[T_B]

83.9Kg

STG - not one for stating goals, as flexibility is the key for me. But at the moment, I'm mostly psyched for various problems on the schoolroom 50 degree board around 7C (most of which I climbed 13/14 years ago). They are just about starting to feel possible. Plan to do the Highball comp in Norwich on 27 December (came 2nd last year).

M - F/board p.m. 6 x open front 3, did 4 of back three. 6 x half-crimped on 15mm edge. So a lot better than 26 October. 40 press ups. Some lock offs and attempts at front levers.
T - School - p.m. mainly on 30 degree with Dave P, then did white 7a+ on big board. Fingers tired by the end of it and couldn't really climb properly as giggling too much.
W -
T - Works p.m. 40 minutes pre-curry doing some yellows and white with Eric. V light sess.
F - School - lunch. Did wood with black squares on big board (7a+?). Lacked focus, some bench presses.
S - Pulled middle of back (yesterday's bench presses?). Swimming with kids. Some stretching.
S - Back better. School p.m. nearly didn't go as knackered but had brilliant session making progress on around 6 problems in the 7C range on the 50 degree. Still no new ticks though! Finished with 40 press ups.

Really enjoying indoor bouldering, getting stronger and not being too focussed as such. Plan to do some more stretching, core and bench presses this week.

[LB]

STG: Look after knee
MTG: 7B this winter, (english) 8a next summer after (spanish) 7c+ last year.
LTG:

M:
T: Can reach third rung of campus board from floor so did some up and down on this 2 x (4 x 30 sec//2min)//15 min. Flyes, Dips on rings.
W: Elbow stuff.
T: am: FB (Max Hangs with some pull ups on slopers, 18 holds OA, 6 both arms), pm: FB (5 on 10 off, 2 sets of 4)
F: Weighted Pull ups and Rows (on a bar), 17kg 3 x 6 on each. Foot-on-Campus 20 mins (knee swelled up badly later, stupid)
S:
S: CB as on Tuesday. Felt powered out quicker.  Pseudo-back Lever work, Reverse grip Push up on rings, OA Plank on Rings.


In general I was tired this week, probably because of my knee, but I was pleased with working out all the things I could do.

I'm concerned that doing what I think is AnCap on the CB is probably a) dangerous for my elbows although I feel robust right now and I could do repeaters instead one day  and b) pointless with absolutely no AeroCap of any kind.

Will do more strength work next week on rings. Might try Foot on Campussing one footed with 10-on-10-off instead

Bending knee a tiny amount when walking. Hurts whenever there is sideways movement. 2 weeks since injury. Improving. Definitely feeling very lucky it wasn't worse.

[LB]

Sounding like the trip is really shaping up Sas. Looking forward to hearing about the send of Mandala.

[cheque]

STG- Finger rehab.

2014 goals- 20 11 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport (won't happen) and bouldering (probably won't either).

LTG- 8a sport, classic trad routes that currently seem way out of my league.

M- Nothing.

T- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

T- Notts Depot. New circuit board circuits! Flashed the easiest two, did the next one second go then, flushed with success, did pretty well on the next hardest one, which is called 7a+. Doesn't seem too bad as I got quite far in one go. Did some red boulder problems after- felt quite powered out but had fun.

F- Rest.

S- Black Rocks. Super misty and the north side is almost as damp and slimy as I've ever seen it.  Collected lots of rubbish and tested my new awesome camera crane  though. This definitely counts as what Duncan calls "building site fitness" with a good bit of cardio thrown in- the crane is roughly 20kg of metal on top of the 5kg of camera gear I routinely carry around, making the slog up to the crag a breathless affair!

S- Notts Depot. Cleaned up most of the red problems: went much easier when fresh. Got on the "7a+" circuit after. Very close to redpointing it. It's ideal for me, pure endurance with no crux moves.

Still doing stretches every day- it's amazing how much these have improved how my fingers feel after climbing. Physio follow up on Thursday.

[Ti_pin_man]

as usual I've been slack at posting up progress/diary entries, I'm not good at it but thank fully I'm not a slacker when it comes to training.  Last time I posted I got my STG: 7a on plastic.  That was some weeks ago and on week 4 of a 12 week plan.  So I've pretty much followed the plan and now have a second and loads more 6c's.  I have 2 weeks left and I'm looking for another.  Going to continue the program routine until Xmas and then review next goal.  I guess next goal will be consolidation and maybe aim to get a 7a on a route that isn't typically  me, a roof, or something.  ha.  onwards and upwards.

[Schnell]

STG; fix a2 tweak, shoulder stability
MTG, local classic 7B/+, arrange route or bouldering trip around new year

M. after taking fri, sat, sun off I had reasonable indoor session but I was a bit overenthusiastic and ended up setting the finger rehab back a bit
T.
W. another indoor session being ultra careful about not crimping or using any holds that require my middle finger to be bent at the second joint. I worked out a finger boarding programme involving sets of index and  back two crimping, feet on the ground, to work around the injury
T.
F. same as wed, finger slightly better and lots of shoulder stability stuff done.
S.
S. very tempted to go outside bouldering by the first weather window in two weeks, but I decided it'd be bad for the finger. reasonable indoor session instead

boring week but I'm just being careful with the finger. I hope to have it rehabbed in two weeks and then back to MTG.

[Fiend]

  OKAY I CAN'T TAKE IT ANY MORE....... I HAVE TO KNOW!!!

Cheque, what are you doing / filming at Black Rocks?? Just out of curiosity...

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7b (seems a long way off right now...)


M: Having moved house over weekend went back to the old house and spent hours cleaning the rental place so we get our deposit back. Got home and started the mission of unpacking.
T: More unpacking.
W: More unpacking.
T: Day off for Fiona's birthday - nice trip to Whitby for the afternoon, did some epic walking/buggy pushing, hardcore shivering and serious fish and chip lunch eating.
F: Went to the gym for first time in about a month and equalled my deadlift PB with 90kg. Must be all the shifting boxes.
S: Went to the wall for the first time in about a month and flashed a yellow (V7+). Must be a very easy one.
S: Family birthday lunch for Fiona...made up for good progress previous two days by eating loads inc. crackling and drinking some Ilkley Brewery Mary Jane.


Finally feel like we've broken the back of sorting the new house out. Problem is the cellar has been the dumping ground for most of the stuff above ground level so now I can't get to my newly-mounted Beastmaker. One to be addressed once "front of house" is sorted methinks.

[cheque]

OKAY I CAN'T TAKE IT ANY MORE....... I HAVE TO KNOW!!!

Cheque, what are you doing / filming at Black Rocks?? Just out of curiosity...

I'm making a film about it! Well, the climbing there anyway. It started as a simple "I'll go to the crag with some mates and make a daft film of ourselves scraping around in dirty gullies" idea and has morphed into something that's temporarily taken over my life  but will hopefully yield an entertaining film that illustrates a crag I love and possibly gets more people to visit and/ or to be more imaginative in the routes they climb when they do.

If you want to be in it you'd be more than welcome (this goes for everyone on here)- all I need is for you to climb a route and do a little bit of talking about the route and the crag itself.

[Fiend]

Cool, sounds like you are putting a lot of effort into it.

If I am ever down in the area I will send you a message.

[tomtom]

Just been to see a physio - who seemed very knowledgable. Good news is my back is ok - bad news is I have a damaged glute - maybe a pinched nerve too

Arse. Indeed.

Does this mean I can fingerboard? Only fingerboard?

[Luke Owens]

I missed last week, been busy with my new job so not spent a lot of time online.

W/C 3rd Nov
M: Can't remember

T: Can't remember

W: 30 Mins Aerocap

T: Rest

F: Work Gym - 15 Wide Grip Pull ups
10 x 10 Front Shoulder Raise (10kg)
2 x 10 Tricep Curl (Both Arms) (10kg)
2 x 10 Shoulder Rotation with Shoulder Press (5kg)
4 x 10 Hanging Knee Tucks
2 x 10 Ab roll out (wheel)
4 x 1min Side Plank
2 x 1min Front Plank

S: Rest

S: Llanymynech - Freezing on the belay but too hot on the wall... Warmed up repeating Crab Stick (6c).

Fell off after the crux on The Ancient Mariner (7a+) again, pumped out of my mind, couldn't get enough back on the slopey hand holds with poor feet. Heavens opened on the upper section and I had to leave a krab in (again). The one I left in the same spot (for the same reason) a month ago had been taken... urgh!

Did some deadhangs when I got home,

All 10sec hangs:
Slopers - 1 hand on 20s one hand on 30s
Alternate hands of above
Middle 2 - 20mm pocket
1 hand on 30mm 1 hand on 15mm
Alternate hands of above

Then repeated the above

W/C 10th Nov
M: Rest

T: Boardroom routes - 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b
Failed on 2x 6b+, 2 x 6c. Felt like crap all evening, had no energy and was sweating loads... Belayer disappeared so did 3 x V4 and 5 x V2

W: Rest

T: Work Gym - 15 Wide Grip Pull ups
10 x 10 Front Shoulder Raise (10kg)
2 x 10 Tricep Curl (Both Arms) (10kg)
2 x 10 Shoulder Rotation with Shoulder Press (5kg)
4 x 10 Hanging Knee Tucks
2 x 10 Ab roll out (wheel)
4 x 1min Side Plank
2 x 1min Front Plank

F: 30 Mins Aerocap

S: Pen Trwyn - Put the clips and worked out the moves on Bloodsports (7b). Felt easy on the dog, had a go on lead but hadn't worked out the start properly. Spent ages working out a good sequence and it just got too cold.

Onsighted a 6b, a 6a and did the moves on some short 7a but didn't bother for a redpoint.

Getting a bit cold for sport climbing now... Especially out of the sun!

S: Rest