[DAVETHOMAS90]

Or,

Beauty and the Beast   

[Sasquatch]

Yes, that's mighty impressive. Would be great if we had something better documented.

Gill's own achievements are all the more impressive, given that he was also able to accommodate so much tinkering with irrelevant gymnastic routines, levers, one arm pull-ups etc. 

What kind of documentation? I think it's pretty well accepted he did Trice(v12), Meathook(v13?-unrepeated from the ground?), and slapshot (broken now).

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yes, that's mighty impressive. Would be great if we had something better documented.

Gill's own achievements are all the more impressive, given that he was also able to accommodate so much tinkering with irrelevant gymnastic routines, levers, one arm pull-ups etc. 

What kind of documentation? I think it's pretty well accepted he did Trice(v12), Meathook(v13?-unrepeated from the ground?), and slapshot (broken now).

That's great 

Any more info?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I'm not sure where this is going, but I'm comfortable with it 

[Nibile]

Or,

Beauty and the Beast   

Ahahahahahah but who's who?

[Nibile]

I'm not sure where this is going, but I'm comfortable with it 

[Sasquatch]

Yes, that's mighty impressive. Would be great if we had something better documented.

Gill's own achievements are all the more impressive, given that he was also able to accommodate so much tinkering with irrelevant gymnastic routines, levers, one arm pull-ups etc. 

What kind of documentation? I think it's pretty well accepted he did Trice(v12), Meathook(v13?-unrepeated from the ground?), and slapshot (broken now).

That's great 

Any more info?

Such as?

http://www.climbing.com/climber/the-complete-jim-holloway-interview/
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/JimHolloway.html

To the best of my knowledge, there's never been any real controversy about whether he did the problems. Trice has been repeated quite a few times now.  And I think Meathook has been repeated with different beta at around v13, but maybe not done
 
I believe the Parish's own Blunk bouldered with him back in the day as well, but I'm not 100% certain on that. 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I was trying to put Joe's achievements in some context. Still pretty impressive stuff in my opinion, world class, probably - if we consider how many other people were operating at that level at the time.

Great info on Holloway by the way - puts a lot of other stuff in perspective too, doesn't it!

[r-man]

On "the other thread" I'd made reference to Joe Healey's achievements, Monobloc etc.

Does anyone know, were there many other problems at that grade in the world at the time? Any?

Monoblock is V10, not V11.

These lists might interest you. http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

[Falling Down]

I believe the Parish's own Blunk bouldered with him back in the day as well, but I'm not 100% certain on that.

He did indeed.  There are some threads from way back that are a goldmine of undocumented US bouldering from Blunk.  I devoured "Climbing" articles from the early 90s when bouldering was first becoming more mainstream by Shermann  that talk about Blunk, Hollaway and Gill extensively.  I guess the Climbing articles are in Sherman's collection but I've never read that.  Stone Crusade has a load of good history too.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Can't we have a little more public Wadding of the gentleman (Joe), or is that just a little too generous?

 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

On "the other thread" I'd made reference to Joe Healey's achievements, Monobloc etc.

Does anyone know, were there many other problems at that grade in the world at the time? Any?

Monoblock is V10, not V11.

These lists might interest you. http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

Thanks.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Monobloc.

Nails, I am sure

[DAVETHOMAS90]

That's great 

Any more info?

Such as?

http://www.climbing.com/climber/the-complete-jim-holloway-interview/
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/JimHolloway.html

To the best of my knowledge, there's never been any real controversy about whether he did the problems. Trice has been repeated quite a few times now.  And I think Meathook has been repeated with different beta at around v13, but maybe not done
 
I believe the Parish's own Blunk bouldered with him back in the day as well, but I'm not 100% certain on that.

The first article there was a great read. Thanks for that. Plenty to chew on!

Check it out, anyone who hasn't read it yet.

[fatboySlimfast]

I'm not sure where this is going, but I'm comfortable with it 

oiled up and raring to go