Luckily I have 20 years-ish of fairly obsessive climbing behind me which has probably pre-conditioned my body for the fact that I'm an idiot.
Anybody got anything useful to add?
Only that how you've progressed with fingerboarding is probably textbook how not to do it but it shows what we can achieve if we fully understand how our own body responds, rather than how it's supposed to respond.
The Ondra interview that was posted online yesterday - up to four 45min training sessions a day, with at least an hour's rest between each session and Fridays off. I've heard many a decent climber say it takes them at least an hour to warm up before they even start trying - and that's the thing, for them it probably does. Ondra obviously can batter a quick session out and his body responds. Maybe that helps his recovery, enabling him to train so often but whatever it is, he's worked out what's right for him.
Much like you on your fingerboard sessions.
Very true. I read a blog recently by a guy who trained hardcore including finger boarding twice every day for a month. He mentioned he had 3 rest days total in that time.
Rather than get injured and collapse ( which would be how my body would respond to that) he got stronger and set loads of PBs.
n=1 success. We should all jump right on it.
Re: Ondra's session. I haven't listened to the interview yet. Did he talk about order or type of training in each 45 min session? Your body retains a level of recruitment/warm-up for a period of time, so if most of the first session is warming up, then the second would only need 5-10 minutes of re-warming up to get into the swing of things.
I actually think this ties in with what Nibs talked about in another thread. He keeps his sessions short, intense and to the point, but varies the type of workout so that he's training almost every day. I could see a similar structure for Adam, but more condensed and varied. i.e. doing a FB, then a PE, then an Endurance WO in a day.
