Quote from: Muenchener on February 08, 2015, 05:06:57 pmM: Beastmaker 14 sets. In the light of recent discussions about "pinkies", crimping etc. I threw a couple of new things into the mix: full crimps, and back two with a massive amount of pulley assistance (-20kg). I wouldn't dismiss 20Kg as a "massive" amount of assistance. I am not expert on mechanics, but I would guess that in a large range of normal foot-on climbing situations the fingers are only handling loads in the 0-50% bodyweight range. In that sense, your -20Kg is already loading back2 beyond a level that they would normally encounter, so it is a useful training stimulus.
M: Beastmaker 14 sets. In the light of recent discussions about "pinkies", crimping etc. I threw a couple of new things into the mix: full crimps, and back two with a massive amount of pulley assistance (-20kg).
Moreover it is unclear to me how much contribution the pinky makes, even in back2.
Slowly getting back into the swing of things. My climbing mobility (ability to get legs high, heels, rocking up on things etc..) is still limited by a less than 100% back, but it seems to have been responding positively to the climbing - which is really good. Another couple of hard work days ahead now, but hopefully get out on the grit sometime mid week for another test...
. In evening saw a link on a mate's Facebook to the ... Managed 'til 1:53, 15 seconds longer than my mate though. Might try it again tonight.