Route breaks down to ~20 moves of around pumpy 6c+ to a pumpy rest. It then goes really hard for 5 moves to a hideous clip off a sharp crimp then 5 moves (the meat of the crux) to a big-ish undercut then about 7 moves to the lower off including a foot above hand powerful rockover. I think it'll end up being about F7b+/c. Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?
Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?Cheers
Aerocap is still very much a weakness of mine which I'll carry on training.
Can you give us a rough idea how much you've been working on it?