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De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo (Read 3270 times)

rodma

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De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 25, 2015, 09:13:19 pm


Does anyone know, if this is a legitimate ascent?

Years ago when I tried this I was able to do the start without the heel (which is a little dense in every sense ), and was falling off thereafter, but wasn't using the jugs out left.


ghisino

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#1 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 25, 2015, 10:20:32 pm
you mean the diagonal undercling?

i see no reason not to use it other than a massive eliminate: if that's the case then it is a good candidate for most pointless problem in the forest...lowball, conventional start, eliminate and not even easy!

unfortunately bleau.info is down and 7+8 is in the car.

Nibile

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#2 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 07:23:43 am
Terrible video, terrible soundtrack, terrible footwork.

rodma

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#3 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 07:32:22 am
Hehe. I know it's dreadful isn't it

 It doesn't tell you in 7&8 but they're is a 7a shown just to the left described as a diagonal crack.

Thing is I could do the top without reaching out left, which is why I thought it a wee bit off-route. I'll probably try the heelhook though

tim palmer

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#4 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 09:46:27 am
Terrible video, terrible soundtrack, terrible footwork.
terrible problem

a dense loner

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#5 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 09:55:13 am
Yes the diagonals in, you can't have everything reduced to strength Rodma  ;)

Fiend

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#6 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 11:45:03 am
Terrible video, terrible soundtrack, terrible footwork.

Careful, you'll have the whining forum bitch police ineffectually trying to slap your wrist for daring to post any negative comments on a climbing video  :'(  :wavecry:

I thought the problem looked quite decent TBH. With the crack of course.

rodma

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#7 Re: De Vita Beata 8a, Fontainebleau on Vimeo
February 26, 2015, 12:15:53 pm
terrible problem

[gradewhore] really, i think it's a king line [/gradewhore]  ;D

the presence of the tree does make it a bit weird and it's not exactly high on my to do list, but i can try it with one pad, wont need a spot and i like problems with wee slopey edges that climb out of holes in the ground.

Yes the diagonals in, you can't have everything reduced to strength Rodma  ;)

cheers for the info Lee, i'm not sure the diagonal will help me much, but I guess I'll find out. i wish i could have managed it without the heel and crack though, just not strong enough. it was on the same trip that i did verdict that i was close without any trickery, so that stopped me from looking for any. funny how it goes.

 

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