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Torre Traverse in a day (Read 2138 times)

slackline

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Torre Traverse in a day
February 24, 2015, 09:24:02 pm
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152264757632706

Quote
“Alex Honnold came up with the radical idea of trying the Torre Traverse (http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-torre-traverse-garibotti-haley) in a day. On Saturday we tried despite marginal weather and conditions, citing Tommy Caldwell's motto: ‘We'll try until we can't continue.’ It was still misting while we were approaching the Standhardt col, the first pitch of Exocet had water streaming down the slab, and the ice chimney was in the worst condition I've encountered in the five times I've climbed it. We tried hard though, and summited Standhardt by 10:30 a.m. We cruised over Punta Herron (ca. 2750m) and Torre Egger (ca. 2850m), dispatching each in two pitches of simulclimbing, and started up the north face of Cerro Torre (ca. 3100m) at 7:30 p.m. Alex led an impressive block, largely in the dark, with plentiful verglas, and with wind and clouds coming back in. I took us up the last pitch of the north face, and two pitches up the Ragni route, until we ran into the limit of Tommy's motto. The wind had quickly built into ballistic gusts that were knocking us around. With only two pitches to finish, we took shelter in a protected nook and waited about two hours, half-sitting, half-hanging, hoping the wind would lessen. Finally, we conceded that the weather was only getting worse—the storm arrived a full 24 hours earlier than predicted—and that we had to get off the mountain as fast as possible. In such stormy weather I was too scared to rappel the complicated and exposed north face, so we made an emergency decision to rappel the west face instead, committing ourselves to a soul-destroying march through Paso Marconi. When we finally reached civilization yesterday morning, we had been going for 53 hours with no stove or bivy gear, and I had consumed 200 calories in the last 36 hours. It's unfortunate that we didn't quite get to finish the goal, but I'm very pleased with our performance, knowing that if the weather had held out we would've easily finished within a cool 24 hours after starting. Despite our failure, it is probably the best day of climbing I've ever done in these mountains, and it certainly turned into the most epic experience I've had here.”


Directa de la Mentira, just after putting headlamps on

jwi

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#1 Re: Torre Traverse in a day
February 24, 2015, 09:45:20 pm
Is that the equivalent of not topping out The Ace because there's snow on the top?

Oldmanmatt

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#2 Re: Torre Traverse in a day
February 24, 2015, 10:19:47 pm
This is clearly fake!

The Boulder Bunker is located in Torre.


(note Torre Post office, run by my Grandfather from 1968-79).

The storm wasn't that bad and it took me less than 10 minutes to traverse it.
(I did get damp trainers though)

There was only a little Ice by the traffic lights...

Oldmanmatt

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#3 Re: Torre Traverse in a day
February 24, 2015, 10:23:49 pm
Sorry.


Wine.

 

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