I did a decent new problem on the upper blocks above Black Rocks last week following a bit of summer cleaning and a few post injury/warm up attempts. It basically climbs the left hand side of the arête taken by Dolly. Tricky clamping and layaways low down then then easier but high stuff to finish. All very satisfying
Amethyst Deceiver 6c (ish) - I've tried it quite a few times and in the end it felt okay with 'the knack' and some good conditions.
All the easy problems on the Black Rocks upper blocks look like they've had a clean recently. The new problem is in mint condition (after a dry day!) and I've given the holds I use on Dolly a good clean too. Dolly at 6b is a South Peak hidden gem and well worth checking out.
Pre injury I bracken flogged down to the 'Chicken Slab' on Stanton Moor and climbed the left arête of the slab on both sides. Left side is Chicken Wing 5 and right side Chicken Boy 6a. Fairly low quality but makes the short trek down for Chicken Ginger more worthwhile. Chicken Ginger is/was also clean and is another high quality but rarely travelled bit of slabdabbery which is worth seeking out.
