Late posting this week, almost wasn't going to bother because I had an easy week.
STG: fix fingers, probably not very short term at this stage. 7A+ nemesis
MTG: stay healthy, fingers and shoulders and more 7Bs
M: get screwed by a last minute meeting rearrangement so don't get to the wall.
T. shoulder stability with weights, reverse flys (flies?) etc
W. first session at new bouldering wall. great setting and closer to home so all positive. Just pottering trying quality problems. All finally got finger diagnosis of collateral ligament damage from physio, as suspected and she basically said keep going as you were.
T-F. shoulder stability stuff at home
S. outdoor session on STG nemesis. weird session where I once got to last move and it felt ridiculously easy til my foot slipped, loss of tension i think. all the rest of the day, both before \and after I could barely do the start moves. I'm being a bit obsessive with this problem, I should leave it til the finger is better and I can crimp on the start holds but I'm enjoying the challenge of getting around the injury (and I'll take 7B for it too as many have suggested). Every week I go back and a different move feels hard. I've decided to try to get footage of myself and see what's going wrong.
Looking forward to getting outdoors as much as possible over the holidays and then getting back to training once the finger is better.
