I don't think pullups on edges are great for explosive power. For that you could try this kind of thing: Post ??
For advanced (≥8a or thereabouts) and elite (≥8c or thereabouts) climbers, no of pullups on edges is positively related to ability. I take this as: Do pullups on edges if you are a fairly strong sport climber,
You have met me, right?
. Pull-ups on edges correlates to ability, so let's assume that we want to get good at pullups on edges. We still don't know if this is best done via isolating fingers and big muscles or training them together.
Quote from: Three Nine on February 12, 2015, 12:52:11 pmYou have met me, right?That's why I was suggesting training explosive power Reckon with a bit of imagination you could work out some easier one or two handed moves between holds on your fingerboard/pullup bar station.r.e. pullups, would pulling up really fast (and lowering slowly to avoid frying your elbows) be targeted most squarely at your weaknesses whether it was on a bar or an edge? Based on you looking surprisingly strong when bending your arms slowly on that gnarly Bovey crack the other day, but struggling on fast slaps on Slotted Wall and Red Right Hand.
Moreover, really hard deadhangs are far from being a fingers only excercise. To hang a really hard hold you have to engage shoulders, elbows, bis and tris, and this is a great work, also because it's isometric and mostly done with almost straight arms, with all the positive consequences.
Quote from: abarro81 on February 12, 2015, 01:09:01 pm. Pull-ups on edges correlates to ability, so let's assume that we want to get good at pullups on edges. We still don't know if this is best done via isolating fingers and big muscles or training them together. this is what I was getting at. Obviously training them together is more specific, but specificness (cant spell the other one) isnt the only consideration, otherwise one would never do any directed exercises
There seem to be two views with pull-ups.1. You should only do pulls on jugs/bars/rings so that you just isolate the big muscles, and separately do deadhangs to isolate your fingers2. When you pull down on a climbing move your body/arm/wrist/hand position etc. changes a lot, its not just like when you're dangling below a hold on a fingerboard. Therefore there is value in doing pull-ups on edges and pockets and what not. Anybody care to express an opinion as to the relative merits of these two approaches?
Quote from: i_a_coops on February 12, 2015, 01:19:03 pmpulling up really fast (and lowering slowly to avoid frying your elbows)Interesting that you mention lowering slowly to avoid frying your elbows, studies show that eccentric exercises do more damage to muscles, DOMS studies have shown that eccentric exercises cause it way more than other types. (and presumably other tissue? The reason they are good for tendonosis's (tendonosi?!?) seems to be they hurt the tendons and the body realises it needs to heal the area.)
pulling up really fast (and lowering slowly to avoid frying your elbows)