Quote from: Luke Owens on April 27, 2015, 12:56:41 pmSticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.you don't say if you're in a block program so you may have it planned, but don't neglect strength training ahead of your trip. I imagine you'll need a lot of open-hand pocket-pulling strength to maximise your chances out there. Easy enough to work strength and Aero in the same session.
Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.
Looking forward to this film. I hope it's 50 minutes of dashcam driving to the crag followed by nine minutes of time-lapse clouds blowing over the top of the crag, before a minute of interviews set over people falling off VSs.
Good see it had been done and with the clips in such logical positions. Now there's no need to decide between trying to make a strenuous clip mid crux or risking a big lob if you fluff it.
Looking forward to this film.
Careful what you wish for.
>> Pako. Bent arms.
Back to River of Life. Met Dave and Scouse D there avec lamps. Took a while to get the toe hooks to work then managed to link it
Hello all, first post here. Am hoping it will help with some aims for the year.
I still have no self control at conferences with all the free food and booze available... Its frustrating that I can't complete a basic strength and conditioning phase without my body falling apart.
M T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the eveningWT Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great timeF After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the dayS Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the evening
M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more
Quote from: Dolly on April 27, 2015, 10:09:01 pmM T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the eveningWT Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great timeF After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the dayS Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the eveningFuck - thats what happened with me! Went to Hampers Hang with Lagers and then my back screwed up... I think theres a class action coming up against Lagerstarfish bouldering services...
LTG: Font 7bM: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more beers.W: Meeting in London while feeling a bit hazy, then train back. Ticked Ben Moon's autobiography on the journey.T: Deadlift session on lunch. Gradually worked up to a new 1RM PB of 115kg. Creeping towards the 2xBW.F: Cellar Beastmaker session in eve. More diligent warmup, then managed 5 x 5 x 5 sec hangs.S: Nowt much. S: Woodhouse Scar session. Totally screwed up my tactics, arriving at the hottest part of the day despite a chilly morning and what turned out to be a decently cool evening. Did a few things including the world's easiest 6c which must be a misprint / I went off-route, then tore a flapper just above the palm of my hand. Went to The Sheriff but absolutely nothing doing. Left in a bit of a grump.
Sat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.
T sucessful job interview, ...
Quote from: the_dom on April 27, 2015, 08:24:31 amSat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.Also about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.
Quote from: tommytwotone on April 28, 2015, 08:18:09 amM: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more Some aggressive sounding gym session names there!I'm waiting for our local twerk out classes to start....
Quote from: Schnell on April 28, 2015, 11:41:03 amQuote from: the_dom on April 27, 2015, 08:24:31 amSat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.Also about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.I was told by a local that the traditional stand start i.e. on the sloper and pocket, moving to the ball and then up, was 6B (which felt right), and that starting standing 2 moves lower on an edge and sloper was somewhere between 6C and 7A (I think 6Cish but I'm tall). I think this is the same start for Surplomb Gauche. Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.
Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.