It seems that even though it doesn't feel painful or like there is any issue there when at rest, the inside edge of my forearm (palm up) near the elbow was super tender to massage. The other arm in the same place was fine so I assume its another place in my forearms that is angry and annoyed.
Anyone got any designs for a home made armaid? Old laundry mangle may be excessive, two rolling pins and some bungy cords probably safer.
Cheers guys, I'll try and open hand as much as possible. Does this also mean if I really have to crimp then half crimp instead or full?Is it actually possible to open hand a tiny edge...? That might sound like a punter thing to say but I'm so used to crimping everything that the thought of open handing a "crimpy hold" seems alien to me.
I've currently resorted to a can of peas of its side on a worktop, roll the forearm on top of it while applying pressure on top with the other hand.
Quote from: Luke Owens on March 30, 2015, 01:37:59 pmI've currently resorted to a can of peas of its side on a worktop, roll the forearm on top of it while applying pressure on top with the other hand. Let me know next time you're up this way (Llandudno) and I'll leave my armaid in the porch for you to pick up if I'm not in. Can give it a try for a week. A can of peas doesn't work half as well, especially own brand.
I bought a 'Spikey' from the Physio Room and subsequently I was bought a much spikier (and firmer) ball for Christmas off of someone who wasn't put off by the outrageous price of what appears to be a dog toy.They're both good and for the price a Lacross ball or Spikey (3 sizes available) seem like a good investment as with bodyweight you can get into muscles quite well. Perhaps a foam roller and lying on it in a Randall-esque stretch position might work (I don't have one so I can't comment, this is purely speculative)?
Luke - I used to crimp absolutley everything. I can remember being laughed at by my belayer for shaking out on the Pantomime jug fully crimped. If you don't know this hold it resembles a glued on breeze block and there's no reason to hold it like this. Although I thought that crimping and being relatively strong at the grip was great it really did hold me back and caused me a lot of problems (mainly finger injuries) in the following years.
That sounds just like me. So have you quit the habit now? If so how did you feel it changed your climbing/injuries?
When you crimp everything, including jugs then everything feels like a jug.
shortly after really targetting the weakness on a BM. Having progressed rapidly whilst deadhanging
Without wishing to hijack this thread (I think it's sort of relevant) - does the new MacLeod book offer any new/interesting stuff on finger injuries beyond what is readily available on UKB/the Internetz?
A question for anyone: When deeply massaging should it hurt? Some of you are saying about applying body weight to balls which sounds really painful! Also, should the area feel tender/worked afterwards?
Without wishing to hijack this thread (I think it's sort of relevant) - does the new MacLeod book offer any new/interesting stuff on finger injuries beyond what is readily available on UKB/the Internetz?*finger
Quote from: Luke Owens on March 31, 2015, 12:47:55 pmA question for anyone: When deeply massaging should it hurt? Some of you are saying about applying body weight to balls which sounds really painful! Also, should the area feel tender/worked afterwards?It's going to hurt if you've got tight forearms yes. As you slacken them off it will get much more comfortable. When I first went to the physio with my finger injuries I was writhing in agony when he was massaging my forearms. When he told me to massage them every day I asked how I'd know if I was hitting the right spot and he cheerfully told me "where it hurts!". 5 months on there's barely even any discomfort.
It's going to hurt if you've got tight forearms yes. As you slacken them off it will get much more comfortable. When I first went to the physio with my finger injuries I was writhing in agony when he was massaging my forearms. When he told me to massage them every day I asked how I'd know if I was hitting the right spot and he cheerfully told me "where it hurts!". 5 months on there's barely even any discomfort.
Anyone want to hazard a guess as to why this whole problem effects by sport climbing more than bouldering? My guess is the fact that the short number of moves on boulders don't give the muscles chance to tighten to much and restrict bloodflow? Maybe why I get cramped on routes?
Quote from: SA Chris on March 30, 2015, 12:34:36 pmAnyone got any designs for a home made armaid? Old laundry mangle may be excessive, two rolling pins and some bungy cords probably safer.the flexor carpi ulnaris I think,
Where my money would lie. Do you ever get pumped during the first ten moves on a route? A someone said earlier, you might also be (subconsciously?) gripping harder than you need to when you are on a route compared to bouldering.
Quote from: Schnell on April 08, 2015, 01:20:26 pmQuote from: SA Chris on March 30, 2015, 12:34:36 pmAnyone got any designs for a home made armaid? Old laundry mangle may be excessive, two rolling pins and some bungy cords probably safer.the flexor carpi ulnaris I think,My last few posts above were about this. I'm deep massaging with a golf ball at the moment. It's incredibly painful but I've convinced myself it will help...
Quote from: Schnell on April 08, 2015, 01:20:26 pmQuote from: SA Chris on March 30, 2015, 12:34:36 pmAnyone got any designs for a home made armaid? Old laundry mangle may be excessive, two rolling pins and some bungy cords probably safer.the flexor carpi ulnaris I think,My last few posts above were about this. I'm deep massaging with a golf ball at the moment. It's incredibly painful but I've convinced myself it will help... Quote from: SA Chris on April 08, 2015, 12:55:24 pmWhere my money would lie. Do you ever get pumped during the first ten moves on a route? A someone said earlier, you might also be (subconsciously?) gripping harder than you need to when you are on a route compared to bouldering.I'm pumped after about 5 moves... I get pretty pumped on warm ups even if I make a conscious effort not to over grip. I probably do over grip on harder stuff though, I'm out later this evening so I'm going to analyse what I do out of habit a bit more, and try and loosen my grip as much as possible.I don't think I've ever redpointed something with ease, It's always a fight against the pump/cramp irrelevant of grade. My mates often find it funny that my forearms look like they are about to explode after a hard (for me) route.