The Process? (Read 24259 times)

andy popp · January 18, 2015, 04:24:21 pm

The other channel is reporting that Daniel Woods has completed the well-known project on the Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks. Reputely 8B into 8B+ into 7C+ = 8C+?

JMB · January 18, 2015, 04:36:09 pm

Some good information and photos on Deadpoint Magazine's page:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/daniel-woods-sends-bishop-mega-project-v16

Doylo · January 18, 2015, 05:12:01 pm

Be interesting to see if he sticks his neck out and gives it 8C+.

Sloper · January 18, 2015, 05:45:00 pm

Given the exposure of the Dawn Wall recently i wonder if this is going to get a feature on R4, The Guardian etc, I'd love it to be in the mail so that the chorus of morons can get a good trill.

Jaspersharpe · January 18, 2015, 09:17:00 pm

Sasq mentioned this didn't he? The local guy working it when he was there and that it was ridiculous.

8B into 8B+ into highball 7C+, however wide you want 8C to be surely that has to be harder?

What did someone say about bouldering reaching a limit? The possibilities are endless.

Stubbs · January 18, 2015, 09:25:24 pm

Yeah Daniel Beall, some great shots of it on his IG http://instagram.com/daniel_beall/

Maybe there is something in this Team of Two press ups until you puke style training regime after all!

Totally stunning collection of climbs on Grandpa now: Evilution, Ambrosia, Lucid Dreaming and now this!

Jaspersharpe · January 18, 2015, 10:23:16 pm

Decent little circuit yeah.

Sasquatch · January 19, 2015, 08:16:46 am

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on January 18, 2015, 09:17:00 pm

Sasq mentioned this didn't he? The local guy working it when he was there and that it was ridiculous.

Quote from: Stubbs on January 18, 2015, 09:25:24 pm

Yeah Daniel Beall, some great shots of it on his IG http://instagram.com/daniel_beall/

Yeah Dan Beall was so close and has been working this line for the last 3 years.

Was really amazing watching him work it.

Wood FT · January 19, 2015, 01:51:27 pm

sounds like an amazing piece of climbing, look forward to seeing it. The description reads more like a futuristic sport route than a boulder problem.

standard · January 19, 2015, 03:21:43 pm

was only a matter of time.
in exposure II, he cruises to the lip (8B into 8B+ I assume) a few times, but bottles the 7C+ top out and jumps off.

r-man · January 19, 2015, 03:38:34 pm

Question - does the 7C+ make any difference to the grade?

Or to swap the numbers for more comprehensible equivalents... If I climb a 7B into a 7B+ would a 6C+ top out make any difference?

Doylo · January 19, 2015, 03:51:52 pm

Maybe if it's a one move 6C+!

bendavison · January 19, 2015, 04:00:54 pm

A lot of people fall off the end of Ben's roof...

Bonjoy · January 19, 2015, 04:18:50 pm

Quote from: r-man on January 19, 2015, 03:38:34 pm

Question - does the 7C+ make any difference to the grade?

Or to swap the numbers for more comprehensible equivalents... If I climb a 7B into a 7B+ would a 6C+ top out make any difference?

Depends on a lot of factors. Taking your scaled down example the 6C+ bit could even be the 'redpoint' crux depending on the type of moves and how it stacked on the other parts.

andy_e · January 19, 2015, 04:21:07 pm

I reckon a 7C+ dyno after 8B into 8B+ could be a bit of a heartbreaker.

PipeSmoke · January 19, 2015, 04:43:59 pm

I guess fatigue & the height make the 7C+ move/s feel harder than it should? Would certainly be daunting after battling your way past the lower harder sections.

bendavison · January 19, 2015, 04:54:23 pm

8B into 8B+ must be pretty tough on its own! Any other problems with this breakdown? Bugeleisen (sp?) sit? TSOTW?

Doylo · January 19, 2015, 04:56:36 pm

Isn't the Dagger regarded as 8B now? I reckon 8B into 8B+ must be enough to power out most people, so yes a 7C+ after would probably a difference .

Doylo · January 19, 2015, 05:01:36 pm

Isn't Gioia 8B+ into 8B (or is it 8A+). Of course whether the 8B+ section is first or second will make a big difference .

gme · January 19, 2015, 05:09:26 pm

Dream time is supposed to be two 8A+s on top of each other is it not = 8B+ or 8C and TSOTWs is 8A+ into 8B = 8B+ so i cant see how this cant be given 8C+.

Ru · January 19, 2015, 05:29:52 pm

This is amazing. I wouldn't be surprised if DW shies away from V16, or it settles to a lower grade after repeats. As a reference point, when DG graded TSOTW top end 8C he thought the two sections were both 8B+. Be good if he does give it v16 and it sticks.

Doylo · January 19, 2015, 06:36:00 pm

He might still be reluctant to give something 8C+ after The Game was downgraded. Hypnotised Minds sounds like a contender too.

gme · January 19, 2015, 06:43:20 pm

I wonder why bouldering plays the keep the grades tough game and is happy to downgrade whilst it doesn't happen with routes.
New bouldering areas that were initially overgraded have been moved down in line with the more historical areas such as America and font where as all the routes are now being graded in line with the newer areas that were overgraded years ago such as Spain.

Doylo · January 19, 2015, 06:54:51 pm

I think people want more bang for their buck after climbing 50 metres!

remus · January 19, 2015, 09:38:16 pm

Might just be that theres only two people operating at the top of the route climbing game, and one of them doesn't grade anything.