Quote from: spam on March 05, 2015, 04:35:13 pmSome weird logic in these posts... People suggesting that if you can hang 1 armed off a jug then shoulder strength isn't the issue... I have no idea of the physiology of why pull strength is affected by hold size, but if you don't believe it try rock climbing sometime.I have given you the answer, it's a lack of finger strength no weird logic from me, just many people's brains (or egos) aren't ready to accept that their fingerstrength is lacking, even though they have tested it by trying to lock off and have failed. the reason you lower down is to prevent yourself from slipping off, you tend not to carry on applying the power as the grip is failing, instead you back off, it's the same with your feet on.
Some weird logic in these posts... People suggesting that if you can hang 1 armed off a jug then shoulder strength isn't the issue... I have no idea of the physiology of why pull strength is affected by hold size, but if you don't believe it try rock climbing sometime.
It is the finger strength.
Failure to maintain shoulder/scapula control on a two arm hang is not the same as one a 1-arm hang. Dense, one armed hangs are different, and everyone here is talking about 2 arm hangs at the moment.
Be sure to check your words guys, there's a sensible audience out here.
it might be helpful as you need to write inportant stuff in English.
I regularly fail on 3 finger half-crimps because I can't keep the shoulders down. My fingers aren't failing.
Quote from: spam on March 09, 2015, 06:31:20 pm I regularly fail on 3 finger half-crimps because I can't keep the shoulders down. My fingers aren't failing. I don't really understand what you guys mean about shoulders and scapula and all that, but isn't this along the lines of the erroneous logic that 'my elbows go up to the sky when I'm pumped so it must not be my finger flexors that are pumped'?
... on 45s it is definitely core not finger strength.