[fried]

M - Rest
Tu/We/Th - Teaching kids in some ghetto suburb, very tiring/ stressful. Manage to pick up a cold on the first day which made it even less fun, only slept a couple of hours per night...anyway as a result I was in bed at 7pm all week and did nothing.

Fr - Still not very well, but did a 45m BM session
S - Rest and some BM benchmarking. Feeling better.
Su - Indoor, did a lot of volume, lots of new stuff to try. Shoulder and back stuff.

Disappointing as I had a plan drawn up for the week that got sacked off. Promising as my bench marking shows a +30% improvement on all hold since the beginning of the year.

Currently fiddling around with my timetable to see if I can swing a day off on Tuesday.

[webbo]

Mon. Cold returns with a vengeance
Tue. Same
Wed. Same.
Thu. And again.
Fri. Feel even worse.
Sat. Still feeling shit. Did a steady session on the board to see if it would make me feel any better. It didn't. Shifted lot of bags of soil for the missus.
Sun. Still feel crap. Ended up doing a dead hanging session and more soil shifting.

[kelvin]

Mon - Rest
Tue - Stanage in the arvo. Seconded some stuff inc Telli, realised that I do have weight transference issues between handholds.
Wed - Started at Stanage. led a crack VS. Then Rivelin due to the wind... bitingly baltic. Croton Oil second, then had a go at Altar Crack. Flippin' 'eck, it's a sandbag even allowing for me having no strength for laybacking. Couldn't even manage it seconding.
Thu - Rest. Proper DOMS from the day before.
Fri - Laxative day.
Sat - Colonoscopy. Could have been better.
Sun - Tried leading at the wall but just did some 5/5+/6a things as was knackered from going 45hrs without food on Fri and Sat. A bit woozy from dehydration I guess.

Really focused on thinking about my balance before doing hand movements and seems I've been making everything harder than it needs to be. So lots to work on for a while.

[cheque]

I'll join Cold Club too. Picked up some kind of headlock/ manflu on Wednesday that's stopped me doing anything productive since then. 

Did a bit of that daft pushup thing to the Moby tune on Tuesday (I think, might have been Wednesday) but otherwise another week of not getting started on climbing for 2015. 

Ah well, in Yorkshire this week and keen to climb at Ilkley (for the first time ) and I'm now confirmed going to Font (for the first time ) in March so things on the horizon.

[Muenchener]

STG: (March) indoor 7a ROUTE
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle-Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: Beastmaker 14 sets. Same sets/grips as last week; 2kgs weight added on half crimps and front two. Also, amazing what a huge difference a few kilos of assist makes on holds I can barely hang at bodyweight. There must be a lesson in that: what a difference just a couple more kgs on the feet could make on a route.
Hammer curls, overhead squats with broomstick facing wall etc.
W:
T:   
F: Beastmaker 15 sets. Plateau? 1kg up on Tuesday on half crimps, but everything else felt *really* hard today.
S: Wall, Imst, bouldering. Stopover en route to family snowboarding holiday. Super impressive lead wall but the bouldering is pretty rudimentary. Did half an hour to warm up then some campusing
S: Family snowboarding holiday, Ötztal

[galpinos]

STG
•   Don’t let life get in the way too much
•   Stick to the plan
•   Back up to previous highpoint, 7A in short order - Not quite there but feels like it happening, 7B with effort

M – Attempted BM: 35 Deg Repeaters - Rewally tired from Sunday, sacked it off after first set.
T – Wall session - mix of problems, fun but not focused enough!
W – Nothing
T –  BM: Half Crimp Repeaters (really good session) followed by press-ups, 12/12/10 - lead to poroper DOMS in my tits.
F – First track session in a long time. Felt it the next morning.
S – Nothing
S – Black Rocks with erm,sam. Felt like more driving than climbing the quest for dry rock. Didn't tick anything but made progress with movement so all is not lost.

[Will Hunt]

M -
T - Fingerboard. Figured out a good grip for back three, still working on trying to find a decent way to hold back three that isn't too hard or too easy.
W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg). 3x3 weighted pull-ups (+15Kg). 4x3 Toes-to-bar
T -
F -
S -
S - Birchshow Crag. Lovely day out. Quite a few new things done up to 6C.

[nai]

Goals til Autumn 2015- 8as galore
Goals to Spring 2016- Brad Pit

M - abort FB session after 2 reps of first set, attic a mingy sweaty mess. New fan arrives PM

T - good FB session, progress on all grips. Weights workout 2 (explosive pullups, tri press, dips, pressups) explosive pullups not so good, plenty of room for imorovement

w rest

Th - Fingerboard - only 1 rest day but it was on the schedule and leaving it til Fri would get in the way of the weekend - drags and chisels were ok but struggled on 1/2 crimps and 35s.  2 rest days needed between full workouts.  Weights workout 1 (weighted pullups, tri. press, dips, pressups, sh. press, lat. to front raises, bicep curl, preacher curl)

F - rest ahead of a whole four days of cranking....

S- bloody weather, only good for 

S- Guided tour of Thorn boulders with tomtom, a dozen or so problems from 3-7A+, pick of the bunch Mothership Reconnection, a lovely slappy, huggy prow and having missed most of two grit season injured my first problem harder than 7A for almost 18 months. Pretty broken, 4 hours out is more than I've done in total since November.

[gme]

Mon- for the first time in 10 years I stayed in bed all morning Ill. Did a conference call at ten from my pit. Dog walk in pm got me moving. Nothing else.
Tues- back to work in sheff still feeling shit but managed to mtfu and bouldered at works for an hour. Felt better for it.
Wed - pm 2 hr motherboard session at works. Still full of cold but climbed well.
Thurs - lunch FB session. PM works all problems on wall left of circuit board ( my favourite bit) up to and including murples ( other than one) so I guess majority 6b- 7a ish. Good session.
Fri rest.
Sat 2 hrs moon-board at Alnwick. 30 probs to 7A. Did all 7As on it in a session which I was pleased with.
Sun - moon-board again. Moves done on two 7A+s and all but last on 7B. good session.
         PM FB session 5/10s. Hard.

Good week despite being ill for a good bit of it. Improvements every session. Weight at 80KG so hopefully under that this week.

[the_dom]

Not the best week in terms of training, and a pretty terrible week in terms of diet. I need to be really disciplined over the next few weeks if I don't want to reverse the good progress I've made.

Mon: 40 min trail run

Tues: Weights in the AM - deadlifts, military press and kettlebell swings. Hike in the forest in the PM.

Wed: One arm hangboard workout in the AM, hangboard repeaters in the PM

Thurs: Weights in the AM - bent over row, barbell snatches, dumbbell fly and bench press; Hike in the forest in the PM.

Fri: Hangboard session in the PM - one arms and repeaters.

Sat: Rest day - tired and demotivated.

Sun: Hangover. Bouldering in the AM - not the best day out, fell off two 7Bs that I'd done a while ago, but was close to both. One arm hangboard workout in the PM.

Looking at it now, it's quite easy to see why I felt tired and off my best on Saturday and Sunday - the combination of a hangover and a pretty heavy training week (with a sleep impact resulting) will do that.

[T_B]

86.5Kg

M - School - lunch. Bouldering, mainly 30 degree board.
T -
W -
T - School p.m. Bouldering, 30 and 50 degree boards. Got spanked on 50 degree - weak core.
F - Foundry lunch. 4 x 10 mins on, 4 mins off.
S - a.m. drove out to Anston in the vain hope it might not be gopping. It was absolutely soaked. Went to the School. Did a repeater f/board session, then worked out a 12-move AnCap problem. Did 3 sets, failing on rep 5 of each set. Didn't time rests, but got completely boxed. Felt like the right intensity. Good sess.
S -

Finally getting over a chesty cough I've had for nearly 3 weeks. No weight loss this week according to the scales, but still on the wagon and definitely feeling lighter. Re-read sections of Racing Weight. More of the same this week.

[tomtom]

Goals: Non creakyness..

M: Work

T: Work avoidance (ie Work)

W: Day off. Almscliff. A good but bleak day (was hoping to head to the NYMoors but conditions looked a bit clagfest).. took me ages to warm up - nearly turned around after 20 min and went home, but a couple of other folk turned up and that spurred me on to keep going... Eventually stuttered along some of the old faithfulls (DWR, Crux low trav, the Slap etc..) and felt moderately alright..

Th: Pah.

Fr: Logport wall for a power hour at lunchtime. Actually, I lasted more than an hour - which (a) left me feeling pretty much destroyed and (b) surprised me, as its only the 5/6th time climbing since Nov.. was MUCH better than the last time I went to the wall a few weeks back.. Valentines meal out with the Mrs in the evening, had to send my steak back and had a row with the Mrs...

Sa: Slightly thick head (not used to drinking after January). Made up for steak and argument by cooking a belting Irish stew..

Su: Off to Thorn with Nai... Always good to go to Thorn - I didnt really get up anything, but came close to repeating Mothership with a fairly determined effort - but then ran out of beans. Its interesting post injury - strength is OK (finger strength fine) - but stamina is no good... Also anything with high heels is tricky for me at the moment with putting any weight through the back. its not so bad once a foot is high, but I'm finding it hard to get a foot up there due to stiffness/pain etc.. Also, Its been about a year or so since I last did those problems at Thorn and parts of them that I found hard - are now not so hard.. hmm..

Gradually getting back - though not as much back mobility as before. Bending my back to get a foot up high is hard, though things that require a straight back (inc roofs/ohangs) seem fine...

A little film of Nai crushing And For My Next Trick...

[ummagumma]

S: Family snowboarding holiday, Ötztal

Some good bouldering in Tumpen, Ötztal.   

Was there at the weekend and lots of boulders are snow free + the sport climbing is good to go on south and west facing crags (e.g. Engelswand), if you can break away from the snowboarding!

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11

M: 10hr day on rope then indoors to St Peters. Really tired, did fuck all. Repeated a bunch of things, didn't really try anything new.
T: Slept laaate... Indoors at St Leonards. New set of problems. Did most up to about V5.
W:
T: St Leonards. Stuff up to around V5. Then fingerboard session. Then into the gym. I'm rubbish in gyms so just did a circuit of 1km row, 40kg front squats, leg raises, shoulder press. After the first set, row came down to 500m. Did this 5 times.
F: Short work day. Finished by 11am. Rest day.
S: Balmoral. Only 2 problems there. V10 with a V8 left exit. Start trying the V8. Most moves are there, very tension-y. Feels tough but good. Will keep working and I will get this.
S: Promised Land. Shitty sandy area that I wouldn't go back to. Supposedly nearly 200 problems here. Fuck knows how they've squeezed them in. Did a couple of the harder better lines. Couple of V5s and a V6. All pretty soft grades especially as it was 32 degrees and the V6 was slopey as fuck. Bleeding tips. Went to St Leonards to tire myself out so I can get to sleep early early... 400am start for work Monday.

[Muenchener]

S: Family snowboarding holiday, Ötztal

Some good bouldering in Tumpen, Ötztal.   

Was there at the weekend and lots of boulders are snow free + the sport climbing is good to go on south and west facing crags (e.g. Engelswand), if you can break away for the snowboarding!

I know. Didn't have room in the car for my mat  Might have a look if there's anything with nice flat grassy/snowy landings for an old skool beer towel approach

[ummagumma]

STG Climb 4 times per Week
MTG Clean & Climb New project

Mon Rest
Tues Indoor Bouldering. Dynamic movement and Power (Mid Intensity). Big holds. Last weeks pain in my fore arm not an issue this week. Pain free  . As an added plus am feeling nicely rested.
Wed Rest
Thurs Indoors Bouldering. Concentrating on small crimps and small footholds. Good Session
Fri Rest
Sat Climbing Project. First time in 2015. Done a little cleaning and relearning the sequence ... which wasted a lot of energy. However could add on a extra hand move on the upper link. For bottom link I could reach last years high point. Didnt try middle link. Went and cleaned some new boulders. Climbed on two of them. Got close on the second. Getting psyched for developing 
Sun Outdoor Bouldering. 2hr session climbing roof problem for first time. Went well. Reached the lip but couldnt control the swing.

Good week but didnt top out any boulders. But feels good making slight progress.

Weight -0.6kg. 72.1kg. Now lost all the extra padding I accumulated last year. Fighting weight is 71 to 72kg. Very happy with reaching this goal.

[shark]

11.6-8

M.
T. Foggy and grim leaving Sheffield. Went up with Ben Moon    Missed turn off for M62 and we took an obscure route thru Leeds to Shipley. Nice at crag. Oak dry. TRed Consenting 3x and led Free and EE once. 4 goes on Oak. Did really well linking hardest setcion twice (undercut by 2nd bolt to clipping 4th bolt) Throw move felt considerably eaiser. Top traverse felt harder - maybe cos trying it when tired, but maybe from problems in left shoulder/neck or maybe because I haven't trained those gaston moves enough. Persuaded Ben to get on Rainshadow. He was a bit disappointed that I couldnt supply any beta but put a call in to Awesome Mawson. By end of day he managed the crux bulge in two sections. Unfortunately he's off skiing now.
W.
T.
F. Grim when I left and grim when I got there.  Drove up on own and met Ash there. We were the only ones (stupid enough to be) at the crag. I was expecting it to be a struggle to stay warm so Id  packed my ski clothes and glad I had. Drizzled most of the day and holds felt damp at times. Consenting x 3 and F&EE x 1 to warm up again. 1 warmup go on bottom section. Next go managed ground to tickle undercut. 3rd go to holding undercut and getting sidehold pinch above. Then tried top traverse but struggling with LH gaston. 4th go struggled on bottom but managed top travese from big undercut to belay but definitely weak in left shoulder. Ash reckons that karmic levelling means that we deserve a good session next time.
S. Eve Weighted deadhangs. Starting a new cycle of this and was hanging at a similar level to previous bests. Did a couple of deadlifts (115kg and 125kg)
S. Eve Lengthy session but plenty of rests. Fingerboard. Bouldering on Woodie mainly working left hand gaston positions. Bit of foot on campusing. On the minute pullups. DB military press. Couple of deadlifts 125kg and 135kg.

Good week. Shame about conditions on Friday but amazing to be at the crag this time of year. First session last year was March 11th and my performance on Tuesday was better than my performance then. Slight concern about the gaston move but felt strong in this position last night. Arranged to go up on Tuesday with Stacked Sam. Hopefully go on Friday too. Was starting to lose weight during week but undid all the good work over the weekend  at least avoided catching Sonia's cold

[JohnM]

10st 4lb - My folks' electric scales (generous I think!).
STG: Stay injury free, Fisheye (Oliana).
MTG: Indian Summer, Kilnsey.
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.

Monday: Rest.
Tuesday: WW Power Board up to V8, systems board (9 grips x ~20 moves, 3 min rests) and repeaters on Beastmaker 1000 lower outside edges (front 3, back 3, front 3 half crimp, middle 2, front 3 full crimp and 4 fingers chisel grip).
Wednesday: Rest.
Thursday: WW routes.  warm up, high point on the 8a+, 2 x 7c (4 min rest), 2 x 7b+ (lower down and straight back on).
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Malham.  Back on Bat Route.  Reclimbed the crux very quickly (easiest it has ever felt).  Close(ish) to the link from the ground to the knee bar rest falling in the final set up move to the spike.  Crux links a further 3-4 times.  Look at headwall.  Skipped set up for crux after rest above roof due to wetness.  Bolt to bolt the rest which all felt very steady apart from the section between the two double undercuts (need beta!).  Could be on this year if I get on it enough and it stays dry! 
Sunday: A damp day in the Peak.  Horse Shoe Quarry (not nice), Rubicon Wall (do all the moves but get spanked on The Sissy on damp holds) and finally trackside boulder at Curbar (Strawberries and Trackside).  Indian food at East and West in Sheffield.  The food is very authentic but unfortunately so are the toilets!   

[shark]

M - abort FB session after 2 reps of first set, attic a mingy sweaty mess. New fan arrives PM

Have you considered a dehumidifier instead ?

[nai]

M - abort FB session after 2 reps of first set, attic a mingy sweaty mess. New fan arrives PM

Have you considered a dehumidifier instead ?

I didn't consider it, no. Probably a bit more than £15 though.  Fan seems to work ok.

 

[Schnell]

STG: get fit as possible for font at easter, don't get injured. 7B in the forest is the aim

M. shoulder stability, one arm shrugs, reverse flies and shoulder press. all with very light weight, except the shrugs off course. (off topic, i can't believe there's no emoticon for to express dissatisfaction with one's own weight, seems like it would get used a lot here.) eve I did an indoor session, warmed up and did the usual FB and campussing routine, four hold types 5sec on 10 sec off x 4 on the FB, then basic ladders on the campus board. good session
T. very short ancap session eve, did a few laps on the circuit board. shoulder session after
W. shoulder session
T. indoor training session, same as Monday and did a bit of shoulders when I got home
F. rest
S. Despite unpromising weather we got out for a very full day. Had a frustrating start twice falling off the mantel of a wicked tricky 6C+ long past the point I thought it was possible to fall. Then couldn't get back to the top again so I sacked off so it wouldn't ruin my day. Had a good rest of day repeating, and in two cases retroflashing problems I'd done before, two 7As and a 7A+, then did a new-to-me 6C in short order. In the evening trying to do some yoga I massively pranged my R.  shoulder which is probably a result of overly assiduous shoulder stability work. By late evening my L shoulder was aching in sympathy so..
S. nowt

Good week of training, no finger tweaks and getting some outdoor mileage in. All part of the Font at easter campaign, I just need to start compiling a tick list of soft steep 7Bs that are even easier for tall, technically inept climbers

[shark]

(off topic, i can't believe there's no emoticon for to express dissatisfaction with one's own weight, seems like it would get used a lot here.)

                                     

[Schnell]

(off topic, i can't believe there's no emoticon for to express dissatisfaction with one's own weight, seems like it would get used a lot here.)

                                     

amazing how one's deep seating insecurities can be summed up in a line of HTML

[Will Hunt]

11.6-8

M.
T. Foggy and grim leaving Sheffield. Went up with Ben Moon    Missed turn off for M62 and we took an obscure route thru Leeds to Shipley. Nice at crag. Oak dry. TRed Consenting 3x and led Free and EE once. 4 goes on Oak. Did really well linking hardest setcion twice (undercut by 2nd bolt to clipping 4th bolt) Throw move felt considerably eaiser. Top traverse felt harder - maybe cos trying it when tired, but maybe from problems in left shoulder/neck or maybe because I haven't trained those gaston moves enough. Persuaded Ben to get on Rainshadow. He was a bit disappointed that I couldnt supply any beta but put a call in to Awesome Mawson. By end of day he managed the crux bulge in two sections. Unfortunately he's off skiing now.
W.
T.
F. Grim when I left and grim when I got there.  Drove up on own and met Ash there. We were the only ones (stupid enough to be) at the crag. I was expecting it to be a struggle to stay warm so Id  packed my ski clothes and glad I had. Drizzled most of the day and holds felt damp at times. Consenting x 3 and F&EE x 1 to warm up again. 1 warmup go on bottom section. Next go managed ground to tickle undercut. 3rd go to holding undercut and getting sidehold pinch above. Then tried top traverse but struggling with LH gaston. 4th go struggled on bottom but managed top travese from big undercut to belay but definitely weak in left shoulder. Ash reckons that karmic levelling means that we deserve a good session next time.
S. Eve Weighted deadhangs. Starting a new cycle of this and was hanging at a similar level to previous bests. Did a couple of deadlifts (115kg and 125kg)
S. Eve Lengthy session but plenty of rests. Fingerboard. Bouldering on Woodie mainly working left hand gaston positions. Bit of foot on campusing. On the minute pullups. DB military press. Couple of deadlifts 125kg and 135kg.

Good week. Shame about conditions on Friday but amazing to be at the crag this time of year. First session last year was March 11th and my performance on Tuesday was better than my performance then. Slight concern about the gaston move but felt strong in this position last night. Arranged to go up on Tuesday with Stacked Sam. Hopefully go on Friday too. Was starting to lose weight during week but undid all the good work over the weekend  at least avoided catching Sonia's cold

I love that whenever Simon mentions "the crag", everybody know what he is on about.

Is there really not a pool going in Sheffield as to whether this season is 'the season'? 

[Sasquatch]

STG - drop 5-10 lbs.

M - 25 minute bike
T - Last FB Session.  in total in 4 weeks added 30-60lbs on every grip for repeaters.  Granted I cam in weak, but ended the cycle at the highest total hanging weight for mid 2, front 2, back 2, and matched my PB on 1/2 crimp and sloper.  (It'd be perfect if I could get my BW would back down to fall levels. )
W -Nothing
Th - Afternoon Bouldering Session, and reintroduction to campusing, felt piss poor on the campusing, but felt ok bouldering.
F-work, then cocktails and a show. Drank a bit much. 
S- VD
S- House work missed planned campus session. Cross country ski. 10Miles of hard hills.