Just received toni lamprecht list of problems he has receintly done in the arico gorge
Neil,
I did a bunch of (maybe) new problems there in Arico:
1) The first is called "El morro" (around Fb 7c+) and is at the first big boulder (with the stone in the middle and the sad chipped holes above) on the left side of the trail when you enter the gorge. It mostly avoids the cjhipped holes on the already existing route there. You start right of the stone with a sit start go first up and then left into the chipped holes. If you avoid the chipped pockets you get "El morro-direct", which is much harder then. On the backside there's a really nice, but very stinky roof-problem around 7c
2) When you walk on for 300 meters you reach a group of narrow lying boulders. 5m to the left of the trail there's a cool 7a on a nice pocketed boulder. Underneath there's a hard sit start from the very back I called "Chicas mallas", which goes out left or directly (around Fb 8a). Around this area I did a bunch of boulders up to 7b, but I think tey were already established before.
3) In the middle of the gorge you reach a very obvious boulder right of the trail with a chipped 7a-problem on an overhanging bulge. To the left of it I did a problem on small edges traversing into the 7a, that I called "Huevos duros" (around 8a or 8a+). This would be really cool without the chipped holes to.
4) Further up I did some variations on a bleau-esk feature up to 7b, a roof-boulder into the short three-bolt-route (cobines into Fb 7c or 7c+ then )on a boulder (forgot the name). A littlebit further there is a overhanging arete straight left of the trail with a very dynamic problem around 7b or 7c
I hope that gives you enough information, have fun with climbing. See ya maybe on the rocks someday
Greetings,
Toni lamprecht,
So there you are guys if you want some hard bouldering in the sun, with beaches drinking and clubing. I also have more info on hard boulders there drop me a line
