Quote from: Sasquatch on February 02, 2015, 12:28:26 amltg - Unknown now. doesn't look like any trips to smith will be scheduled for now, so To bolt is out for this year. No! Bad news. QuoteSimple but effective training week. Good thing as work drama has been driving me nuts.Connected to the above?
ltg - Unknown now. doesn't look like any trips to smith will be scheduled for now, so To bolt is out for this year.
Simple but effective training week. Good thing as work drama has been driving me nuts.
Su: Decided to try climbing outdoors... went to Hobby Moor - cold, many streaks, but still things do-able. Did about 10 mins worth then my back/hip felt decidedly dodgy/tweaky so beat a retreat home. Despondent beastmaker flagellation. I need to ease my back into climbing within the warmer, more controlled environment of a wall... Had it been good spring conditions it might be a good option outside, but I need to get used to the movement a bit more first...
GoalsJanuary: Max effort strength/power with free weights. Power/Olympic Lifting. February-March: Building base fitness long distance running. Slow long distance running & Tempo Runs. Heal my shoulder injury.April-September: Street Run 11K Kortrijk. Climbing/bouldering/training for God Shave the queen. Antwerp marathon.October-November: Project "God Shave the Queen" (8a)
STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)Fr - Indoor Su - Knee O.K indoors, Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.
January GoalsV8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board - not done. 3 days out 2/3 - not doneLose 2kg - done. Lost 3kgs. WedFingerboard6x6 second hangs. New PB. 1 handed on Beastmaker 1 pad edge. -3.75kg. Some bouldering to warm up + down. Tried to limit it to not get more ill. Ok week - in raw strength i've gone from needing 7.5kg assistance to hang the 1 pad edge for 6 seconds, to half that. So that at least feels like progress over the last 6 months. Didn't boulder enough to hit my main goal of V8. But will try again in Feb. February GoalsV8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus BoardGo to Spain uninjured + stronger than i've been before
Awful week. Felt a bit broken at work for a few days. Stressed and anxious. Didn't do anything other than climbing on Saturday.Saturday: Phoenix Wall (my style, so not really the point); Pinky Traverse (easy finish); Rachel's Box. Shredded a tip badly on the last problem so that's the wall out of the question until at least the end of the week.Not a great result.
Tape up and train anyway?
STG: (March) indoor 7a ROUTE A step forward for me today: Thalkirchen has a lead wall sector that goes up 17 metres and overhangs about 15. In the four years I've been going there I - shamefully, being easily intimidated by teh steep - never had the bottle to set foot on it. Today I did, and fell turning the lip of the final roof. Falling at the lip of a roof is a situation I find mentally difficult anyway, even when it isn't twenty metres up. yyfy. Boarding in fresh snow is a fantastic feeling, and I have been contemplating getting a splitboard for a while now, but I heard on the radio on the way home that ten people died in avalanches in Switzerland this weekend. Five of them on an avalanche safety training course. Maybe I should stick to sport climbing.
Also bought and cut the ply for the campus board so nothing left but to screw it on and add the rungs
Firm believer that the bouldering is by far the most important part of the plan and should be the last thing to be dropped. All the FB/core/aerocap stuff comes second and should never substitute an hour on the board.The two good sessions I had bouldering were as strong as i have have been this year so i guess the rest was good.
Quote from: fried on February 01, 2015, 03:22:21 pmSTG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)Fr - Indoor Su - Knee O.K indoors, Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.Looks like 2 and 1 this week. I would think it depends on goals. routes/boulders? If your goal is to stay strong, I'd look at 1 BM, 1 campus, 1 hard boulder, and 1 easy/fun ARC session. It won't get you very much stronger as quickly as a good planned cycle, but it should keep ou ready
LTG- 9b+
Feels terrible to have tweaked my finger again- obviously I climbed hard when I was cold but my fingers were also feeling a bit stiffer over the preceding week, which I can only put down to doing more volume of training and not doing the bit of my rehab that's meant to sort my posture out. I need to get one of these back-roller thingies I think.
Quote from: Sasquatch on February 02, 2015, 04:44:07 pmQuote from: fried on February 01, 2015, 03:22:21 pmSTG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)Fr - Indoor Su - Knee O.K indoors, Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.Looks like 2 and 1 this week. I would think it depends on goals. routes/boulders? If your goal is to stay strong, I'd look at 1 BM, 1 campus, 1 hard boulder, and 1 easy/fun ARC session. It won't get you very much stronger as quickly as a good planned cycle, but it should keep ou readyI'm a 43 year old punter who started climbing far too late, susceptible to shoulder problems, currently at 6A outside/ 6B indoors max. I'd love to hit 7A by 50. I'm lookin to progress slowly without getting injured and have fun in the forest.I'm currently doing 3 sessions per week, but this is usually 3 indoor sessions where I aimlessly wander about trying stuff I like the look of. I think I could mange 2bM (45mins max) + 1 hard boulder, 1 easy boulder per week. 3 bouldering sessions + 1 BM might be tough on the old body. When the weather is O.K. I'm doing 1 session outside.Only interesting in boulders.Thanks foe replying.
No problem. Given that, I'd maybe think about alternating weeks. week 1 - 2BM, 1 hard, 1 easy. week 2 - 1 Bm, 2 hard boulder. Or just alternating workouts, BM, Hard Boulder, Easy Boulder, BM, Hard, Easy, etc. as you go. Fun in the forest makes me jealous.
Quote from: cheque on February 02, 2015, 10:18:20 amLTG- 9b+Shocking lack of ambition here. Last week's goal of Dawn Wall OS was a proper LTG.
More seriously I'm interested in what the posture sorting exercises you're doing are? I've had a similar diagnosis and am doing various shoulder stability exercises such as shrugs and some light weight work.
Having checked through my training diaries I have discovered I was at my strongest during a fingerboard phase when doing max hangs on day 1 followed by repeaters the next days and came up with a plan that goes:M - max hangs (15-20 hangs)T - repeaters (6 grips x 2 sets each)W - AeroTh - rest (possibly something CV)F - max hangsS - repeatersS - restAnyone (Sas?) care to critique this?Maybe it was just coincidence I was so strong last time?I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Consecutive days too much? The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power. Think I've used up my quota of question marks now.Thanks all
Quote from: nai on February 02, 2015, 06:46:26 pmI've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Speaking as an old dad susceptible to injury, yes, I would be wary of hangboarding on successive days. But i don't see any harm mixing up max hangs and repeaters/ encores in the same session ... in fact personally I am very keen to see progress in both. The main thing I have taken away from the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book - which I realise may already be very obvious to many people - is the importance of intensity when you do train. I have definitely been guilty of "tick the box" training in the past. Now I do try to give 100% to sessions and so definitely wouldn't be able to train hangboard two days successively. Or if I did, the second day would be sub-par.
I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime?
The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.
Quote from: Sasquatch on February 02, 2015, 04:29:31 pmWhat's really hard for me is that I've never in my life actually prioritized my job above my personal life. It just feels wrong.I was going to say that I am the same but on reflection it is not true. I have submitted to working for a long period in cities far-from-climbing. However, I have never committed properly to jobs; always been somewhat subversive and a PITA to my employers whilst maxing out my holiday allowances. So possibly making the worst of both worlds.
What's really hard for me is that I've never in my life actually prioritized my job above my personal life. It just feels wrong.
I have a Prior board (the local brand here) with the Spark Magneto bindings. They swap pretty fast. I find the slowest parts of a transition to ski's is putting on the skins, which is of course common with skiers, and - going the other way - re-assembly of the board, which often seems to require some tedious de-icing along the "split" edges.
Quote from: nai on February 02, 2015, 06:46:26 pmThe plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power. So this is an interesting thing to me. I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go.