[fried]

M - W - Still sick, and being (effectively) freelance means I just go to work, come home, eat, sleep.
Thurs - Feeling much better, do a couple of BM sets.
Fri - Tired but drag myself to the wall for a session, really enjoyed it. Changed my wall for a change to Arkose, I like this place, shame it's a bit small...or maybe that would stop me getting distracted.
Sat - nothing
Sun - Indoor, easy session, lots of volume.

STG - 1 more real week of work, then hopefully get a couple of sessions outside before the usual week of sitting on the sofa watching the kids get sillier and sillier.

[Muenchener]

STG (December): Another day on rock this year, weather permitting
    Indoor 7a redpoint.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine.
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Half hour foam rolling & stretching
T: Read Steve Bechtel's Power Endurance training booklet on Kindle Unlimited and was inspired to do eight sets of Beastmaker max hangs. (I hate 7-3 repeaters. I'm aware that this probably means they are what I should be doing)
W:
T:   8 sets of Beastmaker max hangs same as Tuesday. Shoulder stability stuff & 2x30 kb swings to warm up
F: Stair climbing 3 x 40 stories.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. 2 x 20 minutes ARC

[tomtom]

A week of rehab and hopefully recovery from back injury.

No climbing, but my days consist of 2-3 half hour sessions of stretching and core/back exercises.. Its been a tough week - away in the Netherlands from Monday to Wednesday - and all the the travelling took its toll. Trains are OK - and the hour flight to Schipol is bearable, but the Dutch train system borked on weds, and three of us had to get a 2 hour taxi ride to Schipol (Eu390....) in a low slung Merc that wasnt comfortable.

Still not sleeping properly - waking up multiple times with cramps/aches etc... but getting better. Physio on friday was less brutal than usual - and a lengthy acupuncture session at the beginning may have loosened things off.. So by this weekend I'm feeling a bit more free and flexible.. even forgot about it for an hour or so!

Onwards - doubt I'll climb again this year - but the Physio did say I can start to deadhang again..

[webbo]

Mon. Board did a project first go,repeated a few things including a problem that was once a long term project. Felt steady. Climbed well to say I'd biked 80 miles yesterday.
Tue nothing
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board just repeating things not a bad session.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board mirror session, struggling a bit. Bike 35.63 miles 1 hr 59 mins 17.83 mph.
Sun. Bike 45.37 miles 2 hrs32 mins 17.85 mph.
Struggling a bit at the moment with work stress and pending house move.

[csl]

December Goals
V8 Indoors
Get out once
Climb something

Winter
Climb 7c+
Any taped boulder on Biscuit Factory 50 degree board

Mon-Fri - Rest week. Had one boulder session, onsighted about 20 of the comp problems up to V6.
Sat - Roaches. Basically failed to do anything. Tried Nadin's Traverse, failed. Too cold for me to do trad. Tried the big dyno - tickled the hold a bit, but failed.
Sun - Rain and Snow.

[csl]

Edit: Sunday - felt a bit crap about how little I got done yesterday. So went to the Biscuit Factory and managed some boulders up to V7 on the comp wall.

[shark]

11.10-11

M. Early AM  Pre breakfast crimping on fingerboard to get back into it.  PM Systems Board. Played about. Not too shoddy but felt tired after so ditched the idea of AeroCap.
T. AM  Physio.
W. Systems board - another play. Developed a mild cold.
T. AM Dentist for a filling then Physio. We agreed left shoulder recovered enough to recommence payment for sessions. Setbacks at work. Slept in afternoon.
F. Still felt rundown from cold. Finally dragged myself out of office to have a go on systems board. Pulled boots on and lights went out. Power cut. Typical. Eve. Bit of fingerboarding and got stuck in to putting holds on new home woodie
S. All day BMC meeting in Manchester
S. Managed to reverse in to paper recycling skip and smash rear window. Cheered myself up by having a play on new woodie and trying Oak replica moves.

Pretty shit week until this evening. The new board is only 25 degrees or so but this is far more like the Oak in angle. Getting a consignment of Crusher Gaskins style C Hold crimps to add to it. Not felt so keen since since Kalymnos.

[cheque]

S. Managed to reverse in to paper recycling skip and smash rear window.

Ouch. I did a similar job on my car too.

M- Rest. Very thin skin from previous days grit bouldering.

T- Rest.

W- Nothing.

T- Notts Depot. Felt knackered in the day but got a boost of energy in time for climbing. Four redpoint burns on red circuit board circuit- didn't do it but got a few moves further along. Power endurance is the stopper but working this circuit is, after all, meant to train that so not dismayed. Found out there was a new set of 30 comp problems so set about them- flashed the first 22, did 23 fourth go for a total of 224 points- my best ever, 4 more than this time last year. 

F- Rest.

S- At Black Rocks for 7:30AM. filmed 'til dark, filling both memory cards and using up both batteries! Carrying my crane up there felt easier than last time which is good.

S- Rest. Really tired, week of early mornings caught up with me.

Loads of work with early starts this week so pleased to get anything out of it really. Pretty pleased to be at my best on indoor bouldering mainly as a reassurance that my injured days are, after almost exactly a year, fully over- fingers feel totally fine. 

[JackAus]

Indoors pretty much every day except for the weekend. Nothing worth noting.

[kelvin]

Mon - No grades up on the new set in the boulder room and only half a set but flashed most stuff on the vert and slab, two goes for the rest apart from a hard blue and a red. Blue turns out to be V4 and the red V2... I can pull on the red but can't for the life of me move off it. There's also a tiger that Alex showed me the moves on but without fingers of steel, it feels way harder than the V2 he grades it next day. Did three hours and even went on the 45 and roof. Looked at the grades on Tuesday and find I've managed to flash a few V2s and failed miserably on others. So I'm 'officially' bouldering worse than I have in oh, maybe 18 months. From flashing the odd V4 and most V3s, I now can't even manage the V2s. That's progress for you. Utterly dispiriting. I shouldn't let indoor grading get to me but it seems I can actually do better in Font itself...

Tue - Aerocap after two hard sessions Sun and Mon. Boulder warmup, then 2x4 twice on a f5 and then 1x10 on a f5+.

Wed - Boulder warmup, then got on the fingerboard. Fingers seemed okay, so need to sort a plan of action. Yoga class.

Thu - Rest day. Yoga class.

Fri -Busy.

Sat - Rivelin. Led the easiest E1 in the world, some HS crack and also tried to second The Tempest E5 6B. Nails. Really was, just couldn't yard on the tiny slopery crimps and not flexible enough in the hips to get my foot high enough whilst flat against the rock.

Sun - Went to Bamford, Gardoms and Curbar but dashed by the weather each time. Was quite optimistic at one point but it rained again so did a jigsaw with Johnny Dawes instead.

Lost my way at the end of the week through no fault of my own but need to focus, then train hard at the start of this week as the same may happen again.

[Dolly]

Tried to do more this week, but its hard to get in the hours
M Pilates
T Foundry Wave at lunchtime. Brilliant fun. Trying problems that Rob had just set.
W Quick kettlebells and core sess at the gym
T Shed. Pulled hard
F
S Stanage on one of those cold clear days. Not everything was mint but a lot of it was. Did a few things I hadnt done before, failed on some more and did some old classics. Pleased to do Mono Slab which isnt all over when you get the mono. My skin is still torn now. Also did NTBTA for the first time (embarassing I know) I tried it once about 18 years ago (before we had mats) and got scared and jumped off. Needless to say its brilliant and I cant believe I left it so long. A brilliant day with Norton and Joe P en familles, topped off with Moonshine in the Norfolk Arms and then hearing Wednesday win away at Blackburn on the way home in the car with the last kick of the game. Just one of those days.
S Gym for some core and a bit of aero.


Much better week. I think I need to work out how to squeeze in more climbing as there just arent enough hours in the week.

[andybfreeman]

Season 1 of periodised plan

M - Rest
Tu - Limit bouldering session., Found t hard to dial in the required difficulty and found myself flashing things I thought should be hard(er).
We - rest and skin care
Th - Campus session. Skin sore and no PBs but still felt like a good session
F - rest
Sa - rest
Su - weather crappy so LB outdoors was sacked off in favour of an indoor session. New gym so lots of fun trying new routes. O/s up to 26 (soft surely) and finished with some limit moves on the boulder wall for the sake of the plan

Weight - average for last week and this morning's score were the same, 69.8kg. I've almost completely cut chocolate and booze but made not other changes to diet

[T_B]

84.7Kg (pretty amazed this isn't more considering this week's eating/booze)

M -
T - School p.m. weights and assisted one armers. Bench pressed 60Kg (3 reps). Did a few flys but need some better dumb bells.
W -
T - Lunch Foundry Wave. General bouldering.
F -
S -
S - Dragged myself to the School at 8pm after tiring weekend away for Work's do at Plas y Brenin including cooked breakfasts etc. Pretty rubbish bouldering, then did some campussing (managed 1-5-8 on right), bench presses and 100 leg pulls. Felt less guilty.

Got to try and have a healthier week this week, though still intend to take it a bit easier and not pull on my fingers too much. 3 weeks until the Highball Comp, which I'm hoping to do.

[duncan]

STG - 3 training sessions a week. Rehab. shoulder to the point where I can start finger-boarding again. Stabilise weight.
MTG - 7b this winter. Unlikely to be by end of this year now,
LTG - under review, see Aims for 2015 at some point this week.

Missed 3 weeks due to "battered shoulder" turning out to be a bit more than that. Weight has increased considerably (scales broken not coincidentally but the mirror does not lie).

Managed 3 sessions at the wall this week - now up to 10 laps of easy stuff.

[cheque]

I shouldn't let indoor grading get to me but it seems I can actually do better in Font itself...

That sounds like a YYFY to me.

[rginns]

 b   

[abarro81]

then did some campussing (managed 1-5-8 on right), bench presses and 100 leg pulls. Felt less guilty.

  Which rungs? (Not that it matters that much, I find 1-5-8 a distant dream on any of them)

[rginns]

Firstly. thanks for everyone's messages and thoughts about our youngest last week, It was a terrifying episode with apparently no discernible cause, but the good news is she is back to being her normal cheeky self. At least we know what to do if it happens again. Hopefully it never will.

Ok... Although it feels like I didn't do much, it wasn't a bad week in fairness, managed to get out for a few quick hits all on problems on the Winter list, and got some decent other training done too.
I've taken ONE 'ha' off the LTG. This indicates a massive increase in self-belief.

63 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs)

M -  PM - Pull Up session: 1 min on / 1 min off: 20,15,12,12,12,12,12 (95 in 13mins). Ab Ripper X - 20 reps each exercise (felt tough)
T -  AM - Run 4.4Km 23:32 PB for this particular run. Quite pleased..
W - Lunchtime - mini-session on Hanks Wall (7A+). Got to previous high point, I find this really sequency - I haven't found the right one yet!
T - Lunchtime - mini-session on Boopers Sitter (7A). Could pull on into the stand up after about 15 minutes(i.e. do the hard move). On the next go I fell from the top move because I annoyingly neglected to think about the last move. I all but did it, it will go down easy next time. Pleased to almost do a 7A in a half hour session.
F - Lunchtime - mini-session on Ridiculous eliminate (7A+) Great cold conditions, so wanted to get on this one. Managed to hold the 'protrusions' long enough to adjust feet and throw for the top - best effort so far but no cigar yet, it's a big throw....
  - Evening - Fingerboard session - poor session, missed out 3 finger shallow hang and reduced other times to 5s/5s, felt beasted, but mixed 5x bicep curls/5 x shoulder press (8Kg / dumbell) in between each set  Leg raises 5,5,5,5
S - Rest
S - Rest / Eldests birthday party

Although the lunchtime sessions are frustratingly short (I often find myself having to go just as I'm getting somewhere) when added together, I'm finding I'm making good progress on the winter projects. I got some weights this week to either add as a weight belt for hangs or otherwise use as part of training so I need to do a bit of homework to work out the best lifts that will translate to climbing.

[gme]

then did some campussing (managed 1-5-8 on right), bench presses and 100 leg pulls. Felt less guilty.

  Which rungs? (Not that it matters that much, I find 1-5-8 a distant dream on any of them)

I dont think he had his feet on either.

[T_B]

then did some campussing (managed 1-5-8 on right), bench presses and 100 leg pulls. Felt less guilty.

  Which rungs? (Not that it matters that much, I find 1-5-8 a distant dream on any of them)

The 25mm ones in the middle. I've not really tried using the smaller rungs as I find those balls get in the way of my wrists.

[ummagumma]

STG: Finish cleaning project
MTG: Climb Project. Follow a training program. Get out every weekend (weather permitting).
Power Training Week 1/3
Tues: Power Session.  Set up problems. Some good max effort problems.

Wed: Yoga AM

Thurs: Power Session. Similar to Tue. Added one new problem. Felt tired.

Sat: Dropped this session as was tired and weather was crap.

Sun: Outddoor Bouldering. Weather was crap but found some dryish problems. Good to be outside after week cooked up in the office. Some warm ups and then two easy stand start problems. Skipped the sitters as they were still wet. Highlight was attempting a 7A Roof Problem. Broke it down to 4 overlapping sections. Crux is releasing and controlling a double toe hook. Nice problem. Powerful and requires good core - my weaknesses. I'm add it to my ticklist.

[shark]

STG: the eternal quest for a front lever

Progress with levers seems to have plateau'd so I think I will sack it off as a goal. I actually did something close to a full lever on Monday after climbing - which has since proved totally unreplicable (why?).

One thought. Are you looking at your toes when trying or throwing your neck back. The latter makes it easier. I'm not sure how widely known this is. Apologies if you knew already.

[Schnell]

STG, fix fingers and cold
MTG, a few boulder projects to do in 7Bish range, fix shoulder stability issues and keep injury free

miserable week this one, took enforced rest because I was sick, headaches and fatigue for a week. I had all the nasty side-effects of a bad cold without actually having one at all. ie no cough/blocked nose etc. still hasn't gone away either.

M. tried to climb but gave up after 45mins
T-F. working then retreating to bed, expect for wednesday evening when i got dragged to a late showing of 2001 a space odyssey where the annoying flashing lights kept disturbing my snooze.

S. felt better so ventured outdoors and was predictably shit, backwards progress on proj etc. I would have had an easy pottering day but it was cold and windy.
S. back to feeling ill.

One positive to this illness is that I'm not getting frustrated by my finger injury which is benefiting from lots of rest. I reckon combined work and exercise fatigue is probably what's making me ill but I've just finished a big work project so the stress should be lessened and late-nights less frequent.

[nathanie1]

STG: Ben's groove, Fight on the black, Ju ju club
MTG: 7C, all the 7B+s at Caley
LTG: Zoo York, Jason's roof, Rhythm

M - rest, I think
T - brief lamp session at Caley, not much climbing
W - rest, yoga, antagonistic training
T - back to Caley, finally got on ju ju club, sussed all the moves, but the top out was too green to try
F - antagonistic training
S - Caley again, very excited to see that Ben's Groove was clean and chalked! 10 minutes later I was spat off the top out with very green hands, gutted. The top was filthy and the sun had set. Another day.
S - Drove to Widdop and the weather was fluctuating between blues skies and intense hail on a continuous 20 minute cycle. Widdop looked gloomy so we opted for the ever smiling Scout crag. Between blizzards I managed to bag Boggy's Roof 7B, perhaps the best problem I've been on this year

No plastic this week and my finger is feeling much better.

Plan - Recovery. Antagonistic training, dramatically improve shoulder flexibility, strengthen my lower back. Tempted to get on a campus board and train power. Perhaps even make an actual training plan, but I've been saying that for months.

[kelvin]

I shouldn't let indoor grading get to me but it seems I can actually do better in Font itself...

That sounds like a YYFY to me.

If there was a 'It makes my head spin' thread about grading...

[krymson]

STG: Correct muscle imbalances and posture 100%
MTG: 7b
VLTG: Go on a date with Mina Markovic

Tu: Indoor Bouldering. non-noteworthy performance but did manage to pull some hard moves for a good training effect.
Th: Indoor lead climbing - mostly vertical wall with some roofs. Did well.
Fr: Weights - shoulder stuff, deadlifts.
Sa: Outdoors - warmed up, repeated a 7a+, worked a 7a, sent it next go. Worked a different 7a on tr a bit and made good links but ran out of time.
Su: Outdoors - warmed up and sent a long standing 6c+ project, then went home to take care of work.
A much lower number than my other recent sends but super satisfying for me as it is a fun but poorly bolted sport climb that i have taken bad falls on. Keeping it together through the sketchy section and sending it with a bunch of cute girls were watching made it pretty proud send as I usually don't do well under those conditions.

[nik at work]

Late to the party this week...
STG Climb! Outside!!
MTG Cave projects, a n hard trad project, 8c
LTG 9a

M - BM session, rubbish, start feeling unwell
T - ill
W - BM session. Better, try another new regime which I am christening 20:20. 20s hangs with +20kg weight. Manage all holds two handed apart from 45's (10s) and ring finger mono's (17s)
T - swimming, 40 lengths
F - nothing
S - DIY
S - DIY then manage to blag a climbing wall trip for 90 minutes. Do all the boulder problems in the current round of the boulder league (30 problems, special double sized crimbo round) flash 29 problems, problem 30 takes a couple of goes. Then do all the harder routes onsight as doubles (climb up route, downclimb it, then climb another route, lower off) as wall is only about 7 metres high total of 14 routes so 7 times on a rope.

Considering being ill quite a good week but still not enough climbing. Training isn't sustainable as a main climbing activity indefinitely. I think it is going to be my only option until after christmas though, so on with the grind...