[Fiend]

Okay I know one is "politely discouraged" from climbing at Crag X. But, say, hypothetically one was allowed to climb there, what advice do people have??

For example, what are the problems there (all one currently has for reference is the 87 Stoney guide)??

What are people's recommendations??

When would one expect to find fair conditions??

[Bubba]

Edit: Bubba your forum edited the real word to CragX ROFLMAO. Cunning

Nice try Fiend    But I've had to edit your ass....sorry

But on a serious note, it's a place that really can't be publicised. Even though those who are keen can easily find it if they want, it's in a very ecologically valuable and fragile SSSI and I imagine it could easily get banned completely if too many people go there.

And, one of it's attractions is it's rare solitude....

My take on the place is that you've got to be *strong* to enjoy crag-x - it's certainly one of the most high-grade crags in the Peak, and there's not a lot there if you boulder less than, say V7ish.

[Fiend]

Fair enough, I understand!

It does seems strange - what ecology would one be disturbing with the walk down from the top and then at the base of the crag (a clear path and a flat dirtbowl neither of which impinge on the surrounding, errr, surroundings)??

As for the strong bit, I kinda figured that. The info's mostly for a friend (who didn't ask, just helping him out).

[Bubba]

what ecology would one be disturbing with the walk down from the top and then at the base of the crag (a clear path and a flat dirtbowl neither of which impinge on the surrounding, errr, surroundings)??

But you know what it's like, if lots of people go to a place, then they start exploring and leaving litter, etc....

I'm sure the strong boys on this site will be able to give you the recomendations your mate would like.

[hongkongstuey]

But you know what it's like, if lots of people go to a place, then they start exploring and leaving litter, etc....

whats the deal with all the cavers who use the area then? (or used to at any rate - it was them who first showed me where the actual crag was having wandered up and down stream a while looking for it (this was way back just after one summer got released and i wasn't aware of the short easy approach - didn't squash any flowers etc though so no damage done)

however, about the only problems i've ever done there are Lift Off and some  'easier' stuff towards the left of the crag (problems mentioned in the 87' guide)

seems the ability to crimp tiny tiny holds on stupidly steep ground is a prerequisite for a 'good' session there

[Bubba]

As far as I know there was an access agreement made with English Nature.  I don't think there's much caving down there anyway and the entrance to Neptune Mine collapsed last year. I did read of a minor resurgence cave down there too but might be wrong. I guess the caving community just aren't that arsed.

[Ru]

The whole valley bottom is an SSSI due to some moss (I think) that is only found in there and nowhere else in the world. Climbing at said crag is tolerated (but there is no access agreement) as it is above the valley bottom, and the climbers do not decend further. However publicity is shunned as it doesn't take much for people to wander down to the valley floor.

One climber I met at a wall was telling me that he found out about the place, went with a load of mates, found it all too hard and so they all wandered down to the valley floor and lit a fire and dossed out that night.  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:

[underground]

As far as I know there was an access agreement made with English Nature.  I don't think there's much caving down there anyway and the entrance to Neptune Mine collapsed last year. I did read of a minor resurgence cave down there too but might be wrong. I guess the caving community just aren't that arsed.

WTF are you on about? Bit of a sweeping statement innit? -considering that DCA have just been awarded two significant conservation awards by English Nature (one national award for the SSSI Cave Conservation Scheme, and a Derbyshire Greenwatch award for heritage and wildlife conservation), you could hardly say the caving community aren't arsed...

Anyway, there is a formal access agreement from EN cos it's in the national nature reserve.

[Bubba]

Ooooh! Keep yer hair on UG - I meant that cavers aren't that arsed about having access to that Dale for caving, not that they're not arsed about conservation  :roll:

Anyway, after my recent contacts with the DCA, I can surely say that as far as I'm concerned, they can go suck my dick ... and any support for them on ukcaving.com is over  :twisted:

[fatboySlimfast]

WTF are you on about? Bit of a sweeping statement innit? -considering that DCA have just been awarded two significant conservation awards by English Nature

krist, hes now a tree hugging, cave dwelling, blubbing father, work shy, cider drinking alchoholic

[Bubba]

Add neighbour-killing to that list  

[Fiend]

Yes yes that's all very well but it still doesn't provide much information as to what problems are what and whether it will be in condition in the next 15,000 years.....  :?

[dave]

well, you say you've got the the 87 stoney guide, and unless you're climbing 8a then to be honest that tells you all you need to know, particularly with your penchant for tech grades!

also the roof at the far end has a couple of obvious 6b-ish problems (think one of em is in the guide a speckled edd indirect or something), basically span from jugs through roof to poor lips holds, then jugs. the left hand one can be extended by starting down left a bit on undercuts into the jugs. these are the easiest things there.

[Bubba]

And it's a pretty safe bet that's it's wet at the moment.

[Fiend]

well, you say you've got the the 87 stoney guide, and unless you're climbing 8a then to be honest that tells you all you need to know, particularly with your penchant for tech grades!

It ain't for me, it's for someone who can actually climb a bit  :wink:

And it's a pretty safe bet that's it's wet at the moment.

And possibly for the rest of eternity at this rate  :roll: