[andy_e]

"ST" is an abbreviation of Stunde, German for hours. The LB is photoshop.

[tomtom]

"ST" is an abbreviation of Stunde, German for hours. The LB is photoshop.

Shouldn't it be 08 seconds then? :p

Anyway, stop pissing on my chips when you're 45 you'll be chuffed to weight less than you did at 25

Bah! Hmph! Paarp! (and assorted old man noises)

[Muenchener]

Like the explosive pullups idea, I've been doing standard pullups with extra weight added but they sound like an interesting alternative, will give them a go and if I don't break immediately aim to incorporate them into a weights routine after every other FB workout.

It's a strength phase / power phase thing. I did weighted pullups in November-December and am doing explosive pullups now. The goal being a muscle up.

I'm getting the first pull of the first two or three sets to about my solar plexus, so getting the transition to over the bar is probably a technique thing now. Time to visit beastskills again.

[joel182]

Posting in here to declare my intention to post properly in power club next week! I have been doing the most routes training I've ever done in the run up to a trip to Siurana, and can feel the benefits of it - hopefully posting on here will be a good motivator for more structured training and more benefit!

STG: Onsight 7a or harder in Siurana, and start building my base of low F7s on rock
MTG: Send a labelled V8 in the Castle, build a foundation of general strength to prevent injury
LTG: ???

[Fiend]

Maybe not Lucid as it's a bit far away, but I've got a local v14/15 project thats quite aesthetic and crimpy  
Straight up the middle of this 45 degree wall.  All of the moves had been done at v12/13, but then a key hold broke.  Now it's much harder

Grey 45 project!

[Matt002]

Thanks!  I thought about the point of power club, what I've gotten out of UKB, and felt like this was a good place to give back. 

Besides- it helps all of us learn a little bit more so hopefully we all get something out of it.  myself included.

Ive got loads from these power club posts, my finger board workouts were pretty unproductive and not working in any real sense, not something I understood or enjoyed.  I knew fingerboard would help break my plateau but didn't know how to use one properly.

Its now something I look forward to almost as much as climbing (and can fit into my life more easily now I'm a dad).

[the_dom]

The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.

So this is an interesting thing to me.  I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go. 

I feel like repeaters are more of a strength endurance and/or work capacity type exercise.  As such they are quite good at building up your body's capacity to perform work, and at recovering from it.  There may be cross over strength gains, but I suspect you're not increasing your raw strength as much as your ability to perform more work.  This isn't to knock repeaters, it's to understand the reason for doing them and how to follow them from a training perspective.   If you follow a repeater cycle with a campusing power cycle, you are move from a workload of 504 seconds (7sec x 6reps x 6grips x 2sets = 504seconds) to a workload timewise of 60-200 seconds for a HARD campus workout (figure a campus attempt takes 4-8 seconds, and you'll do between 15-25 attempts in a session).  For me, this clearly shows the relative strength impact. 

If you look at the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book and the structure of their "power" cycle you'll see it alternates between a Campus Workout and a Max Boulder workout, and their max boulder workout is intended to be focused on moves at your absolute limit, and only in the 1-5 move range for the problems and lots of rest in between efforts, but every effort should be 100%.  This keeps you well down in total volume as compared to the work performed during the repeater sets. 

So to me what they're advocating is a work capacity period followed by a strength period followed by a str endurance period.

My two cents.. Years ago, I went through a period of depression and decided that I didn't want to leave my house to train, I forced myself to fingerboard and saw really good gains using a programme that could almost be said to be more focused on power endurance, rather than pure power. I think repeaters provide a really good power base, and with some supplementary power work, the gains magnify.

I would do three sessions a week, on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Tuesday and Thursday were what I thought of as power, and Wednesday was power endurance.

The structure of the 'power' sessions were:

• One arm dead hangs on a 2cm rung
  Sets of repeaters - small BM rung, 35 degree sloper, F3 and B3 on my 2cm rung

I added weight progressively, using the same weight for the whole session.

The power endurance sessions were based on a Ethan Pringle 20 minute hangboard session.

I'd be interested to hear any thoughts on this, because the gains were pretty good.

[Matt002]

The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power.

So this is an interesting thing to me.  I'm not to be convinces that repeaters are a "strength exercise", but then I'm also yet to be convinced a 4 wk Str followed by a 4 wk power is the right way to go. 

I feel like repeaters are more of a strength endurance and/or work capacity type exercise.  As such they are quite good at building up your body's capacity to perform work, and at recovering from it.  There may be cross over strength gains, but I suspect you're not increasing your raw strength as much as your ability to perform more work.  This isn't to knock repeaters, it's to understand the reason for doing them and how to follow them from a training perspective.   If you follow a repeater cycle with a campusing power cycle, you are move from a workload of 504 seconds (7sec x 6reps x 6grips x 2sets = 504seconds) to a workload timewise of 60-200 seconds for a HARD campus workout (figure a campus attempt takes 4-8 seconds, and you'll do between 15-25 attempts in a session).  For me, this clearly shows the relative strength impact. 

If you look at the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book and the structure of their "power" cycle you'll see it alternates between a Campus Workout and a Max Boulder workout, and their max boulder workout is intended to be focused on moves at your absolute limit, and only in the 1-5 move range for the problems and lots of rest in between efforts, but every effort should be 100%.  This keeps you well down in total volume as compared to the work performed during the repeater sets. 

So to me what they're advocating is a work capacity period followed by a strength period followed by a str endurance period.

My two cents.. Years ago, I went through a period of depression and decided that I didn't want to leave my house to train, I forced myself to fingerboard and saw really good gains using a programme that could almost be said to be more focused on power endurance, rather than pure power. I think repeaters provide a really good power base, and with some supplementary power work, the gains magnify.

I would do three sessions a week, on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Tuesday and Thursday were what I thought of as power, and Wednesday was power endurance.

The structure of the 'power' sessions were:

• One arm dead hangs on a 2cm rung
  Sets of repeaters - small BM rung, 35 degree sloper, F3 and B3 on my 2cm rung

I added weight progressively, using the same weight for the whole session.

The power endurance sessions were based on a Ethan Pringle 20 minute hangboard session.

I'd be interested to hear any thoughts on this, because the gains were pretty good.

My current FB workout follows a similar pattern.  I use a 15mm edge and do 1 rep max on that (1x5 sec hang). Followed by various weighted repeaters to build what I would call capacity. 
I too view all repeaters as a type of endurance training (ANCAP?), every 3rd session I change the 1 rep max to 1 rep minimum edge and half the number of reps in the repeaters to 3 (doubling the added weight to reach fail at last second last rep).  This I feel concentrates the capacity built by the 6 rep stuff more into power.

I follow this up with 2 weeks campusing and then 6 weeks sending.
For me, power is the ability to concentrate all your avaliable strengh into a 1 second burst, I think campusing (or limit bouldering) is the only way to do this and the FB work just builds the capacity to fuel this work.