to do slimming world diet. Over indulged on food and wine.
Wed. Board really struggled failed on every thing other than my warm ups.
Thu. Board. Did everything I failed on last night either first or second go. Good session.
Fri. Bike 1 hour intervals 1 min on 2 mins off x 10. Grandson to stay.
Sat. Board did a project and repeated several problems within a few goes that has taken several sessions to do. Family stuff. Bike early evening. 1 hr 19 mins 23.12 miles.
Sun. Board easy mirror session left fore finger tip split yet again. Family stuff. Bike early evening 2 hrs 4 mins. 36.80 miles.
Weight mon morning. 11st 3.4 LBS.

[Doylo]

The move after the jug on R & H is nails. Salars quite friendly and soft I think.