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UKB power club week 253 15th Dec - 21st Dec (Read 8853 times)

mindfull

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UKB power club week 253 15th Dec - 21st Dec
December 21, 2014, 01:00:39 pm
Still in mental hospital  :(

Only floor and 2 dip bars to use. So lots of pushups and dips. Not really for training, but to let the agression out.
For pushups, I did sets of 10 for AnPow and sets of 20 for some more AnCap. As for the dips, 5 for AnPow, 10 for Ancap. No pullup possibility found in the whole building :-(

Weekdays: mental dip
SA: 230 pushups
SU: 75 dips, 100 pushups


fried

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All the best to you Mindfull..

M - Indoors - 2h plus some shoulder/ back stuff - bit achey
T- Nothing
W - Indoors - 2h plus some shoulder/ back stuff - bit more achey, good progress on some steep stuff.
T- Did some BM benchmarking
F - Indoors - 2h  - bit more achey. Nice session, finished off a fair bit of stuff, as strong as felt for a good while.
S - Nothing
S - Indoors - 1h, my shoulders finally gave in and I decided not to push it.

Start of a 7 day lock-down, where my only exercise is likely to be walking aroung gooutdoors.

csl

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December Goals
V8 Indoors - not gonna happen, easing off for a couple of weeks. Managed a couple of V7's.
Get out once
Climb something

Mon - Bouldering. Arch - mainly on the board, made up a few problems. Tried a few of the taped problems.
Tue - rest
Wed - rest
Thu - Arch - easy stuff
Fri - rest
Sat - Arch - easy stuff
Sun - rest

Chatting to someone with a full pulley rupture made me realise it would be wise to ease off for a couple of weeks till my fingers stop feeling so creaky. Off to Scotland winter climbing and general Christmas stuff anyway so will naturally do less, and hopefully recover before hammering the fingerboard + campusing in the new year.

tomtom

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Take it easy mindfull.. hope things improve..

For me: no climbing, just stretching and doing core/back exercises. Felt like I'd taken a step back this week ~ though hard to see whether there is any progress or not with good days and bad days... Just the 5 hour drive from Manchester to London (and back) over Xmas to endure...

Booked in to see a new physio/chiropracter on Monday... see what he says...

r-man

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No pullup possibility found in the whole building :-(


How about using tables? Just tried it and it seems to work, though obviously you need to be able to keep your legs up!

mindfull

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Thnx for the kind replies guys. And very best of luck Tomtom.

And the evening is young, so probably still a lot of dips and pushups to go. That's what helps me most at the moment. Not the meds or the shrinks. Hope to be released tomorrow. Back to pulling instead of pushing, or a least a good balance between the two.  :weakbench:

krymson

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Good luck Mindfull. If you want to vary it up consider planks, l-sits, archer pushups, handstands/handstand pushups  and yoga.

STG: healthy posture and shoulders while maintaining fitness for climbing..
MTG: a few 7as and bs in HK

M Yoga
T outdoors 6a, 6b, 7a all first go.
7a+ 2nd go after working the moves first go. Fought for the send!
W  Yoga, weights focusing on opening chest and learning to move with proper posture(shoulder blades back and down)
Th Outdoors - nothing hard.
F  stretch
Sa chill
Su Indoor bouldering - remembering how to pull hard.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2014, 04:17:26 pm by krymson »

lagerstarfish

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and yoga.

just be careful what you tell folk

psyche nurse - "why are you doing yoga?"

Mindfull "to get better at climbing"

psyche nurse "nope; no way this patient can be discharged today; they seem to think that yoga will help with climbing - at least they weren't trying to use running for the same end"

 ;)

good luck Mindfull - weekends are the shittest time to be on a psychiatric ward for a whole bunch of reasons - usually no access to any activities either

Luke Owens

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I've been out of Power Club for awhile, I've been really ill the last two weeks but i'm better now. Managed my first session in ages today at Nesscliffe, had a good day:

Did an awesome highball called "Joseph Mericks Pet Badger" (7A) and "Boosh that Badger" (6C) on the same wall. The 7A is one of the best problems I've done at Nesscliffe, it was first done last year on a newly developed wall called "Sally's Garden"

Then did the 3 6B+'s on the Hawk Wall: flashed "The Rampant Chopper", did "Moon Spinner" and "Buzz Meaks" in a few goes.

Muenchener

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STG (December): Another day on rock this year, weather permitting
    Indoor 7a redpoint.
    Arco at New Year
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine.
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T:
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Half an hour moderate bouldering to warm up then PE circuit (attempts) 7a 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 7a 6b
T: Half hour mobility, half hour kettlebells & core. 3 per side TGUs, 2 x 35 swings @20kg
F: Christmas party with demonstrations at my son's karate school. Aroused a twinge of nostalgia for my martial arts days (a long time ago now)
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. More enjoyable session than Wednesday with more blocs and fewer circuits.
S: Knee physio/mobility. Kettlebell 20k 4 per side TGU, 1x35 swings. 20 minutes step-ups w/15kg rucksack

cheque

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Hold tight Mindfull.

M-F: Ill with persistent draining manflu.  :sick:

S- Notts Depot.Not sure how well I was so warmed up really easy- entire purple (easiest) boulder circuit. Felt fine so did the blue (second easiest) circuit. Flashed them all which is unimpressive but better than the last time I tried the blues! Worked as-yet-unsent competition problems after. Felt like I'd had a workout after that!

S- Eating/ walking about in Bakewell.

JackAus

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STG: Maybe more V7s, maybe DWS project. Abit all up in the air, depends on where I am...
MTG: Sushi Train V8.
LTG: V11.

M:
T: Indoors.
W:
T: Indoors. Mileage, lots of mileage. Did everything in there V3 and under (70+ problems), flashing all of them apart from a V0 where my foot popped off the biggest hold there... Then worked some of the harder things.
F: Last day of work for the year. Spent the arvo in the pub.
S: Hungover. Funky Town in the pm. Cleaned up some stuff, broke some holds, got scared. The usual. Did some awesome problems though.
S: Early AM session at Alfords Point. 1st time here so worked Stringybark Massacre V7 (Sydney classic). Got all the moves but no way could I link it. Also tried the stand start to Love Gun (sit gets V10, stand gets V7). Nearly did it one attempt but all others felt horrible.

andybfreeman

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Thoughts are with mindfull

Season 1 of my periodised plan is stil underway. Nearly derailed this week by a tweaked shoulder but fortunately managed to curtail myself long nough to let it settle down

M - rest
Tu - PE session culminating in Linked Boulder Circuits. Improved performance on previous session (rest maintained but number of laps increased) but tweaked shoulder with a pressy move in final problem of circuit.
W - planned rest
Th - extra rest
F - more rest
Sa - PE session. Used warm up to redesign my circuit, avoiding the problem with the shoulder press but maintaining difficulty. New PB on no of laps. Shoulder fine pulling, just need to be careful pressing :)
Su - rest

Weight looking good. Average 69.3 last week

T_B

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No weigh in as no scales at in laws  :-\

M - Lunch - School. General bouldering, nothing too hard. 40 leg pulls. 100 leg raises. Felt quite good.
T -
W - Lunch Wave bouldering. 100 leg raises.
T - P.M. Works 12 wasps - easy session
F -
S - Highball Norwich. 19 problems of the 25 set problems on the comp wall from their 1st round of the winter bouldering series. Set by Ben West - really good problems. Climbed with the missus for 2 hours, which was a treat (kids with in laws). Not been on comp-style problems for ages, so a bit rusty.
S - 25 mins jog (can't really call it a 'run') to get rid of hangover after night out in Norwich. First time since breaking my heel 15 months ago. Legs/cardio fine, ankle sore but not that bad... limping a bit towards the end.

In Norfolk all week, so plan on doing some more running to try and keep the lard at bay. My fingers felt tired still on Saturday... will climb once (maybe twice) in the week this week and then do the Highball comp on Sunday. If fingers still achey after that, I might have to take a break in the NY? Or at least have a couple of weeks of doing AeroCap and strength. Haven't got a training plan for the NY anyway, as don't know what I'll be training for yet.

tommytwotone

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LTG: Font 7b


M: 5 secs x 5 holds x 3 sets on Beastmaker in cellar
T: Day off work as Fiona back in, took Una to nursery for first time without one of us staying. She took to it OK so I went off to The Depot. Bit of a crap session as I/the wall were both very cold. Struggled to repeat things I'd done before, got a bit flash-pumped trying to get/stay warm.
W: Nowt, off again but full day of looking after Una.
T: Back to work, then unanticipated opportunity to get to wall in eve so shot out. Good session, ticked off a few projects and did another 5 sec x 5 holds x 3 sets on Beastmaker there.
F: Off again, full day of looking after Una. Works Xmas do in eve...
S: Hungover, picked Mum up from Leeds station, pub quiz in evening inc hair of dog.
S: Sister came up so had massive Sunday lunch, then went home and polished off a bottle of Moet. Thought Sloper would approve.




kelvin

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Take care mindfull

Manflu in full flow round here.

2 x yoga classes

Fri - Froggatt. Rained all day, so got cold and felt rougher again. Seconded some chimney thing.

Sat - Wharncliffe. Nice day but lungs were shot. Seconded some E1 arete to halway, couldn't catch my breath, started heaving... bailed. Wrapped up in all available clothing and just belayed.

Sun - Froggatt. Didn't ever dry out really. Still feeling chesty but seconded Chequers Buttress. Legs got pumped for the first time ever! Just couldn't breathe and ran out of go at the top. Pottered about for the rest of the arvo.

Total write off this week really. Sacking off the Peak on Xmas day and heading to the cottage in Capel, there's more options in Wales when the weather is as flaky as some of my ex girlfriends.

rginns

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Pretty shit week all said. Working away has limited any training although had a pretty good couple of hours at Wilton which made the week.

65 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs)

M - Nothing, travel to Belgium
T - on site all day, with customers in evening
W - on site all day, ferry in evening. I was chomping at the bit to get something done, and without any pull up possibilities in the cell (cabin), I decided on push ups. I never do push ups, but did 76 in 13 minutes.
Suffice to say it destroyed my triceps and pecs. It was actually quite painful afterwards
T - nothing - sore arms
F - ditto. Works Christmas do when we all pretend we like each other. Nice meal. Was driving. Left early.
S - mini-session at Wilton 1 after much scoping of possible projects for the New Year. SB wall completely dry. Good conditions. Managed SB RH 6B+ which I've not done before and worked on Thulsa Doom 7A+. Not bad progress on this, one to add maybe? Good dry option.
S - Christmas markets

duncan

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STG - get over shoulder tweak, ease back into fingerboarding.
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M - Shoulder stability exercises
T - Westway: x10 easy laps
W - Shoulder stability exercises
T -  Shoulder stability exercises
F - Westway: routes to 6c.
S - Birthdays, family stuff.
S - Fingerboard warm-up (1-3 second hangs). Tristan und Isolde at the Royal Opera House  :punk:

Shoulder about 65%, slowly getting there.

webbo

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Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Packing boxes and taking down curtain rails.
Wed. Turbo 1 hour and more packing.
Thu. Turbo 1 hour and taking wardrobes apart.
Fri. Nothing apart from wifes works do.
Sat. Packing and the start cleaning up now as house is empty of furniture. Try to blow up air bed. Fail!! go out and buy a pump (and a half price down jacket)
Sun. Finish cleaning decide to go for a ride. Blow up tyres which results in valve failing,get new inner tube out of saddle pack. However it won't blow up as its got a hole in it, repeat this with second spair inner tube. Go out and by some new inner tubes.
Finally bike for 2 hours really hard in the wind.

tommytwotone

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...Try to blow up air bed. Fail!! go out and buy a pump (and a half price down jacket)


I take it this was a trip to Aldi?


Last time I went I got some cheap naan breads, but passed on the crash helmet and the wetsuit.





Dolly

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A week interrupted by illness again


M Foundry Wave. Felt like I was coming down with something, sore throat etc. Had a good time though. T_B  - you were on the wave on Monday -not the school :)
T ill off work
W ill partially off work
T work but tired. Light kettlebell sess in the evening
F Beastmaker
S Gym core
S Went in search of dry rock with no success. Spent too long driving and walking round when I should have just come home. Great hard shed sess in the early evening


 

webbo

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...Try to blow up air bed. Fail!! go out and buy a pump (and a half price down jacket)


I take it this was a trip to Aldi?


Last time I went I got some cheap naan breads, but passed on the crash helmet and the wetsuit.

No go outdoors half price Rab jackets

T_B

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M Foundry Wave. Felt like I was coming down with something, sore throat etc. Had a good time though. T_B  - you were on the wave on Monday -not the school :)


Oops - got Wednesday and Monday mixed up

tomtom

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...Try to blow up air bed. Fail!! go out and buy a pump (and a half price down jacket)


I take it this was a trip to Aldi?


Last time I went I got some cheap naan breads, but passed on the crash helmet and the wetsuit.

It never goes the other way around does it... when was the last time you went to the bike shop but came home with a bottle of unbranded frascati and a kg of cheddar?

andy popp

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Did an awesome highball called "Joseph Mericks Pet Badger" (7A) and "Boosh that Badger" (6C) on the same wall. The 7A is one of the best problems I've done at Nesscliffe, it was first done last year on a newly developed wall called "Sally's Garden"

Interesting! I've had it in mind to check this wall out when I'm passing some day. Was it clean? (kind of surprised it was dry actually)

 

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