Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors
I have to say I admire mc's restraint in not just moaning about the setting being unfair on the tall.
Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors once the grade gets up to about V7. Below that I can generally muscle and lank my way through the moves if they are awkward but on harder stuff and on a 50 degree board I really struggle.I'm 6'2" and weight about 13.5 stone and very little of that is fat so I can't get any lighter without just dropping muscle. I tend to struggle on moves that have feet that are very close to my hands and I don't feel like I can get any power put down on the feet or hands (usually one or the other and usually it requires a transition between the two). I find this especially apparent on the 50 degree board and on overhanging routes of a certain grade that are set in a compact manner. Logically speaking I don't understand how I can overcome this because on a big enough overhang, you have to be pulling down or back on the holds to be able to get purchase on them. Once your feet get high enough that pushes the rest of the body higher and suddenly that crimp that was ok has turned into a slopey crimp and I don't have enough on it to make the next move.I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move. Any tall climbers or people in the know have any advice as to how I can overcome this. I know I need to practice this as its an obvious weakness but its one of those issues that I don't even have a chance to try hard on it because I just peel off.Slopers are a weakness but at least when I fall off them I have tried really hard to hold them and its a lack of strength that is holding me back.
Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors once the grade gets up to about V7. Below that I can generally muscle and lank my way through the moves
I was wondering which wall you meant. I climb there a lot, not as tall as you (~ 6') so don't maybe have the same issues. 'I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move.'Out of interest which circuits/problems do you find particularly bad?I'm finding all the taped problems on the 50º nails, so have just been using any feet while i work them.
my tip would be to go down a few grades and try to do the problems without "lanking".try to use the high footholds, learn to fold yourself in between the holds. try to do the moves as they were meant to be done by the setters, the way short people have to do them. if the setters are any good, those movement skills will carry through.
Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique
quote author=Three Nine link=topic=25251.msg471328#msg471328 date=1420670432]Quote from: Sloper on January 07, 2015, 05:07:37 pmClimbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you techniqueOne of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
Quote from: Sloper on January 07, 2015, 05:07:37 pmClimbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you techniqueOne of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
I can't decide whether technique indoors is harder or easier than outdoors in some respects. Indoors you have potentially 4 points of contact in 4 specific locations usually. There isn't usually an option to use a worse foothold that is more comfortable for your size or strengths. You may have the choice of 20 foot placements on a real boulder when you only have a few choices on where to place your foot on an indoor hold.
Sloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.
Quote from: abarro81 on January 07, 2015, 09:52:39 pmSloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.<other problems are available>