[SA Chris]

I'm trying moves I haven't even thought of yet (to paraphrase this)

[Moo]

From what I've read it looks like today will be the defining day for KJ either he's gonna do it or he won't and they'll continue to the top. Weather looks set to turn and I think they'd deem it too big a risk to sacrifice the whole ascent for the sake of doing it in a slightly better style.

[slackline]

http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/day-13-on-dawn-wall.html

[DAVETHOMAS90]

[/quote]
What leaves me puzzled, though, is this: how can someone be so happy for completing such trivial endurance feats? Like, two moves? Are you crazy? One single move would be better, but now it all boils down to just holding a position static, for me. And I am always right.
[/quote]

Hey, thanks Nibs!

You're quite right. I was discussing this with my support crew - whether failing on the match at the end of the first move was a fitness problem.

Making ascents on Dawn Wall and Broomgrove at the same time was really starting to take something out of me. However, in the end, I managed to pull through. Yes!

Was going to post on YYFY, but it's gone global already.

*****

Regarding another small matter..

Cone on Kevin!

[Doylo]

They've done well to get such a good spell of weather this time of year.

[duncan]

Caldwell has polished off pitches 19 and 20, the last of the hard climbing. He still has eleven pitches to go, including one .13a, but they could probably climb that in a day. Weather forecast is for possible showers over the next few days, still good for January.



Pitch 19, 5.13c / 8a+. The original Wall of Early Morning Light climbs the big corner. (Photo Tom Evans)

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yep, really great reporting and stunning pictures from El Cap report. Interesting to see Tommy climbing without his shirt on p.17, so clearly quite warm.

Some speculation about what they do if Kevin doesn't send p.15. Difficult. What's everyone else's take on this?

[petejh]

Beyond caring?

Sorry.

Hmm, nope, don't really care as long as all the pitches have been climbed by one or other of them.

[erm, sam]

I have to agree with Pete, I have lost interest. Last year when it was plucky Tommy against the wall on the endless project it was a bit interesting but the current media blitz thing leaves me cold. I couldn't care less who climbs what pitch.

[lagerstarfish]

I dread to think about the effect that this ascent will have on Shark's siege tactics and goal setting

[webbo]

Did they have a step ladder as well?

[T_B]

That corner on the right looks nice.

This is all starting to seem very arbitrary.

[tomtom]

I dread to think about the effect that this ascent will have on Shark's siege tactics and goal setting

I wonder if a portaledge was in Sharks Xmas Stocking... He might have to put a bolt in Bens roof to hang it from though...

[cheque]

It's easy to see it as a bit contrived and ethically dodgy but when someone does the second ascent in better style, I guarantee they say "the real credit has to go to Tommy and Kevin for having the vision/ tenacity etc. to put up this route" and it'll be hard not to agree with them.

[Nibile]

Against all adversities and mockery:

image by Nibile, on Flickr
JE SUIS SHARKIE

[Moo]

As long as every pitch gets lead I'm not too fussed about the intricacies of the rest of the ascent. My biggest gripe, and I understand that this is small in terms of big wall climbing, is the loop pitch. I can't help but see this as a bit of a cop out.

If they'd played to their strengths and had TC climb these intricate pitches and let KJ who by all accounts seems pretty confident on the Dyno they could have had a free ascent of the hardest possible variation on the wall.

But then my only experience big wall climbing amounts to swinging around on viaducts with a hilti drill so who really fucking cares what I think tbh.

[IanP]

That corner on the right looks nice.

This is all starting to seem very arbitrary.

Is that suggesting that the corner looks easier?  Or aré your 2 comments not related?

[Doylo]

I don't mind about the loop pitch. There's enough hard climbing on it and if he's found a way round it fair enough.  The dyno did look cool though. Kevin not doing the 2nd 9a has taken the shine off the whole thing because they've been in limbo and team ascent ethic could be scuppered.

[standard]

Kevin sent 15.

[HaeMeS]

 

[danm]

Balls. Now I'm rooting for them. Go Tommy, go KJ!

[Sasquatch]

+1

+2

My excitement was starting to wane, and now it's back.  I'd really love for Kevin to send the dyno pitch as well.  I'm sure the overall footage is going to be pretty spectacular

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Kevin sent 15.

YYFY!

[Duma]

+1

+2

My excitement was starting to wane, and now it's back.  I'd really love for Kevin to send the dyno pitch as well.  I'm sure the overall footage is going to be pretty spectacular

This. Come on.

[kelvin]

Amazing news!