[csl]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

Winter Goals
Climb 7c+
Any taped boulder on Biscuit Factory 50 degree board

Mon - Rest
Tue - Bouldering + Circuits. Onsighted all circuits up to 7a+ and did a few boulders up to V5.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Biscuit Factory, hard Boulders. Tried Comp wall V7, got in two halves. Then got on 50 degree board, its just been reset, had no idea of difficulty of the taped routes, but they are all pretty hard. Burned off some kid wads, which was nice. Getting up any of the taped boulders on there is a good winter training goal i think.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Rest

Sacked off planned training week due to too much work, not enough psyche. Really good session on Thursday, i never really try anything that takes me more than 3 goes. So was good to try some properly hard moves.

[tomtom]

M:

T:

W: Stockport wall. Been nursing a sore lower back since my session at Blackstones on the sunday.. took it easy - got some volume - felt alright. But not perfect

Th: Stanage far RH end with Lagerstarfish. Shit weather - so we went to Hampers hang in the hope it would be dry. It wasnt. But we managed to dry some holds and played around on the traverse (ie Lagers did it - I didnt) doing it sans heels. Worked some nice eliminates on the traverse wall to the right.

Highlights were coffee and pastries
Lowlights were wet rock, high wind (that didnt seem to dry the rock), my chalk bag/bucket being blown into the drinking trough underneath Hampers.. I now have some 'blessed by stanage' twice dried chalk if anyone wants any?

Fr: Back hurts alot... couldnt put socks or trousers on for an hour until my back had warmed up Went to wedding reception in the evening.

Sa: Back just as bad... MrsTT away for the weekend, so a weekend climbing pass wasted by injury..

Su: Back marginally better - feels more like the top of the back of my buttock rather than back that hurts... Still grumpy - eating too much.

Overall: A bit shit really, unwanted back twinges persist... Away with work Tues <> Thurs next week so lots of chance to rest the back..

Still looking on the bright side I invented the sweet chilli salmon burrito this afternoon.. superb.

[fried]

STG - Get a few more outdoor sessions in before the end of the year.
LTG - 7A by 50

Monday - Indoors, tired and bored. Failed on all my blue circuit probs 7/13. Didn't stay too long.

Tuesday - French public holiday, beautiful weather. Wasn't really in a climbing mood but the weather was too good to miss the opportunity. Went to Canche aux merciers to do the orange circuit as a bit of active rest, within 15mins I was climbing in a t-shirt. Did most of the 40 odd problems. Good fun. Stopped of for a play on a couple of the reds at the start of the circuit. As usual ended up in front of La goulotte à Dom, someone was already working it, so we took turns, he was trying using the stylish foothold out left method, I was just trying to make use of the good friction and slap my way directly up it. On the third go I topped out (in my whites of course),  he followed on his next go. We were both pretty pleased. Second 6A, probably more of a psycological barrier than anything else.

Wed- Sat - Nothing, needed a break.
Sun - Planned to go indoors, but had a late night and not much sleep, 4 sets on BM.

[krymson]

STG: a classic 7b+
MTG: Get solid at 7a/b


M: yoga - like sex for a tweaky shoulder
T: Outdoors - warmed up on a 6b+, flailed on a one move wonder 6c+, which dampened the spirits, then repeated a 7a which boosted the spirits again.
Worked a 7b+ on TR to where it felt quite doable. Pretty chuffed and psyched to come back and try it.
W:0
Th: antagonists on rings
Fr:Weights for antags/shoulders(chest openers)
Sat: indoor gym - ARC for 15 minutes and then did a few problems from V2-V4
Sun: indoor gym - warmed up on a few v0-v3 and then attempted a bunch of V4-V5 to mild success.

[Muenchener]

STG (Autumn): Another decent day or two on the rock this year, weather permitting
MTG (2015): 7a+ 7b redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

The Glorious Indian Summer of 2014 seems to be over; my prospective climbing partner had a cold and the forecast for the weekend was highly dodgy. Time to start on the Unsolicited(*) Climb More Plastic programme.

M: Beastmaker 10 sets, same grips as last week +1kg. Felt very, very hard.
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering. Hideously overcrowded and sweaty, and my project has been taken down and replaced by a bottomless pit of stupidly set nonsense. 
T:   
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Start of winter base mileage phase: 3 x 20 minutes ARC sets, the second one continuously overhanging. This is a pretty good start considering that in January I had to train for a month to get to one 16 minute continuously overhanging set. Today's didn't feel desperate either.

S: Knee physio, mobility, shoulders, core.

S: Wall, Gilching, routes. 4 x 5c-ish warm up, 2 x 6a+ onsight, 3 x 7a proj attempts, 3 x 5c warm down. My first real attempts on a plastic 7a inna upward stylee: found the moves not very hard, but doing more than half a dozen of them at a time and/or hanging on long enough to clip will take a bit of work. Which I have begun, so good.

(* Not really, and very welcome)

[Sasquatch]

M - Great session on the moonboard. plus a light campus session
T - nothing
W - Fly out for LA - overnight flight
Th - Drive LA to bishop - First session on mandala, got to the ear and had a foot pop.  Then had a nice night session doing a v11, and flashing a v9.
F - Rest. Rapped down the top of evilution.  Not going to do that one.  A fair bit of hiking.
S - early AM session. Warmed up, and managed to flash Cocktail Sauce - my first v10 flash (I think it's soft, but I'll take it ), then got on Mandala.  First burn got to previous highpoint and tried slightly different beta, and my left hand popped off.  SOOOO CLOSE.  Next 4-5 goes I kept having a foot pop off down low from a good foot. Couldn't understand what was going on.  Then it got too warm.  Went and gave Evilution a go, couldn't do the opening move.  it felt hot and slick....  Then went and flashed Checkboard.     Really odd - good and bad day.... 
S - Rest

After looking at some of the footage and thinking about it, the reason my foot was popping was actually because I was pulling too hard with my hands and not weighting the foot correctly. 

Back on Mandala tomorrow afternoon.  I think afternoon sessions are the way to go.  You can warm up earlier and slowly, then get progressively better conditions, rather than progressively worse conditions.

[tomtom]

Effort Sasq. Look forward to the yyfy later on

[shark]

11.7-9

M. PM. Systems board. Started in crusher edges. Felt ok. Following Alex's advice worked out harder PE sequence than laddering sequence done before and had 2mins rest between goes instead of 1 min. Felt good and lots of options to tweak it harder over the winter.
T. 12 hour day travelling and working
W. PM Systems board. Improvement on circuit
T. PM. Took Tom's German exchange student to Foundry. Snuck in some time on the new set of Wave problems. Tall Tom pointed me at "an entry level hard problem" ie maroon and black spots on steep section. Did ok on this but more importantly this highlighted that the tightness in my shoulder that I've been living with for several months was actually detrimental to my climbing (as well as sleeping) despite my best efforts to stretch it out.
F. AM Fingerboard. Unweighted as not strong enough. PM Physio to deal with shoulder problem which seems to manifesting itself from the left side of my neck. Some painful manipulation ensued. Follow up session booked for next tuesday.
S. Invited to go on a day hit to North Wales with John Welford and Rob Barker. This turned out to be an excellent call as the weather was great over there. Went to Tremerchion. Had to wait for a fox run to finish. Lovely limestone craglet with a great view though limited number of problems (for me). After several goes did Flag of Iron 6C which was really good. Had a few goes at the initial press move of 22 Chambers 7C but didnt get anywhere. Then got stuck into Lone Wolf 7B. Robin got it and I got close. Later found that we were doing a right hand version. It did feel more like 7A+.
S.

Good week easing back in after a week off

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board repeated a session that I'd back in June. Managed to repeat everything I'd and did one thing I couldn't do before.
Thu. Board hard mirror session 41 problems.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Turbo 1 hr 20 mins.
Sun. Board worked out some new problems did most of them but one I couldn't link. Bike 54.80 miles 3hrs 1min 18.10 mph.

[pyrosis]

Sasq - nice flash on the Checkerboard, what a great hard line. And yes, afternoon is the way to go on the east side, as the sun sinks behind the mountains and the temperature drops, YES!

Webb- 41 problems, that's some serious stamina

As for me:

STG - survive surgery, regain mobility to be able to return to work 11/18
MTG - quick rehab to 7A (lowball) by new years
LTG - Checkerboard, Stained Glass, Mandala

M - worked 12 hrs, worked on installing more black rubber flooring in the gym
T - worked 12 hrs, finished up with the flooring
W - worked 12 hrs, then quick sess in the gym up to 6B or so
T - went under the knife - pretty quick and painless procedure, i now have a metal free body. Then went home and pretty much slept the rest of the day
F - sat around and ate drugs. Able to hobble a bit without the crutches. Edited photos + video
S - sat around and ate less drugs. only nsaids until the eve. Finished the southern sandstone vid
S - sitting around not eating drugs. able to walk a bit better. Able to drive.  Will try some fingerboards later.

[lagerstarfish]

Stanage far RH end with Lagerstarfish. Shit weather - so we went to Hampers hang ... Worked some nice eliminates on the traverse wall to the right.

the thing from the first sit start hold for Magnetic North and traversing leftwards to the overhang was a class bit of boulderisation

I'm going to write that one up as a worthy bit of contrived crabbing 6B+?

[JackAus]

F -...Rapped down the top of evilution.  Not going to do that one....
S -...Went and gave Evilution a go...

 


STG: DWS project.
MTG: ?
LTG: V11

M: Flat Rock. Handful of V0-1s and worked a project (V6ish) and worked a V6. Good bit of progress on the project, have now done all the moves. Last move is a very off balance compression dyno, not big but surprisingly hard to catch. V6 I hadn't tried since it was put up, lowball out of a cave into a crimpy traverse then join a V1 to top out. I just worked the cave section, awesome moves and fairly burly.
T: Finally put my beastmaker up in the shed. Session on it straight away.
W: Short bm session.
T: DWS. 1 attempt at project, felt horrible. Almost didn't hold the cut. Lapped some other stuff, first repeat of something and put up a new line.
F:
S: DWS. Got on rope and cleaned a new line. Sketchy moves over a ledge, probably S2. Did the full 7a traverse into it and it went easily first go. Fun line.
S: Lot 33 bouldering. Shit V2 that hadn't been recorded, some non-local added it to the online guide giving it 2 stars... There was a reason it wasn't recorded... Utter shit.
Tweaked my back lifting my smallest pad, had to lie down over a rock for 30min for it to feel vaguely better. More comfortable to climb than stand up. Capitalized on this by ticking a V6 that I'd been trying on and off for a while (it's the first and pretty much only line that gets wet when it rains...). Ended up going pretty easily. Also worked a V7, did most of the moves except the last high throw (hesitating because of my back!) and worked a dyno project that I hadn't tried in over a year. Got pretty close too. Might have to get back on it soon.


Monday morning and my back is fuuucked. Couldn't even sit up in bed to get painkillers and I'm about to ride 3.5 hrs to Sydney, job interview, boulder, then ride back tonight.... Not looking forward to the ride!

[tomtom]

Stanage far RH end with Lagerstarfish. Shit weather - so we went to Hampers hang ... Worked some nice eliminates on the traverse wall to the right.

the thing from the first sit start hold for Magnetic North and traversing leftwards to the overhang was a class bit of boulderisation

I'm going to write that one up as a worthy bit of contrived crabbing 6B+?

About right. Maybe hard 6B+ if you're putting it on peakbouldering. Might I suggest 'twice cooked traverse' as the name?

[webbo]

Webb- 41 problems, that's some serious stamina

They are only 4 or 5 hand moves long.

[Sasquatch]

F -...Rapped down the top of evilution.  Not going to do that one....
S -...Went and gave Evilution a go...

 

Yeah.  I'm not much for consistency.  A few folks were getting on it, so I figured what the hell.  I could always drop off......  Didn't matter in the end since I couldn't do the first move...

Monday morning and my back is fuuucked. Couldn't even sit up in bed to get painkillers and I'm about to ride 3.5 hrs to Sydney, job interview, boulder, then ride back tonight.... Not looking forward to the ride!

Hope your back feels better.

[nik at work]

STG -think of a stg
M/LTG - either cave projects and 8c/+

M - BM session. Unweighted series of repeaters.
T - Bm session +20kg. Also did some one arm hangs which felt more stable than previously, which is nice.
W - nothing
T - BM session. Unweighted did long hangs 30s apart for ring finger monos, bottom row slopey 2 finger and 45s which were 20s. Then at end of session did a max length hang on bottom row shallow 4 finger, managed 60s but have no baseline  so dunno what this means...
F - nothing
S - short  BM session. Not very productive or worthwhile tbh.
S - decided I needed to mix things up a bit so did a modded BM session with +55kg (pretty much 100% bodyweight). Did some unweighted pull ups to warm up then did a set of three pullups palms back and three palms forward, which is odd as I've never managed more than one and a half one armers. Then tried 10s hangs. Did them with +55kg up to and including bottom row two finger pocket. Then did middle finger monos with +20kg but hang for 20s and ring finger monos +20kg for 10s. Pleased with session but don't think +55kg will become a regular thing.

A pretty good week but I'm starting to miss rock and have no real prospect of getting out soon so motivation may become an issue. Also need to come up with some sort of stamina routine as I can't keep hammering the fingers or I'll pop.
Sorry I've waffled on again haven't I...

[nik at work]

Also meant to say nice one Sass, keep crushing beast.

[kelvin]

STG - Nov. Keep up mileage and work on power.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one.

Mon - 4hrs routes. Lead 5+, 6a, 6a+ (only the 3rd ever, indoor or out), TR 6b+, Lead 5, TR 6c twice. Some other stuff too I guess.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Aerocap in the boulder room. 40min with a couple or three of step offs. Yoga class. Then farted around on the fingerboards.
Thu - Rest
Fri  - Drove Peak.
Sat - Bought some Scarpa Instinct slippers, hoped Bamford might dry but rain, Rivilin too, so bogged off to Nesscliffe for the first time. TR an arete to the left of Trouble in Toytown, only there an hour or so. Drove to Wales.
Sun - Cromlech. Freezin'. Left Wall on second. Almost two hours belaying. Then stuck gear, then hotaches (worst ever and I winter climb at times), then stuck gear. Then failed miserably to work out the rising rightwards traverse. No feet I could see/use and in the end peeled right below True Grip ramp. Had actual fun trying to get back up to the crack. Bouldering on a rope at my limit. Battered after. Should have stuck to the plan... the quarries.

Glad to have had a play on the 6c on Monday. Cruised it all except the crux over the roof but found a method second time up/fourth go in total. Will try and get this on lead now if I can blag a belay or two in the next couple of weeks. 6b is my best ever lead indoors.

The moves on the arete at Nesscliffe felt pretty easy to be honest, then today I was thoroughly humbled by Left Wall. The moves upwards were no bother but I had no skills in the locker to use the diagonal crack. Needed some edges for my feet and without them I was totally lost. I had no idea of what to to do at all. Lost almost. Managed to string together 3 hard moves (for me) in a row  to get to the True Grip ramp after I fell - really pleased with this, two finger sidepulls, a mono, small foot holds. Tenuous as hell. Proper broken after when I eventually came off and just lowered down as I was spent.

Odd week.

[Dolly]

+1 foe Sasquatch. Proper beast
M too tired for Pilates so did some kettlebells instead
T Great sess on the newly reset shed
W Gym weights and core
T Networking thing in Leeds with  free bar. Did lots of networking and lots of bar
F  Hungover after do in Leeds. Force myself to go to Foundry and have a pretty good sess on The Wave. The setting really is very good
S Nothing Most of family ill so cook, clean, wash etc all day
S For some reason fancied some routes so do 11 at the gym snd enjoy it.

[andybfreeman]

season 1 of periodised plan

M - Hangboard - second session stepping up resistance on all hangs
T - Was planning to climb indoors for easy mileage but knackered so just rest
W - rest
Th - Hangboard 3 - early morning (but still post breakfast) session, surprisingly good performance. Stepped up most grips but held on secon set on small edge and monos to protect my fingers.
F - rest - went to Movie World and played on roller coasters 
Sa - easy outdoor climbing with gf. Ridiculously hot! and couldn't escape the sun so pulled up stumps after a couple of routes and returned to camp fro creek swimming and esky beers
Su - high ropes course (  did we agree on the name?). Lots of fun but skin felt sore by the end despite staying in gloves the whole time

Weight 71 ish all week. I have this week and next left of my strength pahse then it's time to cut the chocolate and ice cream

[Doylo]

Glad you enjoyed Trem shark. The other two do either of the 7Cs?

[shark]

Glad you enjoyed Trem shark. The other two do either of the 7Cs?

No. John got close on 36 Chambers but had a dodgy shoulder and ended up hurting his knee too and Rob is just getting back into it after a bad finger injury. Pair of injured geriatrics.



Note to self - take video with camera on its side

[rginns]

I really need to get better at this. I can't remember a lot about last week apart from it was pretty poor in terms of training, I need to pick up my feet this wk.
I also seem to be craving sugar a lot recently so need to watch the intake and maybe get some more sleep which could be causing this... most of my training seems to end at 2am...
65 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs).

M = nowt
T = nada
W = 4.5k Longworth lane run. Fast pace, felt good
T = nothing
F = 1.5hr Crusher board session, pretty good
S = installing ceiling panels in the garage
S = annoyingly short bouldering session at Wilton 1, but have added Traverse of the Underclings to the list. Good problem, although I need to work on right arm lock offs if I'm to nail it.

[andy_e]

What's on the list Pastyman?

[rginns]

What's on the list Pastyman?

Current wishlist as it stands in quarry order: I've limited it to the >7A problems, there's lots of other sub 7A ones, but this should give more focus....

Groundhog 7A (Brownstones)
Big Muff 7A (Brownstones)
Pigswill sit 7A (Brownstones)
Hank's wall 7A+ (Brownstones)
Ridiculous Eliminate 7A+ (Brownstones)
Snakey B original 7A (Wilton 1)
Traverse of the Underclings 7A (Wilton 1)
The Move 7A (Wilton 1)
Flywalk Slab 7A (Wilton 1)
Shieldbug 7A (Wilton 1)
JR's soft shoe shuffle 7A (Wilton 3)
Pimple 7A (Wilton 4)
Neat Whisky SS 7A (Wilton 4)
Broken Jokes 7B (Egerton)
Zendik 7A (Ousel's Nest)
Faith and Energy 7A+ (Ousel's Nest)
Bach 7A+ (Lower Montcliffe)
Clown's Pocket direct 7A+(Jumbles)