[mindfull]

70kg

No goals yet, except 25/5 a street run competition of 11K

MO:
- AM: 5K tempo run
- PM: Push training: BenchPress/OverHeadPress/DeclineBenchPress/FrenchPress

TU:
Rest

WE: Full Upper Body
- Pullups/Chinups/HammerPullups
- BentOverRows
- Shrugs
- UprightRows
- BarbellCurls
- ReverseCurls
- BenchPress
- OverHeadPress
- DeclineBenchPress
- FrenchPress
- InclineDumbBellFlies

TH:
- Same as Wednesday + Peck decks
- Technique training Snatch and Clean&Jerk

FR:
First Climbing training in a while: 6 routes of 6th grade, all styles.

SA:
Rest

SU:
AM: Slow long distance run
PM: Push
- BenchPress
- Shrugs (because traps were not taxed enough on friday)
- OverHeadPress
- InclineDumbBellPress
- FrenchPress
- InclineDumbBellFlies

All days: alot of mobility/balance/tai chi. New PR handstand(banana): 1m3s.

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting the thread Mindfull. Hope all is going well - lots of gym work!

M:

T: Hoped for dry weather - it didnt happen. Logport wall.. good session in the end

W:

T: Up to Brownstones after it had finished raining.. things were still wet, but I towelled down Groundhog and warmed up. Started playing on Hanks again.. nearly got it first go (slapped past the final crimp/edge).. then did the same again... Had a good rest, ate some lunch and got into balance for the top move (stood right up) and reached for the final hold semi static.. Got it, then decided to sag my arse and fell off.. close again, then just started to put my left tip through

Moved over to Dezertion - bizarrely I find the 7a+ method easier than the regular 7A (lank factors I suspect).. deadpointed to the hold nicely a couple of times but didnt hold it.. By now Groundhog had dried off nicely - and I laid seige.. first three goes came really close - held the deadpoint hold but came off once. Then got it three times in a row. But (frustratingly) once I've got it I'm stuck... one of those can't move a hand or foot or come off.. grr..

Frustrating - one of those days when cup half full I came so close to getting three problems I've been working.. half emty it was a total disaster :D

F:

Sa: Out to Anglezark with Sloper - meeting Rman and others - not good there - so we re-located to Stronsey bank (i think). Set above a picturesque cricket pitch - that could be set in Hereford rather than north of Bolton... views of Liverpool, Blackpool, and the Lakes in the distance.. lovely spot. Fairly good climbing though not super insipring.. however, enjoyed Mirfs arete (7A) which went fairly smoothly.. relocated to another bay of climbs and spent some time on a fantastic 3* arete - before getting bogged down in a very odd reachy balancy slab.. Ended up being a mammoth day (left at 10 got home at 6) and no talk of politics until the way home!!

Su: Meant to get out for a bit - but just felt trashed.. done nothing all day...

11stn 1..

[fried]

Cheers Mindfull.

No 'training' just an easyiish week ready for a week of good font weather

M-rest
T- Indoors, lots of resetting, ticked off a lot of easier stuff. Shoulder/ back/ core stuff.
W - rest
T - Nowt
F - Indoors, tired and crap, more rehab stuff.
S- rest
Su - Canche aux merciers. The place was crammed, Easter and a lot of late week rain, so a easy choice, might've seen some of the UKB massive, but there were so many people .... did what ever problems hadn't already been reserved like sunloungers in Lanzarote. Ticked some blues/ reds. Spoke to some bloke who was climbing directly off the sand onto a blue problem, did he know he was polishing the rock, answer 'so, what?'. Tomorow I'm going where noone can find me.

[Muenchener]

STG: ?
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle-Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Wall, Boulderwelt. Lacked motivation for grinding out circuits; bouldered.
   Bike to & from work via wall ca 30km
T: Hid from apocalyptic weather
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuit projects. Didn't feel good at all, and didn't quite match last week's best on the 7b, but did a 15-move link on the 7b+, and feel like I have reliable, repeatable beta for all the moves.
T:   Alpine approach training: 3 x 40 stories stair climbing w/rucksack
F: High rope course with M jnr
S: Beastmaker. Stepped up my 5A-minus routine to 6 on 4 off (from 5/5 previously) and did three full rounds, plus half a dozen sets of full crimp max hangs on a small campus rung. Good.
S: Half an hour mobility/pressups/core; 50 minutes step-ups w/11kg rucksack. 11kg rucksack is much easier than 15kg - take note when packing for actual alpine outings.

[nai]

Su - Canche aux merciers. The place was crammed, Easter and a lot of late week rain, so a easy choice, might've seen some of the UKB massive, but there were so many people .... did what ever problems hadn't already been reserved like sunloungers in Lanzarote. Ticked some blues/ reds. Spoke to some bloke who was climbing directly off the sand onto a blue problem, did he know he was polishing the rock, answer 'so, what?'. Tomorow I'm going where noone can find me.

Nooooo, just arranged to meet there tomorrow, wonder if I can change plans


Goals:
In Font this week
Spring - HFC & Short Chimes
Summer - Body Machine & Ext, Cornices?
Autumn - Raindogs, Full Chimes.


M -
10 mins Aero

Mega Garage session. Warmed up quite quick and did a slopey-blobs problem I'd been trying for a week for the first time, felt ok having felt nails previously.  Everything was feeling easy so decided to have a go at the last of the two-move problems I'd set at the beginning of the power block on 1st March. Hadn't done one move despite 4 attempts per session on eight occasions. Did the move 2nd go - yyfy; rested 5 minutes and tried from the start. First go my foot slipped off while adjusting on the 2nd hold but next go I completely creamed it - YYFY, Had made the distance previously but been nowhere near holding it.

Decided to try some deadhangs as benchmarks versus the end of the strength block just to see where I was in comparison and smashed my PBs on every grip, even managed a bodyweight back2 which is fairly incredible as I started at 50% BW at the start of Feb.

10 mins Aero (keeping it real, yeah)

T - On the minutes - 3 sets of 8, approx 8 moves & 25-30s climb time per rep. Failed final rep of final set at move 7, intensity maybe a bit easy.

W - rest

Th -
AM - Hour of Power in the garage, lots of problems from the Power block feeling very amenable. Did all five two-move problems, three first go, all except the one only completed on Monday felt reasonable.

PM - 3x10mins Aerocap

F- drive to Hull, overnight ferry to Zeebrugge

S - Drive Zeebrugge - Font. Traffic, weather & shopping mean I don't get out for an evening session.

S - JA Martin is the call. Back sore after two days in car and ferry.  The only thing I really want to do there is Coleur Feu Assis only the Assis bit is wet, not just damp but dripping wet, no way is it drying today. Fortunately it's possible to do the stand which takes more attempts than a 6C should. Do Petit Toi as well though wonder why I'm bothering with a low grovel when surrounded by better things.  Fairly low volume day, hopefully reap dividends for that later in the week.

[petejh]

Sounds satisfying Nai.

STG: Melanchollie (in May) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

Power Phase, week 1

M. Massage in a.m.
T.
W.
T. Fingerboard session 8. 3 x 30 bodyweight squats; shoulder press, press-ups. Last FB sesh of the strength phase and loads of progress made since the start.
F. Core strengthening & mobility
S. Warm-up bouldering at Beacon: 12 probs from easy - font6c+ all os, then briefly worked a couple of low 7s. Transferred over to the Mill for campus session #1. Awesome first campus sesh, feeling good and strong.
S. TRX workout, shoulder press, press-ups.

Feels great to be into the power phase, can't wait to get outdoors.

[nik at work]

STG - Gotham Extension (8a+??), get on Make It Funky???
MTG - 8c, age related flim flam
LTG - 9a, I mean if Barrows can...
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - BM session
T - evening session on the training traverse wall with Doug, did the standard traverse (7b/+ish) 10 times only resting to walk from the end back to the start. Then worked out a much harder eliminate version, worked the moves and then had a decent rest and surprised myself by getting 3/4 of the way through it in one.
W - BM session
T - nothing
F - Day turned into an EPIC. First off in the morning I had to go and get my car from work (due to a works night out, wife wanting a drink, me taking her car home scenario the night before). Was going to go on the bike but punucture issue meant that i madly decided to run there with the dog. Five miles later well, the dog was looking in much better shape than me. Then I had an afternoon pass for climbing. Weather was not great so decided to go and bolt up the extension to a route I did last year. Load up the car, drive to the parking spot then 2 mile slog across "challenging" terrain laden with drill, bolts, glue etc etc... Then clip stick up the existing route, only I don't have my shunt. How is it possible for me to mut have my shunt when my rucksack weighs as much as a small family car? So I end up doing some exhausting and tenuous hand over handing up the rope whilst gri-gri frigging up steeply overhanging, wet frictionless rock. I then do this a further two times after a couple of "near the top essential tool dropping" events. Then place a couple of bolts through the capping roof in a howling gale before realising I've had enough. Lower down, pack up and then trek back to the car, to find the battery is flat. FUCK IT!! And my phone isn't getting a signal DOUBLE FUCK IT!! Rather than trying to sort the problem I take advantage of the improved weather and go to the training traverse. Sixx repeats of the basic traverse (7b/+) then refine the eliminate traverse from Tuesday eve. I think it's probably hard8b+/8c now for the full link. Did it in three sections. Then walked home (~4 miles). Fucked.
S - Sore
S - Evening BM session

A pretty good week, frustrated by weather, it was good when I couldn't get out and less good when I could. Although Tues eve and late on Fri was good conditions so musn't grumble. Happy, and profoundly surprised, with my stamina (or possibly PE/ancap/aerocap/whatever) on the traverse repeats. Feeling syked and like progress is being made, can't wait for bird ban to end. Probably the most disappointing thing discovered this week is that the extension to Gotham doesn't look that hard. I was hoping it would end up being 8b or above but I doubt it will add much difficulty to the original so likely just bump the grade up a notch to 8a+. Hey-ho, it would be an age related flim flam tick. What a lot of waffle.

[kelvin]

Mon - Rest
Tue - Some easy routes upstairs, knackered from work.
Wed - Finished ticking all the routes I hadn't done upstairs in the coaching room. Then did ten crimpy laps to finish  6x6a, 4x5+.
Thu - Yoga class (hard this week)
Fri - Hungover
Sat - Worked
Sun - Stanage, Causeway crags.

Today was an odd day. Did cracks mostly, lots of them wet. Slipped off a 5a when pretty low but jarred the knee bad, jumped straight back on - committed to an off balance ledge higher up with a soaking wet 2 finger jam and no decent gear. Placed a piece (it was crap) and then promptly peeled off, the shit gear ripped, belayer saved my arse about a foot from the floor. My feet had been about 6m up... it felt like one of those days to be honest. Had a break and some food whilst waiting for another mate to turn up, set to again with not much enthusiasm and climbed as well as I ever have on grit before. It just felt easy - as it should on 5a routes, I was glad I'd stuck at it.

Roll on Thursday and a flight to Spain. Bolts and edges. Ahhhhh.

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7. Done! Drop down to sub 80kg. Done! The Trance
MTG: V8. Sub 75kg.
LTG: V11

M: Sunnyside. Warmed up campussing on a V5 and a V11. Then did some moves on a V14. Spotted Megos on everything. Not a bad session. V11, V13 and 2nd ascent of a V14. Impressive to watch. He struggled on the V14.
T: St Leonards. Usual stuff up to V5/6. Abit of campussing and fingerboarding then into the gym for a short session. Chest press, overhead pull down, leg raises, ab roller, rotator cuff stuff, abit of core work.
W: Rest.
T: Work in AM then drove down to Nowra. DWS in the evening. Great conditions. Moves felt great, felt nice and light. Smooth lock barely a smidgen short of the sloper. Probably won't be back before it gets too cold, leave it for another few months I think.
F: Weather abit poo. Trekked through the bush, found a new crag, rediscovered an old one, stopped by a route crag then went to Lot 33 for some bouldering. V0, V1, 4 x V4, many attempts on V9 dyno and V7. Had worked the V7 a bunch ages ago but quite struggled on it. Did from a stand 2nd go (had never done the big last throw), then did it from a sit 2nd go. Alot lighter now and stronger, felt way easier than expected. This was kind of my goal for the weekend and it went in about 10 minutes... Chuffed.
S: Rain. Lot 33. Big crew. V1, 4xV4. Worked a V8, I hate this problem. It's a classic of the crag but its very fingery and quite painful for me. Every time I get on it, I remember how much I don't like it. So many throws on V9 dyno. Couldn't have been closer. Ended up with 3 flappers on the same hand (catching left).
S: Sunny but everything still damp. Lot 33. 2xV3, put up a V2 and had many more throws on the V9 dyno. Not as close as yesterday (much warmer) and added 2 more bleeding flappers. Drove back to Syd after the 2nd flapper.

Decent little week. Ticked another V7 quickly (that will go straight back on as another STG) and dropped down to sub 80kg. Thats 10kg in about 6 weeks.

[mindfull]

Habrich, I forgot to change week number 267 to 277. Is it possible to change that?

[T_B]

87.2Kg

M -
T - School p.m. mainly up problems on the circuit board. Did most of the moves on the pink.
W - Foundry lunch. Planned to do AnPow session on Wave but a bit too busy so just did problems.
T -
F - Works p.m. Circuit board. First time on circuits for a long time. Did the 7a then 7b/+ in two halfs. Good session.
S -
S - A full day climbing with the missus, as in-laws looking after the kids. Headed up to Stanage End in search of decent conditions and as she was keen to try some new trav. Warmed up around Microbe and did a quite cool highballish 7A+ (Little Oedipus). Then she spent about 2 hours on trav, dropping the last move a few times. I walked down to Low Rider. I gave up on this problem a few years back having spent 5 or 6 sessions not doing it and never really getting a decent sequence for the match on the jug. Today there was someone else trying it and armed with newer beta it immediately became obvious that I had a much better sequence to the jug. Just the cut loose to sort. Finally worked out the trick on the crux and a better finishing sequence from the other dude trying it. A couple of redpoint goes then managed to drop the last move (well, not be able to let go of the thin break to be accurate) . Went downhill from there but psyched as have a solid sequence and know I can do it if I can get round to dragging my ar*e back up there.

Better week than last week. Mixed it up a bit and left middle finger less achey than of late. Clearly stronger on Low Rider than 5? years ago when I tried it a lot. Heavy due to mass Easter gorging.

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight. Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt....

Drop weight is not going well....

M - Nothing
T - Lunch PE session, boulder up to v8 to WU, 4x4's at v5, v7/8, v6, and v6. Then 8 x 1 on, 1.25off FOC on small metolius rungs.
W - Nothing
Th - Moonboard session.  Really hard to get going and get warmed up.  Finally after about 1.5hrs, got going.  Managed 2 new 7B+'s and a new 7C, also came close to repeating a 7C+ I did in October.  1-arm training 3x3 at -25lbs.  Felt pretty good. 
F - Eat/drink too much - Friends dinner party.
S - Attempted to boulder, didn't go well.  Felt heavy and low psyche, a bit hungover which ne'er does well - eat/drink too much - Friends 40th B-day
S - eat/drink too much - Easter festivities

I start the week off well for eating right, but when the weekend comes, we have too many socail appts which involve drinking w friends...  Fun, but not conducive to weight loss. 

[205Chris]

a better finishing sequence from the other dude trying it.

  That would have been me. Nice to meet you.

[nai]

Su - Canche aux merciers. The place was crammed, Easter and a lot of late week rain, so a easy choice, might've seen some of the UKB massive, but there were so many people .... did what ever problems hadn't already been reserved like sunloungers in Lanzarote. Ticked some blues/ reds. Spoke to some bloke who was climbing directly off the sand onto a blue problem, did he know he was polishing the rock, answer 'so, what?'. Tomorow I'm going where noone can find me.

Not sure it was so busy today but just about every off off-piste problem was busy or you'd be mobbed by germans or students the moment you put your mat down underneath something. Area around La Grande marche was rammed all day and La Baleine getting so much more attention than those slopers deserved in the full sun.  Ok day though, 3 7As, one felt ok, one soft and one nails so it all balances out in the end.

[T_B]

a better finishing sequence from the other dude trying it.

  That would have been me. Nice to meet you.

Nice one. Planning to walk back up there tomorrow p.m.

[205Chris]

a better finishing sequence from the other dude trying it.

  That would have been me. Nice to meet you.

Nice one. Planning to walk back up there tomorrow p.m.

Good luck. Probably be next weekend for me now as I need to grow some skin.

[the_dom]

Mon: trail run, stretching
Tues: AM: hangboard - one arm max hangs*; PM: snuck out of work slightly early to head up to a local bouldering area - ticked two 7Bish things, one of which I'd struggled with a while ago. Felt really solid. Walked out in the dark. Good day out.
Wed: AM: weights - deadlift up to 175kgs. 2.05xBW. YYFY. PM: hangboard - one arm max hangs
Thurs: rest day.
Fri: Rocklands - new area opened by Kili Fishburger. Hot day so went out late. Started with 3 7As - one soft, one middling and one hard; finished by ticking a really nice 7B. Another good day out.
Sat: Rocklands - Roadside and Rhino. Warmed up and re-ticked Sigi, which is one of the funnest 6Cs around. Fell off Pinch of Herbs (7C) a lot but came pretty close. Tried the Rhino a bit but it's quite intimidating with one spotter and two mats, although I found a sequence that allowed me to campus most of it, which is a little less scary. Finished the day off with Bols Island (7A) which felt proper hard. Not the most successful day out but good to pull a send of something out the bag.
Sun: Rocklands - Cedar Rouge. Slept terribly and wandered up to Cedar Rouge feeling exhausted. Warmed up and donated large amounts of skin to Black Labour (7B+) which felt miles away until one of the moves clicked and I dragged my way up it thinking that was the end of climbing for the day. Walked down to Outback (7C) to show it to my mate and completely surprised both of us by ticking it first go,from the bottom, after about 10 mins of work. YYFY! Good day out.

Good week - ticked 4 7As, 3 7Bs, a 7B+ and a 7C. Ok, a really good week, if I think about it in those terms. Ate badly, but can live with that.

10 days to Font - need to get in a few more days on rock and tighten up the diet massively, but feeling like I'm on the right track.

New MTGs: keep up the training post-Font. Book some weekends up at Rocklands. Pinch of Herbs, Shosholoza, Panama, The Big Short.

* if it helps, I've found that these sessions are short and really beneficial - all they involve are 9 sets of one arm hangs on a 2cm rung, with approx 2 mins rest between sets - 3 hangs each at full lock, 90 degrees and 105 degrees for as long as possible. The full session, with warmup takes me less than 40 mins and is really easy to fit in to the day.

[36chambers]

Apologises for the long one.

STG:
- 7C
- Stu's Roof
- 7B in font
MTG: lots of 7C/7C+s
LTG: 8B

I'm going to be a bit cheeky and do the last two weeks this week as I've been away.

Week 1 (23-29): Fontainebleau. I was originally tempted to go big and gun for a 7C this trip, but after realising I still hadn't actually done a 7A+ or 7B in the forest I thought I'd put less pressure on myself this year and go for a 7B and 7 milage.

Sun: Bas cuvier. First day of the trip, hit list: Carnage, Super Prestat and Noir Desir Gauche. Quick play on Super Prestat and was surprised with getting about 3/4 up. Quick break to play on Carnage. A few friends were trying l'helicoptere so we had the whole area substantially padded, I stayed away from it as I didn't fancy breaking a leg. Anyway, someone had placed an ocun dominator next to a much thinner rag pad and after missing the chip on the first move of carnage I took the 1 foot "fall" and rolled my right ankle quite badly because of the uneven levels... Punter. (flashback to last year where on my third day of seven I popped two pulleys on a "rest" day).
Went to Cuvier rampart to try and "walk it off" decided to get on Noir Desir Gauche anyway , had 3 attempts in which I breezed through all the moves but somehow slipped off the finishing jug. Gutted.

Mon: Buthiers. Cue badly swollen ankle, no climbing 
Tues: Day in the gite doing work avec swollen ankle
Wed: Isatis avec slightly swollen ankle. Wrapped it up nice and tight. Manage to send Dune (El Poussif) as it's all in the left foot anyway. One of the best problems I've ever done . Also somehow managed L'angle Ben's    which since seeing it 3 years ago has been a dream problem for me. Technically now below my normal operating grade it was still challenging and one of the happiest I've ever been topping out of a problem. 

Thurs: Apremont avec slightly painful but not so swollen ankle. The weather didn't look like it would hold out so we went straight to Crazy Horse, did the stand a few times to warm up. I came prepared with lots of crafty vimeo beta but ditched it for the straight forward lay back burl approach. It went pretty quickly and I was very happy to finally tick a 7B in Font  . Waddled over to Onde De Choc, a problem I could barely start last year and was really keen to do. After about a dozen goes I found myself clutching the final jugs and sitting on top with a huge grin on my face .
Two 7Bs in font in a day Although I thought they were both low in the grade, I'm still completely made up as I expected the whole trip to be a write off because of my ankle.
Fri: Homeward bound



Week 2: (30th - 5th) Snowboarding in Andorra
S: Snowboarding. First day ever on a ski slope and on a snowboard, my gf taught me how to attached myself to the board and at the end of the day I made it down a red.
M: Snowboarding.
T: Snowboarding.
W: Snowboarding. Did a black
T: Snowboarding. Beat some seasoned skiers down a black
F: Snowboarding. learnt lots of cool tricks and how to ride in switch.
S: Snowboarding. lots of jumps on the trick slope.
S: Home and sleep.
 Snowboarding is excellent and I finally feel like my misspent youth skateboarding has come to some use. 
   

[JohnM]

STG: Strength and conditioning phase, Bat Route.
MTG: Indian Summer, Kilnsey or Bat Route, Malham
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.

Monday: Kalymnos.  Went up to the impressive Grande Grotte for the first time but it was busy so went to Spartacus.  This was also busy with lots of people hanging off all the routes.  Warmed up on a nice short 7a+ that was free and then a very bouldery and powerful 7c which was ok but not what I came to Kalymnos for!  I wanted to have an onsight attempt at the classic 8a Daniboy but this looked very damp so I decided to save it and try the 7c+ next to it.  I reached the crux on this but then had to bail as the hanger was so loose.  I then tried a slabby 7c but got shut down by the crux.  Then tried a long 7b+ on tufas right of the Grande Grotte but the upper tufa was completely soaking so I reversed all the way back to the first lower off.  A frustrating first day!     
Tuesday:  Went up to the Odyssey sector.  Warmed up on a nice 7a and then tried what I thought was a 7b which felt really easy until the end and I reached some moves I couldn't do.  I eventually did the moves but it felt hard so I assumed something had fallen off.  It turned out to be a 7c not 7b but would still be hard to onsight at that grade!  I then tried an 8a called Sardonique.  The first 20m were so easy I became worried by how hard the crux was going to be.  The crux eventually came which involved desperate gaston moves off polished edges.  I worked the moves, rested and then tried to redpoint it but fell off a coupe of moves higher than the onsight attempt.     
Wednesday: Wednesday went up to Iliada.  Warmed up on a nice 7a and 7c.  The 8a+ I wanted to look at there was wet though.  Went back over to Odyssey and tried the 8b next to the 8a from the day before.  This was similar to the 8a.  Easy climbing and then a hard crux which involved a very conditions dependent side pull.  I could imagine arriving there fresh but still falling off so decided to leave it.
Thursday:  Rest day scootering around the island.
Friday:  Went to Arhi.  Warmed up on this brilliant 7a called Kastor pulling on tufa blobs and then a 7b+ called Eros which had a really bouldery section before more awesome tufa climbing.  By the time I had warmed up the classic 8a had become very busy with people warming up on it as the warm ups were busy and this took a long time as people were frigging the moves loads.  I got pissed off and looked in the guidebook for the furthest away crag with the longest walk in!  I scooted to the other side of the island to Monastery and Saint Photis.  These areas were beautiful and there were no people.  However, the rock was sharp and nasty.  Tried this 8a+ but I hated everything about it.  Nasty moves and rock so I sacked it off.
Saturday:  Went to Galatiani.  This is a 40 min slog up a steep hill so we had the place to ourselves.  This was the crag I had been looking for.  Amazing steep tufa climbing with no people!  I did a steep 7a on huge tufa formations which was amazing, the a 7b that climbed a cool ramp feature before a hard crimpy rock up move to join another amazing tufa system.  I then onsighted the classic "8a" there called Debout des Morts.  This had a hard move on the lower wall before tackling 25 metres of overhanging cave tufa wrestling and was brilliant all the way to the chain.  This is definitely not 8a though and is more like 7c/+.
Sunday:  Went to Grande Grotte which was finally quiet.  Did the iconic classic Aegialis and then left, spent a couple of hours drinking on the beach before taking the ferry back to Kos before an earlyish flight the next day.

I enjoyed Kalymnos.  It had the whole package, sun (later in the week anyway), sea, amazing rock and incredible food.  However, the trip was slightly disappointing as it didn't turn out to be the 8a onsight fest I hoped it would be.  The routes were either wet or too busy.  It took me until the penultimate day to find a crag that was really good and quiet.  A lot of the routes I did or attempted that were free at other crags were either poor quality or hard to onsight due to their cruxy nature.  Most of the onsightable tufa classics in the cave were wet.  Yesterday was shit as well as the flight was delayed by 7 hours.  Easyjet gave us a 4.50 Euro voucher to spend in the 2 airport cafes which had no stock as it was holey Sunday and a coffee cost 4.05!

I feel heavy now after not enough climbing and a ridiculous amount of food and booze  Need to get back in shape and psyched for Bat Route at Malham although it sounds as if conditions have been less than ideal and I can't face the drive from London for soaked rock.

[shark]

11.6-8

M. School. Ellie showed me 4 warm up problems. Managed 3 of them. Went home. Unit cost per visit reduced to £63.33
T.
W. Works. Went with all 3 kids. I was the best. Just
T.
F. Wave. New level 2's to play on.
S. Drove to Font
S. Cuisiniere with family. Jumped straight on Excalibur. Tried it lots but no luck


Easyish unstructured week. Perfect weather here in Font.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film.

MTG- New grades this year.

LTG- Lead anything at Nesscliffe.

Done my usual Back Holiday thing of including the Monday. Seems logical to me. Also means there's some climbing in here as I didn't train at all last week as I was worried about the knee-knack I was suffering from.

M- Rest.

T- Rest.

W- Rest.

T- Rest. Extremely good work news which is a big weight off my mind.

F- Driving to Shropshire. Walking round stately home grounds en route.

S- Walking in Shropshire with my girlfriend's Mum & Dad. Turns out there are hills there! Fell in a stream.

S- More walking in Shropshire. Ankle-deep mud.

M- Nesscliffe! I've wanted to go here for ages. When I first arrived it all seemed unclimbable but it soon dried out and I was able to do some bouldering. Fun fingery stuff but it's clearly second best to the stunning trad lines, all of which I'm terrified of. Nice weather, knee feels fine. 

[gme]

M-  1 hr (should have been 2)Moonboard, Alnwick. Session cut short with the arrival of 15 loud, out of control kids on the Urban sports holiday club.
T- London work. Very pissed putting the world to rights session with Falling down in the evening.
W- London work. very hungover from the very pissed  putting the world to rights session with FD the evening before
T- 1 1/2 hours surfing. 1st time in ages, was OK but nothing special.
F- 1 hr moonboard alnwick. Again cut short by the center shutting early due to bank holiday, i didnt know until i got there, thanks willowburn.
S- 2 hours moonboard alnwick.
S- Rest - eating and drinking family stuff for Easter.

What should have been a good week turned out pretty poor due to work and my shitty organisation. However the sessions i did have i felt really strong, Sat i did all of the problems i had previously done bar one( due to it being too painful on the delightful moon pockets) in a few goes max. Linked the last 7B i have to do in overlapping sections and did a 7B+/7C to the last move, which unfortunately i cant do.
I have not weighed my self but odds on i am back over 80Kg.

[T_B]

M. School. Ellie showed me 4 warm up problems. Managed 3 of them. Went home. Unit cost per visit reduced to £63.33

Yeah but think how much stronger you'll feel on your projects!

[Schnell]

STG: rehab finger (see below)
MTG: 7C in 2015

Two week update/Font trip report here:

I took a lot of rest in the week prior to going to Font. Got disgustingly early flight on sat 28th but we didn't get anything done either sat or sun because of rain.

Monday we went to a rammed 95.2 which was about 50% dry. Pottered around and then got stuck into Retour Aux Sources. 15 mins later nearly all moves done and I go to practice the top out when I get a proper bad tweak in the LH ring finger a2. NNFN. Pretty disastrous and continues my seemingly endless sequence of finger injuries. In the past I've looked back and understood why I've got injuries, sick, overtrained etc, but not in this case. I'd tapered off the training and taken a full week of rest before that session.
Tues: a trip of distinct ups and downs: On tuesday I decide to make the best of the trip and climb easy stuff. We went to Dame Jouanne and I did nearly all of the mauve circuit of 76 problems. It was very enjoyable and probably one of my best days climbing ever.
Wed: went to Isatis. We tried a few problems and I pulled hard a few times scrupulously openhanding, though quite aware I wasn't helping recovery. Ended up doing lots of the brilliant red circuit.

Thurs/Fri: rain

Sat: Rocher Fin in the afternoon after a disgusting damp start to the day. Did a non-fingery 7A roof problem and got close to the 7B alternative version
Sun: Rocher Canon, knackered my wrist nearly flashing a 7A mantle, then failed repeatedly. Didn't find anything else non-fingery to try so did some blues
Mon: Isatis again, did more of the red circuit and tried a few hard things, added a cricked neck to the injury collection, home in the evening

A great trip though with distinct low-lights, particularly the new and inexplicable finger injury. I don't really know how bad it is yet, but I definitely did it no favours with 4/5 days of pulling straight after the original injury. In grade terms it was a disappointing trip but that's not fair given the injury and rain, which put us under pressure to do lots of days on.

[dave]

Challenge for shark, get it down to a tenner per visit before you renewal comes up.