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allez ALLEZ Font next week? (Read 21978 times)

shark

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allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 12:09:29 pm
Weather looking promising after Saturday. Ill be staying in Recloses en famille. So looking to out with just the boys or whole tribe. Keen to get back on Lady Big Claques at Buthiers but otherwise open to suggestions if anyone fancies meeting up to get stuck into some classy problems in the 6C-7A range.

erm, sam

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#1 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 12:22:06 pm
Myself and Sam T will be staying with families in Noisy sur Ecole. Hopefully we will be within walking distance of lots of the Trois Pignon. I will be in the same grade range as you though also hoping to find the 7b that has my name on it. I'm well excited..

nai

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#2 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 12:35:00 pm
Will be staying south of Nemours with a couple families but meeting a mate who's staying with his MiL in Melun, so probably be meeting in the middle most days.  Prerequisites are kids & yellow circuits for the girls plus a blue or red for the gents and harder stuff for me, so likely be Sabot, Canche, JA Martin, Canon/Rocher St Germain, possibly Nainville or Elephant.  Hoping to get back to Buthier for a go at La Rampe, likely day 3 or 4 when everyone else wants a rest day...  Teaming up for LBC sounds appealing if we can coordinate our days.  Also looking to climb low 7s and hoping to find a 7B that suits.

shark

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#3 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:15:22 pm
Hoping to get back to Buthier for a go at La Rampe, likely day 3 or 4 when everyone else wants a rest day...  Teaming up for LBC sounds appealing if we can coordinate our days.  Also looking to climb low 7s and hoping to find a 7B that suits.

La Rampe would be best on a cool day or early start or both. I've slithered off that a few times.

Myself and Sam T will be staying with families in Noisy sur Ecole. Hopefully we will be within walking distance of lots of the Trois Pignon. I will be in the same grade range as you though also hoping to find the 7b that has my name on it. I'm well excited..


 :2thumbsup:

Maybe arrange to meet up on Sunday morning somewhere at Trois Pignon ?

fatdoc

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#4 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:16:16 pm
Usual place at chenou... En familie.

High 6s to low 7s ideal for me and the lad

Easy day at merciers for the little uns to get back into it ( and easter Egg hunt... Bit of a family tradition)

Then any south 3 pigeons venue. I've never been to the "90 s" at all!!!

If going well will try barre fixe and some terrifying high reds that have eluded me over the years

nai

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#5 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:25:45 pm
La Rampe would be best on a cool day or early start or both. I've slithered off that a few times.

Yeas I know, had a quick go on a hot day last year. Planning some early morning hits but that might be a bit far, hoping for a cool day...

Nibile

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#6 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:28:27 pm
I hate you all.

erm, sam

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#7 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:39:38 pm
You can come too Nibs, you don't HAVE to have a family. Though if you didn't have kids you would be mad to go to Font at Easter.

LBC and La Rampe would be good though I feel alergic to making plans. Stops it being a holiday if you have to know where you need to be tomorrow. Having said that a Sunday morning Trois Pignon meet sounds good.

fatdoc

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#8 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:46:37 pm
Yeah. Very much a holiday vibe for sure.

I'll b at merciers on Sunday. The kids love it there. I'll just hang out and have some fun.

After that.. Whatever. Although the elephant is a must visit. The kids just run around like loons. Happy days, first holiday for 6 months.

nai

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#9 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 01:54:56 pm
Canche is a strong possibility for us first day too, been pondering on which area might be quietest Sun & Mon with them being bank holidays without being a massive drive.

Nibile

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#10 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:03:36 pm
Cheers guys, I'd like very much to come. Unfortunately, I have to work. If I'm lucky I'll try and go to Varazze for a couple of days that I will spend chasing shamelessly a grade that's too hard for me.

fatneck

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#11 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:06:37 pm
Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before... Saw Tommy Caldwell en famille while we were there too  :weakbench:

nai

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#12 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:09:29 pm
a couple of days that I will spend chasing shamelessly a grade that's too hard for me.

Moi Aussi  ;D

nai

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#13 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:14:20 pm
Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before...

Good shout, never been either.  Looks the sort of place the male side of our trip would enjoy, probably enough yellows to keep the girls happy too. Maybe after a couple of days when the kids are bored of climbing.

Jaspersharpe

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#14 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:17:48 pm
Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before... Saw Tommy Caldwell en famille while we were there too  :weakbench:

 :agree: Bois Rond is really cool and also a good place for kids. Some nice flat clearings once you go up the hill a bit.

Sloper

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#15 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 02:21:33 pm
Bois Rond is great but I always find the grades on the hessian & silica side of the spectrum, a word of caution I've seen more big vipers there than anywhere else in Font and at this time of the year they're likely to be sluggish and less able to slither away that + kids = high risk of snakebite.

I'm really jealous and can't wait 'til our family holiday to font in the summer: the conditions might not be as good but I bet you'll not be sitting by the pool after a morning on the rock.

tomtom

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kelvin

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#17 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:11:09 pm
Pfft. Spain on the 9th will suffice.

andy_e

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#18 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:13:51 pm
I hate you all.

+1

:)

Nah, Font's shit, the bouldering's crap, the forest is ugly, the patisserie is shite, the cheese is disgusting, the fresh baguettes are revolting, the cider and wine are horrid...

At least that's what I have to tell myself...

 :'(

erm, sam

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#19 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:14:44 pm
We usually to to Canche at some point but I have never been to Bois Rond so would be psyched for a bit of a fresh flava. Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..

nai

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#20 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:23:22 pm
Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..

Grande Marche??  By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.

danm

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#21 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:33:22 pm
Might see some of you out there, camping at Grez sur Loing with a posse from Sheffield from Saturday.

fatneck

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#22 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:40:41 pm
I had a brief play on this at Canche last week, couldn't do the deadpointy move out left after the start move (bit reachy for me) but thought the rest of it added up to a quality problem...

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#23 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:43:57 pm
without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..
I enjoyed this/found it not too bad though I think small/low volume hands make the holds in the crack more pleasant to use?  I agree with Fatneck that Mardi Gras was great and was also pleased to do Parabellum http://bleau.info/canche/11986.html which I enjoyed (mainly becuase I have tried it on previous trips and been nowhere close), though it does involve pulling hard on sharp crimps (I also thought was harder than Grand Marche or Mardi Gras)

nai

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#24 Re: allez ALLEZ Font next week?
March 31, 2015, 03:47:43 pm
I had a brief play on this at Canche last week, couldn't do the deadpointy move out left after the start move (bit reachy for me) but thought the rest of it added up to a quality problem...

check out the style (50s in), complete control:


 

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