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stretching for climbing (Read 28594 times)

Falling Down

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#75 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 10:09:59 pm
Horst says...

These are what didn't really work that well for years.  I'm sure they helped a bit but I gained more flexibility in three months doing wall and O'head squats than in the previous ten years doing these...

kelvin

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#76 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 07:30:54 am
Those froggies - we do something similar at yoga but for the life of me, I can't feel the pose doing anything of value. Face down with someone standing on your butt maybe.

tomtom

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#77 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 08:31:37 am

Horst says...

These are what didn't really work that well for years.  I'm sure they helped a bit but I gained more flexibility in three months doing wall and O'head squats than in the previous ten years doing these...

That's really interesting.. I can don't those frog stretches better than the lady in the pics - but can't use them when climbing - ie I suspect I cannot put any weight down through them.. Will look into squats when more recovered... Do they have to be with weights?

chris j

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#78 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 10:44:58 am

Do they have to be with weights?

As another not very flexible person I find trying to do a squat with just holding my arms out in front with good form (feet pointed slightly out, calves as vertical as possible, knees pushed out to the side as you go down, back straight, shoulders neutral, balanced on the centre of the foot etc) just as difficult as with a barbell across my shoulders. If you try to maintain good form, limits of hip or ankle mobility will push you off balance. It won't build as much leg strength but it will work the joint mobility just the same.

rodma

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#79 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 05:50:45 pm
No need for the added weight. Just try them and then walk funny for a few days thereafter :)

fried

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#80 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 06:08:30 pm
I've been having a go at the wall squats for a couple of days, they kill my upper-back/ neck as I try to not move my shoulders forward and they end up around my ears. All good I'm sure.

Falling Down

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#81 Re: stretching for climbing
February 07, 2015, 08:26:24 pm
I'm no scientist or physio but wall squats really pick up on stiffness in the back and shoulders and then ease it out if done gently.

I remember doing some with a couple of good climbers and it was clear they were really restricted in both areas.

For normal squats there's no need for weight... Just good form.  A broom handle in the OHS position is just as good.

TheTwig

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#82 Re: stretching for climbing
February 08, 2015, 04:12:10 am
I have a copy of Essential Yoga: Illustrated guide to over 100 yoga poses and meditation in PDF if anyone is interested, just email

galpinos

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#83 Re: stretching for climbing
February 08, 2015, 08:07:02 am

SiWitcher

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#84 Re: stretching for climbing
February 08, 2015, 11:45:08 pm
+1 for overhead squats and snatch variations, to improve hip, back and shoulder mobility and stability, particularly as an antidote to climbers' often hunched shoulders. Start with a broomstick or pvc pipe and then build up the weight on a bar, once you can do 5 reps, keeping the bar vertically over your centre of gravity, rather than allowing it to tip forward. Keeping tension along the bar helps to keep elbows locked. Eventually, as per him:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h67/Gubernatrix/strength%20training/olympic-squat.jpg

chris j

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#85 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 07:33:39 am
He does say the initial set up 1 foot away from the wall is for beginners, even I can do that! The second one 1 minute in with feet up against the wall is rather more tricky for me.

kelvin

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#86 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 08:22:08 am
I'll have try of that later.

Saw a physio whilst I was away, a guy who runs a gym with a friend of mine, as my adductor was still silly tight and the knee like a balloon - usual comments of the tightest hamstrings he's seen, medial is stretched, so gotta look after the adductor as it's working over time. He'd never seen anyone who does any sort of climbing and was genuinely interested in what we can put our bodies through. He too suggested squats as a way of opening up the hips.

Falling Down

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#87 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 10:52:29 am
 :offtopic:
I think Ben means these:

http://www.schwarzenegger.com/fitness/post/squat-101

I didn't read the article but the video looked about right.. Just skimmed it so I've no idea what he was saying...

mctrials23

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#88 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 10:58:21 am
I'm pretty flexible in most areas but my hips are shockingly bad. I can just about do that wall squat when I am a foot away from the wall but my form is not great.

tomtom

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#89 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:08:34 am
I'm pretty flexible in most areas but my hips are shockingly bad. I can just about do that wall squat when I am a foot away from the wall but my form is not great.

Doesnt this disadvantage the long legged? I mean those with thighs that are only a foot long will piss it! ;)

kelvin

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#90 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:11:58 am
Foot and nose size would matter too I guess.

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#91 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:15:11 am
Foot and nose size would matter too I guess.

Damn right. Long nosed big footed hobbits are at such an advantage... Don't give me all this 'you can lank it' blah blah blah.... ITS HARD BEING TALL NORMAL...

;)

(BTW I can't do one :( )

Falling Down

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#92 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:19:34 am
I'm pretty flexible in most areas but my hips are shockingly bad. I can just about do that wall squat when I am a foot away from the wall but my form is not great.

Doesnt this disadvantage the long legged? I mean those with thighs that are only a foot long will piss it! ;)

 ;)

kelvin

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#93 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:20:36 am
Talkin' of Hobbits - I see she lunges well but I'd be interested in her squat action.


mctrials23

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#94 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:48:34 am
I do have a pretty big nose so I guess there is little hope

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#95 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 06:09:28 pm
Toes against the wall with a broomstick held overhead.  The broom stick should be the same distance from the wall as the front of your shin.  If you can't do that, then start working towards it. 

Falling Down

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#96 Re: stretching for climbing
February 09, 2015, 11:19:33 pm
So how far from the wall do you do them, Ben?

Toes against the wall, barefoot, feet a shoulder width apart, arms outstretched above shoulder height.  You should feel all the weight driving through the heels.  Not done any for ages but should cos I'm off surfing in Morocco in ten days. 

Falling Down

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#97 Re: stretching for climbing
February 10, 2015, 10:10:51 am
Yep perpendicular.  As deep as you can go.  You should normal squats first though..

abarro81

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#98 Re: stretching for climbing
February 10, 2015, 10:25:20 am
Tried these last night, god I'm shit at them! Really hard to keep heel on floor for me

rodma

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#99 Re: stretching for climbing
February 10, 2015, 12:27:29 pm
Tried these last night, god I'm shit at them! Really hard to keep heel on floor for me

probably means your knees are travelling forwards

 

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