Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
Quote from: Muenchener on January 28, 2015, 09:19:10 am Anybody else do this / does it have a name?'Desperate'I do the same on slate sometimes.
Kelvin - that's what I mean by half crimp, or my natural position.
For me there is a distinct difference between full crimp, half crimp and chisel when using a small edge.Ill post some pics later if my iphone is successfully repaired
Quote from: Will Hunt on January 26, 2015, 04:40:46 pmShort term goals:- Figure out what my weaknesses really are (if anybody out there climbs/has climbed with me then please tell me what they are. My feelings won't be hurt!)- Build a coherent training plan around these that will create long term improvement- Put it in action and arrive in Font injury free (early April)- 3 sessions of climbing related training per weekM - T - Fingerboard. Trying out different grips for about an hour (including WU). Trying to find what works and how I can get into Dave Mac's 5-8 second zone. Worked front and back 3 in open hand only.W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg) 3 sets of one rep on each arm. Weighted pull ups (+15kg) 3x3. Toes-to-bar - 3x3 - could not fully complete the last set.T -F - Beer and a late nightS - Did one route at Horseshit - horribly cold. Bailed to Curbar and did Trackside and a few easy problems.S - 2 games of Munchkin and 2 games of Settlers of Catan. YYFY.Not a great week in terms of training. Didn't get on a board, which having read 9 out of 10 Climbers, I think is a big issue. Technique on properly steep stuff is obviously crap.There was quite a bit of discussion about starting core training. Are you going to go down that road as I only see the 3x3 toes-to-bar in this cycle? It seems like an obvious weakness to address.
Short term goals:- Figure out what my weaknesses really are (if anybody out there climbs/has climbed with me then please tell me what they are. My feelings won't be hurt!)- Build a coherent training plan around these that will create long term improvement- Put it in action and arrive in Font injury free (early April)- 3 sessions of climbing related training per weekM - T - Fingerboard. Trying out different grips for about an hour (including WU). Trying to find what works and how I can get into Dave Mac's 5-8 second zone. Worked front and back 3 in open hand only.W - Gym. Assisted one armers (-10Kg) 3 sets of one rep on each arm. Weighted pull ups (+15kg) 3x3. Toes-to-bar - 3x3 - could not fully complete the last set.T -F - Beer and a late nightS - Did one route at Horseshit - horribly cold. Bailed to Curbar and did Trackside and a few easy problems.S - 2 games of Munchkin and 2 games of Settlers of Catan. YYFY.Not a great week in terms of training. Didn't get on a board, which having read 9 out of 10 Climbers, I think is a big issue. Technique on properly steep stuff is obviously crap.
I was goign to start offering up suggestion to those who are posting - if you think they're shit feel free to say so, and obviously they'll be well researched from reading 1-2 threads
Gme, is this:Quote from: gme on January 26, 2015, 01:25:45 pmWed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.something you came up with?I've been reading the Andersons' RCTM and they recommend traditional (>30 mins on) ARC for bouldering base fitness. I wondered if doing lots of relatively easy problems was better as it seems more specific to bouldering.
Wed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.
Its in the plan. However I think that focussing on building 'core' strength would be a mistake. When I had a board session at the Depot the week before it became obvious that there were large gains to be made by improving steep ground technique - hence trying to get down the board a bit too.
Quote from: LB1782 on January 27, 2015, 10:46:45 amGme, is this:Quote from: gme on January 26, 2015, 01:25:45 pmWed- Climbing works red and greens aerocap thingy. 75 problems 750+ moves 45 mins.something you came up with?I've been reading the Andersons' RCTM and they recommend traditional (>30 mins on) ARC for bouldering base fitness. I wondered if doing lots of relatively easy problems was better as it seems more specific to bouldering.Sorry i have only just seen this.I read it somewhere but cant remember where. I have done the 30 mins continuous method and the 10 on 10 off but find them tedious to the extreme and pretty antisocial at any wall. I obviously don't have the boredom threshold of Barrows who seems to enjoy doing them on the campus board.So, after reading an article, i kind of came up with a solution that seems to fit the bill as an exercise, removes the boredom factor and suits the facilities I train at. It takes me about 45 minutes and other than a quick few steps on the ground between problems you are on the wall. You get the constant low level pump pump i believe your looking for and if it gets to high i make my self rest on the wall. If its too easy just add a few of the next level circuit up.I do mine in the works on the easiest two circuit and it fits perfectly. feels like a piece of piss to start with but pretty out of breath and sweating like a pig by the end, although that might be to do with how shit i am at this kind of stuff. Oh and i do actually get pretty pumped at times but not to the point of falling off, i need the workout i do to feel like i have done something and dont have the time or inclination to do something for an hour that left me feeling like i had spent an hour in a health spa.As an add on it shows up how badly i climb when i get a bit pumped so i am concentrating on technique and pulling on the holds as little as possible. This is key to climbing routes and something i now realise i am really shit at. I blame this on bouldering for so long where its all about pulling really hard.
Even so, I can't do 1-4-7 on the medium or large rungs. Like I said it, makes for a good comparison of relative strengths. An alternative if you not specifically training for a campus move is to do max moves using a foot on to generate momentum. This can be done either matched hands, or offset. Cheers and good luck w the DWS project. That's something i'd like to do sometime.
Despite it being around for a long time now, backed by science and by strong people I am still not sure of the benefits of the campus board. I know so many people who can/could only just do 1-4-7 who consistently bouldered in the 8s inside and out. And i know lots who can do 1-5-8 who cant do 7B. Your level even on big rungs seems completely out of kilter with the grade your climbing and i would suggest has no benefit to your training.I can boulder V7 outside even on burly stuff at the minute but cant even lock off on a bar never mind do 1-4-7. like Sasquatch i could probably benefit from doing a bit of campusing, but even then i am not convinced it will be better for me than just bouldering on steep boards.
Quote from: Muenchener on January 28, 2015, 09:19:10 amThere's another position that I find myself using e.g. on slate - not a conscious choice, just what it seems natural to do on small holds on slabs - with my fingers completely curled over 180 degrees, fingernails against the rock and the tips of my fingers on the hold. Anybody else do this / does it have a name?If I understand correctly, you mean the grip position which effectively turns the hand into a skyhook?
There's another position that I find myself using e.g. on slate - not a conscious choice, just what it seems natural to do on small holds on slabs - with my fingers completely curled over 180 degrees, fingernails against the rock and the tips of my fingers on the hold. Anybody else do this / does it have a name?
On the subject of the true "full crimp", It has dawned on me recently that I never really do them as shown in the photos as my fingers don't hyper-extend.
Sorry i have only just seen this.I read it somewhere but cant remember where. ...It takes me about 45 minutes and other than a quick few steps on the ground between problems you are on the wall.