Took a taxi to the crag (Arhi) which was a first.
Redpoint went went pretty smoothly and even clipped rather than grabbed the anchor.
Congrats to Tommy - sounds like he had a good week. Is 7b+ a new grade for him?
Quote from: shark on November 03, 2014, 09:11:50 amTook a taxi to the crag (Arhi) which was a first.Theres a route at black rocks called that is there not?
Nice one cheque, it's a fine feeling indeed setting off from that ledge
Route breaks down to ~20 moves of around pumpy 6c+ to a pumpy rest. It then goes really hard for 5 moves to a hideous clip off a sharp crimp then 5 moves (the meat of the crux) to a big-ish undercut then about 7 moves to the lower off including a foot above hand powerful rockover. I think it'll end up being about F7b+/c. Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?
Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?Cheers
Aerocap is still very much a weakness of mine which I'll carry on training.
Can you give us a rough idea how much you've been working on it?