Meddonet and plex in the spring though, I'll be there!
Since I am in a "strength" phase just now, if I do a beatsmaker session will I get more value out of doing max hangs (3-5 seconds, 2 mins rest, 4 or 5 reps) instead of doing repeaters?
Is it best to stick to one thing (max hangs OR repeaters) or are repeaters a good way of worming up further for max hangs - i.e. after a through bouldering warmup?
And now I'm doing a round of max hangs (front 2 small pockets, monos, back 3 big edge, maybe some other stuff).
Quote from: Fultonius on February 05, 2015, 02:07:04 pmAnd now I'm doing a round of max hangs (front 2 small pockets, monos, back 3 big edge, maybe some other stuff).Fuckin' ell, sounds like you need to work on your back 3/2!!
Edit: forgot the title of the thread. Grab a bad hold when you feel like it and happen to be warmed up. Hang until you fail. Repeat a bit. Pick another bad hold. Repeat until bored. Then go bouldering and try something different/hard.
Quote from: nai on February 02, 2015, 06:46:26 pmHaving checked through my training diaries I have discovered I was at my strongest during a fingerboard phase when doing max hangs on day 1 followed by repeaters the next days and came up with a plan that goes:M - max hangs (15-20 hangs)T - repeaters (6 grips x 2 sets each)W - AeroTh - rest (possibly something CV)F - max hangsS - repeatersS - restAnyone (Sas?) care to critique this?Maybe it was just coincidence I was so strong last time?I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Consecutive days too much? The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power. Think I've used up my quota of question marks now.Thanks allHappy to comment, alhtough I'm not a a pro coach either.A few years ago I found a similar thing although not looking at repeater/max hangs. I found that I would do a FB max hang workout, then go boulder the next day and felt great/crushed it. I think it's due to the recruitment carryover, and I'm not convinced it's a good thing to be aware of for training, although it is good to be aware of it for performance. I've seen it in other sports where it is common the day before an event to do a short workout with really high intensity. Quote from: habrich on February 02, 2015, 08:47:58 pmQuote from: nai on February 02, 2015, 06:46:26 pmI've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Speaking as an old dad susceptible to injury, yes, I would be wary of hangboarding on successive days. But i don't see any harm mixing up max hangs and repeaters/ encores in the same session ... in fact personally I am very keen to see progress in both. The main thing I have taken away from the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book - which I realise may already be very obvious to many people - is the importance of intensity when you do train. I have definitely been guilty of "tick the box" training in the past. Now I do try to give 100% to sessions and so definitely wouldn't be able to train hangboard two days successively. Or if I did, the second day would be sub-par.I fully agree that intensity is the key to seeing returns, and volume will likely be the limiter for doing 2 days in a row. I can't imagine doing a second FB workout the day after a hard repeater workout, but the day after max hangs I can definitely still pull really hard. That said, I think that may be a good workout structure overall, but pay really close attention to your gains. The two day easy/rest days in between should help you maintain recovery, but i'd worry a bit about the one day rest. Perhaps on the F, S combo reduce the volume of repeaters, or combine them into a single workout as Habrich mentioned. I did Max hangs and repeaters this fall in a combo workout I really liked this fall. It was:Warm-upProgressive max hangs: 10 second 1/2 crimp at 75% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest10 second 1/2 crimp at 85% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min rest10 second 1/2 crimp at 95% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min restMax Hangs:3-5 x 10 second 1/2 crimp at 100% total goal weight (body weight plus added weight), 3min restRest 5 minRepeaters6 grips, 3 min rest in betweenrest 7 min6 grips, 3 min rest in betweenThis has fewer max hangs than what you're doing, but personally I found I couldn't maintain the intensity on Max hangs beyond 8-9 hangs across any number of grips.
Having checked through my training diaries I have discovered I was at my strongest during a fingerboard phase when doing max hangs on day 1 followed by repeaters the next days and came up with a plan that goes:M - max hangs (15-20 hangs)T - repeaters (6 grips x 2 sets each)W - AeroTh - rest (possibly something CV)F - max hangsS - repeatersS - restAnyone (Sas?) care to critique this?Maybe it was just coincidence I was so strong last time?I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Consecutive days too much? The plan is just to perform it for 4 weeks then move onto power. Think I've used up my quota of question marks now.Thanks all
Quote from: nai on February 02, 2015, 06:46:26 pmI've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime? Speaking as an old dad susceptible to injury, yes, I would be wary of hangboarding on successive days. But i don't see any harm mixing up max hangs and repeaters/ encores in the same session ... in fact personally I am very keen to see progress in both. The main thing I have taken away from the "Rock Climbers Training Manual" book - which I realise may already be very obvious to many people - is the importance of intensity when you do train. I have definitely been guilty of "tick the box" training in the past. Now I do try to give 100% to sessions and so definitely wouldn't be able to train hangboard two days successively. Or if I did, the second day would be sub-par.
I've been fingerboarding periodically for about five years now so should be fairly adapted to it but is it too much hangtime?
Fultonius,One thing that has helped me whilst doing repeaters (advice I was given, not something I thought up) is to think of the 10 seconds as 1 rep. Those 10 seconds contain the effort and the rest. The end goal is to complete all the reps as 7 seconds effort, 3 seconds rest for all sets. However, the starting point can be 3 seconds effort 7 seconds rest, or 5 and 5, as long as the effort and rest add up to 10 and you then have something to work towards and to show progression.
I was just thinking that I can go around 3 "reps" before needing a quick chalk, so if my fourth rep is 6secs / 4 rest I suppose it'll make the square root or fuck all difference in the grand scheme of things. I like to keep to the 10 second rep idea as it saves my brain having to function too hard working out when I should start and finish.I used to count my seconds in my head, but now using my phone as a timer it's clear I was goin 1.2.3.4.5.6.7 1.....2.......3....... 1.2.3.4567......1.........2.........3........... etc.!Keep to the clock.
A bit of a revelation today. I've just finished session at the monk bouldergym in Amsterdam (nice place, good vibe, good problems ). Resting loads makes me strong! Honestly, I think I have always under-rested between goes on problems. Today I had one, sometimes two goes on each problem with 3 to 5 minutes rest between (spent re-reading the white spider) and I felt waay more able to crush than normal. I think my old ways were probably good for endurance but shit for getting strong. It seemed like my "peak power" lasted for at least an hour and spanned over 5 or 6 problems rather than 10 minutes and 2 problems. Cheers guys, good advice as always.
Moon board grades are all over the shop
I found 6B+ pretty hard...I was flashing the V4/V5 problems
Indoor grades in general are bollocks, ignore them.For anyone struggling to keep chalked up for repeaters or whatever, you could try some Megagrip/liquid chalk/Sid's Jizz type stuff as a base, should help a fair bit, and might cut down on your indoor dust.
