[petekitso]

I may well be looking for excuses but does anyone know if the right hand starting edge on banana finger direct has broken recently. Felt fairly solid on this a while ago but not on Saturday . . .

[SA Chris]

Yeah it's bigger now!

[lagerstarfish]

last week I thought it seemed less good than it used to

[tomtom]

last week I thought it seemed less good than it used to

Someone else has been using your old hustler trick Lagers - of slathering the holds with lard afterwards....

[petekitso]

Thanks - I was really hoping for a consensus that it had disappeared completely (making the problem 8a) but I will cling onto 'less good' . . .

[Johnny Brown]

I noticed it looked broken a last winter - but it didn't seem any worse as a hold. Wouldn't be surprised if it has crumbled further though. Have a photo I will dig out...



You don't need this hold if you start matched on the sidepull and then insert right leg into a kneebar, which also makes sense if you are doing the full banana reverse link dubbed 'Palace of bananas reversed'.

[fried]

dubbed 'Palace of bananas reversed'.

That's brilliant, who chose that?

[Johnny Brown]

 

[petekitso]

Ah - yes it still looks fairly similar to that.

Back to the excuses drawing board then . . .

[duncan]

A pair of Helly Hansen fibrepile troos, likely what the first ascentionist was wearing, makes the thigh scum under the roof stick almost literally like velcro. Tweed breeches are probably nearly as effective.