[36chambers]

Has anyone got any beta for Exorcist long at Almscliff, or even better a video clip/pictures? (After all seeing is believing.)

I've seen a video of uptown cruising exorcist short, but I haven't the foggiest how one continues into Stu's roof. Do you use the big crimps on DWR, or do you stay low along the lip? Do you use the right hand undercut from Stu's roof or do you bypass it staying on the lip till you get the left hand one? So many possibilities.

Cheers

[uptown]

I've never seen anyone else on this but I reckon there'd be more than one method.
It's ages since I've done it but I'll dig out a vid tomorrow to check my method and let you know.

[dunnyg]

This is much worse info then you are about to get from uptown, but I (vaguely) remember someone doing it, and they used the crimp on DWR. Think it was one of the owners(?) of city block. Poor quality beta, but if uptowns video doesnt surface then it might be worth chasing up...

[peewee]

The way I've been trying it is:

from matched on the demon wall crimp drop LH down to crimp on the lip of stu's then right heel on the small intermediate crimp on demon wall then RH  to the small sharp crimp above where your LH is then drop LH underneath to the LH Stu's hold under the roof, Move right heel onto the lh Demon wall lip hold then Rh on the the RH crimp on stu's then use whichever sequence you use to finish.

[36chambers]

Thank you very much guys.

Had a play on it this afternoon and peewee's beta is bon, it seems so obvious now.

uptown, if you did manage to dig up anything, I'll be more than happy for any additional input

 

[peewee]

Thank you very much guys.

Had a play on it this afternoon and peewee's beta is bon, it seems so obvious now.

uptown, if you did manage to dig up anything, I'll be more than happy for any additional input

 

[36chambers]

A few of us were playing on this yesterday and we've found an alternative way of finishing the problem, but I'm unsure whether or not it's kosher.

Following the moves

from matched on the demon wall crimp drop LH down to crimp on the lip of stu's then right heel on the small intermediate crimp on demon wall then RH  to the small sharp crimp above where your LH is then drop LH underneath to the LH Stu's hold under the roof, Move right heel onto the lh Demon wall lip hold then...

...then go LH onto the right hand of stu's roof crimps, then bump LH again to the left hand crimp (with the RH still on the "small sharp crimp"). From there it is possibly to simply go straight up to the Stu's roof break and finish.



The move

...then Rh on the the RH crimp on stu's...

feels quite hard and obviously our sequence skips this out, as well as the crux move of stu's roof (getting the LH crimp whilst hanging the RH crimp with right heel on the little spike).

Basically, I'm wondering if our new sequence is akin to rocking out of a lip traverse too early and claiming the full grade, or doing Rhaspsody and finishing left at the top before the crux...

Does anyone know what the deal is?

Since this is my attempt to break into the 8s, I want to make sure I do it right.

 

[Stu Littlefair]

to be honest, you should feel bad enough using holds underneath the lip.

[a dense loner]

Good man Stu. Stand up for yourself, no higher

[Will Hunt]

Back around

[36chambers]

to be honest, you should feel bad enough using holds underneath the lip.

Cheers Stu, so reversing DWR, mid exorcist, to shake out at the starting flake is not allowed?? 

If that's genuinely the case then it sounds like our new sequence is the way to go, but without using the undercut to bump the heel .

Rather than start a new thread, could you clear something up with regards to DWR LH. Obviously the big break and the RH sloper near to it are out. But is everything else in? Or in other words, do you have to use the small LH ear hold I've seen people use in videos? Again I've found a sequence that makes it way easier without using the ear and if I somehow manage to link exorcist short I don't want to find out I've cheated.

thanks

[Stu Littlefair]

With all these problems they were designed as eliminates, so if you want to do what the beasts of yore did and follow in the finger holds of Birch and Clifford then use the sequence everyone else does. And stay above t'lip youth.

Having said that, eliminates are pointless, so just do whatever you feel like. Don't worry about "earning the grade" - you'll know if you're taking the piss, and I'm sure you'll climb plenty more 8s in the years to come

[Footwork]

Again I've found a sequence

You cheeky... 

As far as I know exorcist long isn't an eliminate. It seems daft to drop the right hand down only to bring it back up again on the next move. The way 36 chambers mentions still has to use the left crimp on stu's so it's not like you're taking an emergency exit! Also the moves on the link this way are pretty good 

[Will Hunt]

You boys. De-eliminating holds on eliminates
Go and climb a non-eliminate and then you'll know what you've done. Those roof things at crookrise should suit shouldn't they?

[Footwork]

I climbed two non eliminates on demon wall roof yesterday I'll have you know

Those roof things at Crookrise are next after I've climbed the eliminates

[tomtom]

Isn't it chuffer and punter season at the Cliff of righteousness justiceness at the moment? If you're not careful you'll upset the system balance

[36chambers]

You boys. De-eliminating holds on eliminates
Go and climb a non-eliminate and then you'll know what you've done. Those roof things at crookrise should suit shouldn't they?

Will you're missing the point. It's simply a case of the cliff being a perfect weekday evening venue and DWR providing fun, hard, but very workable problems. Sessions on there feel like sessions on the Depot's 50, but it's free and you get a decent view. The full Yorkshire pillaging is saved for the weekends

Isn't it chuffer and punter season at the Cliff of righteousness justiceness at the moment? If you're not careful you'll upset the system balance

Alas, I fear you are right. On Wednesday the conditions were glorious, yesterday I felt like I was in Spain. Maybe it's high time I do Great Western.

[Stu Littlefair]

Maybe it's high time I do Great Western.

Just remember, the break is out.

[Wood FT]

Maybe it's high time I do Great Western.

Just remember, the break is out.

 

[tomtom]

Maybe it's high time I do Great Western.

Just remember, the break is out.

 

Genius.

[webbo]

Isn't it chuffer and punter season at the Cliff of righteousness justiceness at the moment? If you're not careful you'll upset the system balance

This is by someone who was prepared to put their sexuality on the line by using off route holds.
By how times change.