Dry crags this weekend in the Peak? (Read 18910 times)

EdGowSmith · January 29, 2015, 01:24:04 pm

Heading to the Peak District for Saturday and Sunday, anyone got recommendations for crags that are most likely to be in good condition and have dry problems (either gritstone or limestone)?

Staying in Hathersage and was hoping to do one day on grit and one on limestone but looks like I'm going to have to be flexible.

tomtom · January 29, 2015, 01:46:33 pm

Given the shit loads of snow thats fallen overnight/this morning I think its going to be dependant on what you can drive to and what the weather closer to the weekend is.. I suspect it'll be a case of figure it out on Sat AM...

cheque · January 29, 2015, 03:04:32 pm

Southern Peak is usually a better bet than the moors when it's been snowing.

As I type the ever-useful Matlock Bath webcam is showing clear roads and pavement with no significant snowfall forecast before the weekend.

tomtom · January 29, 2015, 03:15:10 pm

Useful page for you Ed:

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Useful_WebCams#Peak_District

nai · January 29, 2015, 03:24:50 pm

Might be time to wake this one up again:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16522.0.html

Estimate we've had about 12" in S17, won't be easy getting around for a few days.

EdGowSmith · January 29, 2015, 04:37:17 pm

Thanks for the replies.

Is there likely to be any dry limestone?

mrjonathanr · January 29, 2015, 05:57:27 pm

I can't answer that. I can tell you that Stoney is the driest big crag, with a rather good selection of bouldering and sport and trad. Moat and Crunch buttresses are my punt for driest pure sport climbing.

fatdoc · January 29, 2015, 05:58:03 pm

Warm snow dump, now freezing in Sheffield.. I'd bag it off and come another time tbh...

James Malloch · January 29, 2015, 06:07:01 pm

Broomsgrove. One of the best too!

twoshoes · January 29, 2015, 06:32:17 pm

Lots of snow in Sheffield, blizzard going over the top of Froggatt, not as much once you're down towards Matlock and Bakewell. Still a fair bit mind, so wouldn't like to guarantee it'd be climbable.

Bonjoy · January 30, 2015, 09:54:40 am

Churnet is probably about the safest bet. eatswood should be fine but the roads around it might not be. Shining Cliff is also a pretty safe bet and sheltered from the Baltic winds predicted, not a huge selection of probs though. If you do limestone in winter then the likes of Anston and Roche Abbey are probably in great nick.

twoshoes · January 30, 2015, 11:00:16 am

More snow in Matlock last night. Minor roads pretty snowy up towards Ashover and Eastridge, but passable this morning with winter tyres on. The local farmers are out scraping roads and the 4x4s generally flatten the rest, so you might be ok. Although you'll probably sink when you try and park.

tomtom · January 30, 2015, 12:06:14 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 30, 2015, 09:54:40 am

Churnet is probably about the safest bet. eatswood should be fine but the roads around it might not be. Shining Cliff is also a pretty safe bet and sheltered from the Baltic winds predicted, not a huge selection of probs though. If you do limestone in winter then the likes of Anston and Roche Abbey are probably in great nick.

From the Roaches this morning...

More here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/live/uk-england-derbyshire-30887937

Duncan campbell · January 30, 2015, 12:32:00 pm

Anyone reckon rivelin will be ok?

TobyD · January 30, 2015, 12:39:07 pm

I live a mile or so from rivelin, I'd be surprised if it wasn't utterly caked in snow.

Duncan campbell · January 30, 2015, 12:53:24 pm

Cheers Toby, saved me driving there now from south Sheffield!

AlistairB · January 30, 2015, 02:22:36 pm

Anyone got any info on the state of Ringinglow Road? So far from looking through non-climbing sources apparently Sheffield to Surprise view carpark is fine but the Derbyshire side is bad. All I can find out about Ringinglow is that the buses seem to be going to the Norfolk Arms OK but no bus routes go past Burbage Bridge etc. so no info on that.

DubDom · January 30, 2015, 02:34:25 pm

Nothing was moving past the norfolk arms last night, I'd be surprised if it was any better today. I'm sure you could access Burbage via the Fox house though?

mrjonathanr · January 30, 2015, 11:02:54 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 30, 2015, 09:54:40 am

Churnet is probably about the safest bet.

Very wet last weekend I am told.

Mr_Cus · January 31, 2015, 08:36:34 am

Get out to fox house no problem. Roads are completely fine. There was about 13- 15 inches of snow there yesterday though!!

kippa · January 31, 2015, 08:54:47 am

Does anyone know if Moontan at Rivelin will dry?

tomtom · January 31, 2015, 08:58:21 am

Quote from: kippa on January 31, 2015, 08:54:47 am

Does anyone know if Moontan at Rivelin will dry?

Seen reply #13 above?

nai · January 31, 2015, 09:49:56 am

Quote from: tomtom on January 31, 2015, 08:58:21 am

Quote from: kippa on January 31, 2015, 08:54:47 am
Does anyone know if Moontan at Rivelin will dry?

Seen reply #13 above?

Equally have you seen reply #4? It's on the snow proof problems list, lives under a small overlap in a corner and while the rest of the crag may be snowbound this has a chance of remaining dry. Might be the only thing there dry (Sparks an outside chance too) but for the ~~desperate~~ keen in the absence of other opportunities it's probaly worth a look. Of course it could be a dripping mess by now but uintil someone goes for a look we won't know for sure.

cjsheps · January 31, 2015, 04:24:47 pm

Has anyone been out today to a dry crag that's accessible without a 4x4? I'm desperate to get out for some snow action, but accessibility seems to be an issue!

Offwidth · January 31, 2015, 04:49:10 pm

Another bump for road conditions for tomorrow after any thaw today. Cant believe only the Snake, Winnatts and Flash closures reported on the web are all thats left (and stated as due to be cleared by 5.30 today).

monkey boy · January 31, 2015, 05:19:45 pm

eatswood and roads to it absolutely fine today.

Dolly · January 31, 2015, 09:24:56 pm

All roads from Sheff to Bakewell fine. Hardly any snow there. Cratcliffe RHS and apparently Rowtor all have dry stuff to go at

ashtond6 · January 31, 2015, 09:36:47 pm

Matlock quarries are dry

simon40 · February 20, 2015, 07:03:44 pm

Has anyone been to cratcliff or robin hoods
Keen to look at t crack

old cheese · February 20, 2015, 08:19:22 pm

Should be ok up there. Was at Stanton moor today which was in good nick. It was breezy too so wind should have helped the dry things off

Wood FT · February 20, 2015, 08:34:06 pm

Bonjoy wrote an article on conditions and a gold medal of geekery earning peak crag conditions spreadsheet. Thought it worth posting here

http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/quelles-sont-les-connies

monkey boy · February 20, 2015, 09:26:02 pm

Burble South and West were in good nick today!

Fiend · February 21, 2015, 10:04:55 pm

Wise squawks from the goose there.

Bonjoy · February 23, 2015, 12:36:43 pm

I keep thinking of points I forgot to make in that piece. Such as - while road wetness is a goodish indicator of how dry the crags might be, it can be misleading, especially after freezing conditions when there is a lot of grit/salt on the road which holds water and makes the roads look wetter than they otherwise would be. Look at the pavement instead.

Johnny Brown · February 23, 2015, 12:41:18 pm

I tend to look at walls.

Wood FT · February 23, 2015, 01:20:48 pm

I think it was Largers who said he checked bin lids for wetness as a sign, I do that

Bonjoy · February 23, 2015, 01:24:03 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on February 23, 2015, 12:41:18 pm

I tend to look at walls.

Got to get your aspect right. I find walls a bit bullish though, especially brick ones. Ideally you want a stone wall matching your crag aspect and shelter.

Johnny Brown · February 23, 2015, 01:26:59 pm

Obvs. Or find a dry wall and then think of a crag with matching aspect.

andy_e · February 23, 2015, 01:27:13 pm

You have to bear in mind that pavements often suffer contamination from road splash and so may also appear wetter than a crag may be. I too prefer stone walls, with drystone walls being the best indicator. Building walls may provide misleading information due to internal heating.

webbo · February 23, 2015, 02:28:04 pm

Al Manson used to reckon looking at trees. If they had a dry side find a crag facing the same way.

Bonjoy · February 23, 2015, 04:51:47 pm

Quote from: andy_e on February 23, 2015, 01:27:13 pm

Building walls may provide misleading information due to internal heating.

And soffits.

dave · February 23, 2015, 06:36:33 pm

Quote from: GuyVG on February 23, 2015, 01:20:48 pm

I think it was Largers who said he checked bin lids for wetness as a sign, I do that

I can't speak for lagers but my kids don't know shit about conditions.

tomtom · February 23, 2015, 06:44:54 pm

Quote from: dave on February 23, 2015, 06:36:33 pm

Quote from: GuyVG on February 23, 2015, 01:20:48 pm
I think it was Largers who said he checked bin lids for wetness as a sign, I do that

I can't speak for lagers but my kids don't know shit about conditions.

He leaves one overnight at Burbage with a mobile so he can get up to the min reports.. shackle on the ankle and a ground anchor solves any motivation issues...

highrepute · February 23, 2015, 06:58:05 pm

Quote from: GuyVG on February 23, 2015, 01:20:48 pm

I think it was Largers who said he checked bin lids for wetness as a sign, I do that

I remember talking to you about this. Nathan said he doesn't have any technique for predicting conditions he just goes out...there's always something dry.

Wood FT · February 23, 2015, 10:59:34 pm

yeah but he's fucking student

Fiend · February 24, 2015, 04:06:06 pm

Ideally, go out, find a dry crag, and then find a wall or pavement to match it.

Or just stare at the wall indefinitely.

webbo · February 24, 2015, 04:24:44 pm

Or go to Macdonalds and which ever way the guy serving you zits face. Crags facing that way will be dry.

Drew · August 08, 2016, 10:26:42 am

Quote from: Wood FT on February 20, 2015, 08:34:06 pm

Bonjoy wrote an article on conditions and a gold medal of geekery earning peak crag conditions spreadsheet. Thought it worth posting here

http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/quelles-sont-les-connies

What's happened to this article? The comments are there, and a picture, but none of Bonjoy's genius.

danm · August 08, 2016, 12:13:54 pm

I made my own copy of Bonjoys spreadsheet of connies knowledge in Google Docs so I could access it anywhere. Might as well share it if that's OK Jon?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dHoOH9P16T21G203js4uVTFSISUKnZZ8euTYXy1hTQ4/edit?usp=sharing

Wood FT · August 08, 2016, 12:41:41 pm

Quote from: Drew on August 08, 2016, 10:26:42 am

Quote from: Wood FT on February 20, 2015, 08:34:06 pm
Bonjoy wrote an article on conditions and a gold medal of geekery earning peak crag conditions spreadsheet. Thought it worth posting here

http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/quelles-sont-les-connies

What's happened to this article? The comments are there, and a picture, but none of Bonjoy's genius.

Ah shit I fucked up, I'll add it back on asap (cheers Dan!)

tommytwotone · August 08, 2016, 03:21:11 pm

Quote from: danm on August 08, 2016, 12:13:54 pm

I made my own copy of Bonjoys spreadsheet of connies knowledge in Google Docs so I could access it anywhere. Might as well share it if that's OK Jon?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dHoOH9P16T21G203js4uVTFSISUKnZZ8euTYXy1hTQ4/edit?usp=sharing

Damn, that is good. Someone needs to compile a Yorkshire version of that - with Earl as 5/5 for all categories of course.

danm · August 08, 2016, 03:41:34 pm

Quote from: tommytwotone on August 08, 2016, 03:21:11 pm

Quote from: danm on August 08, 2016, 12:13:54 pm
I made my own copy of Bonjoys spreadsheet of connies knowledge in Google Docs so I could access it anywhere. Might as well share it if that's OK Jon?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dHoOH9P16T21G203js4uVTFSISUKnZZ8euTYXy1hTQ4/edit?usp=sharing

Damn, that is good. Someone needs to compile a Yorkshire version of that - with Earl as 5/5 for all categories of course.

I'm an atheist, but if there was a God, I'm pretty sure they'd look like Bonjoy.