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UKB power club week 265 9th March - 15th March 2015 (Read 16839 times)

abarro81

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I don't know what the angles are, but the school room board angle is shallower than the foundry/works, and the steeper angle versions are definitely better in terms of not getting in the way of your legs

nik at work

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STG - trad projects, age related flim-flam
MTG - 8c
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - The wall, new round of the boulder league. 15 problems, flashed 13 then did last two in 3-4 goes each. Hardest set for a while.
T - swimming
F - nothing
S - Outside, had a quick play on project line on a shunt. Found a new sequence that involves a shit mono (yay, mono's rool) but couldn't really try it in earnest as the steepness of the line makes working moves on a shunt tricksome. Anyway then did some easy trad(TM) with a new-to-climbing-on-the-island chap, and very pleasant it was to, if of no relevance to power club. SYKED to get back on the project with new sequence though...
S - realised I'd had a pretty slack week so BM sessioned it up. Unweighted but messed with my finger combo's on the mono's (mono's rool) and was happy with performance.

A pretty steady away week, not much BM action, or hardcore project seigeing but it was nice to get a little change of pace trad action in the mix. But back on the projects this weekend. Also booked car and flights and such like for Margalef in the Autumn. First week of November, the official countdown starts now...

Muenchener

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sdm

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On the subject of Font elbow, does anyone have any tips for avoiding it/treating it (other than the obvious - rest more)? I'm not that bothered as it comes on after every Font trip and has always gone away fairly quickly but it would be nice to be able to avoid it if possible.

http://climbingphysio.blogspot.co.uk/

Plus, if they get really bad

https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/golfers-elbow-a-possible-solution/

On the subject of Font elbow, does anyone have any tips for avoiding it/treating it (other than the obvious - rest more)? I'm not that bothered as it comes on after every Font trip and has always gone away fairly quickly but it would be nice to be able to avoid it if possible.

Hammer curls. Probybly not for rehab, but as a preventive before the next trip.

Cheers for these. I'll add them in to the routine and see how things go.

TobyD

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  I also tell Anna that she probably won't be able to do any of the moves which backfires when she cruises most of the sections I was really struggling on.

 :lol: don't let her near bat route, it could be humiliating.

nik at work

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JohnM

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What does BHAG stand for?

nik at work

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Big hairy arsed goal

 

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