This is quite powerful and I'm wilting here becuase of this.
Bit vague but... big reach up to first crimp with LH then match it RH RF into break RH up to next edge then maybe RF onto foothold in scoop near bolt (or maybe for next move) then RH again to next slot LH to crimp just vacated and clip with LH crossing under Right Arm a bit out of balance.Its basic and powerful and pumpy so not sure how much refinement is possible and the clip is a bit scary.
I can remember the gist, not so good on the details.From mid crimp pair bring lf high
I had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.
Quote from: GuyVG on June 03, 2015, 10:14:35 amThis is quite powerful and I'm wilting here becuase of this. I always used to think that it was very top end 7c before the tree went. I used to train on it and never had anything other than a v powerful sequence over the bulge. I do remember for the move rightwards once you're over the bulge and getting into balance, getting your right foot out right/below you on a vaguely hidden big slopey low foothold being helpful.
Quote from: shark on June 03, 2015, 11:53:36 amBit vague but... big reach up to first crimp with LH then match it RH RF into break RH up to next edge then maybe RF onto foothold in scoop near bolt (or maybe for next move) then RH again to next slot LH to crimp just vacated and clip with LH crossing under Right Arm a bit out of balance.Its basic and powerful and pumpy so not sure how much refinement is possible and the clip is a bit scary.Matching the first crimp sounds good, was using the shite one next to it.
QuoteQuoteI had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.I've felt around with this, mainly just used it to steady myself when pulling in off the bolt on the dog, maybe it's just from that scenario?
QuoteI had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.I've felt around with this, mainly just used it to steady myself when pulling in off the bolt on the dog, maybe it's just from that scenario?
I gave up, I'm too shit to climb good routes so I'll just climb short things.
it's too shit to waste time on.
I'm way ahead of you anyway, Dave MacLeod says positive thinking is negative. So you need to hate it right?
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.
Makes a difference how I catch the right hold too, I half crimp/drag and wrap the thumb on a small edge underneath the fingers.