[nai]

Route breaks down to ~20 moves of around pumpy 6c+ to a pumpy rest. It then goes really hard for 5 moves to a hideous clip off a sharp crimp then 5 moves (the meat of the crux) to a big-ish undercut then about 7 moves to the lower off including a foot above hand powerful rockover. I think it'll end up being about F7b+/c.


Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?

As nobody else is offering anything I'll have a go and someone can correct me afterwards. Assuming your trying to get this done in what remains of Diamond season then probably construct a circuit of similar length to the rest-through-crux-to-lower off section and do sets of 4-8 laps.
If you're looking to roll it over til next year then Aerocap/ARC to raise base level and ability to recover at the shake combined with PE circuits and strength work in some sort of periodised plan.

[Duma]

skip the mid crux clip? is there another bolt between that and the LO?

[csl]

Yeah, i'd agree with skipping the clip if you can?

[Sasquatch]

Any tips for training for this route? ~20 moves to a shake out then 10 hard crux moves to a half rest then about 7 moderately difficult moves the lower off. Need to be able to blast through the crux section (which is OK in isolation). Train Ancap? Repeaters?

Cheers

Step one would seem to be getting a really good understanding of whats going on with your "hot aches" overall.  It seems like this is really impacting your training and climbing.  Once you get that fully understood, then you'll be better able to sort out what/how to train for the route.

Aside from that, I'd say start working your down the route instead of up it.  Can you finish from the start of the crux to the end?  From the bolt before? etc.  Since the start is relatively easy, I think you'd be better off dialing in the ending by working your way down the route...

[nai]

I meant to suggest skipping the clip as well or extending that draw so it can be clipped from lower?

And what Sas says about doing it top down, if you were wondering What Would Jerry Do, it's that.

[Luke Owens]

Thanks guys, There is a bolt after the crux which I clip off the undercut (sort of half rest position) 7 moves from the chains. I think my best bet would be extending the tricky crux clip so I can clip it a couple of moves into the crux off better holds or even off the rest. This will probably feel run out but safe.

The hot aches were due to getting warm then by the time it was my go again I had got too cold, so the first section felt OK but the crux holds felt difficult to use when the blood was coming back, should of warmed back up with maybe doing a few moves at the start of the route then lowering back down.

It's coming to the end of the season now but I'm really psyched to get it done. I had kinda wrote it off until next year as it's getting colder now.

After the failed redpoints I've managed a crux to the top link so I think it'll just be a matter of getting as much back on the shake out as possible and not getting pumped on the lower section. Aerocap is still very much a weakness of mine which I'll carry on training.

[nai]

Aerocap is still very much a weakness of mine which I'll carry on training.

I've worked on Aerocap continuously throughout this year after last year's disaster (worked PE but took the Manyana approach to Aerocap and forearms would lock solid on anything beyond a boulder problem) and have made gains I find quite surprising, finding I can shake and recover in positions I would have continued to pump out in previously. It's time consuming and as dull as it gets but worth it when it opens up routes that previously would have been impossible.

[seankenny]

I've worked on Aerocap continuously throughout this year... It's time consuming and as dull as it gets...
[/quote]

Can you give us a rough idea how much you've been working on it?

[nai]

Can you give us a rough idea how much you've been working on it?

After doing a base phase which included 12 sessions of 4x10 mins over 4 weeks, I maintained that by doing 4x10 minute sets every week, sometimes I'd do it as two half sessions of 2x10 after a strength workout (found that doing it after PE was too hard) or as one full set of 4x10 on a rest/recovery day. 
Did some sessions on an indoor wall but mostly on my campus/system board pausing 5-10s on each hold/move (that's the mind-numbingly dull bit)
Rest times between sets don't seem to be that critical but it came down from 10 to 3 minutes while the intensity went from having to step off and rest every 2 mins to being able to throw in a couple of laps on the jugs of the 40 degree board.
Guess I'm working more in the Aerocap zone than ARC, always with a moderate pump sometimes raising it towards uncomfortable then recovering and going again.

[kelvin]

Cheers nai - just started trying to make sure I do aerocap, as I'm pretty sure it's lack of that that causes me issues with crippling flash pump. Seems to be working so far, there's a big difference after just a month to be honest and last night the right arm gave up before the left - a totally new experience for me. I've been moving around quickly on the boulder wall, always sweating, not needing to shake out but a certain amount of pump by the end of 10 problems up and down (25m up with my feet and the same down). Takes about 7 minutes per set and I do ten.

I'll give the 5-10 second pause on each hold a try on the 10deg panel at the wall, I stay away from the steeper boards due to the knees.

[krymson]

STG:7a+
MTG: Get solid at 7a/b level

Mon: 0
Tues: Went out with a friend at the 7b/c level. We warmed up on a 7a I've been working for a bit, going bolt to bolt, then I sent it on the next attempt.
Got on a 22m 7a+ with a bouldery start and insecure finish, worked the moves on the first go, send it next go.
A bit of endurance work in the evening, then a  victory
W: antagonist stuff

Th: Went with a friend in the 6a/b range and repeated a string of 6's.
Warmed up on a 6a+(took a practice fall), then repeated a 6b smoothly. Attempted a 7b roof climb but got shut down. Repeated a 6c+ and then a 6c, each very smoothly, aiming for beautiful movement a sense of balance and a clear mind . Repeated a tricky 6b slab(my weakness) . Went home and did fingerboard hangs and then pullups.

F:  Woke up with some pain in the shoulder area! the fingerboard pullups seemed to cramp up my pec minor. Did some chest opening exercises and massage.

Sat: chest opening exercises, massage
Sun: Chest opening exercises, massage, light aerocap, and some  at night. Woke up the next day with shoulder feeling 

Good
First 7a+! pretty psyched. Felt like I climbed it well too, and it didn't feel at the limit.
Able to trust feet much better outside, even small shitty feet, or smears.
Able to keep it together much better - even through hard sections or very long climbs.

To Improve
Dynamic movement outside
Shoulder health

[nik at work]

STG: Provide unwanted opinions
MTG: Sort out tweaks and malaise and keep on keeping on despite this weather...
LTG: Cave projects and 8c/+

M: Travel to Margalef
T: Overcast day so stay at Laboratori all day, work 24 Hours Party People. Do all the moves bar two first time up (bolt-to-bolt, clipstick working styleeee). Keep working it and manage some decent links, ground to hard move 1, after hard move 1 to hard move 2, after hard move 2 to top. Wasted myself. At the end of the day had a burn on a 7c flash, fell off on the easy top move after a foot pop, stoopid.
W: Clear day, early morning at Laboratori on 24 Hours... Still struggling with two moves, the higher one is a leg flex issue and the lower one is a strength/reach problem. After a "sun hitting the crag" coffee head over to La Finestra and try E H Sukkara (8c/+). Surprise myself by quite easily climbing to the crux move straight off the ground (I tried this route briefly last year and did the starting moves but wasn't close to linking them). Unfortunately the crux move is still desperate, bugger. At the end of the day try and flash Aeroplastica and drop it mid crux.
T: Back on 24 Hours... in the morning, still getting some decent links but getting super sore and tired. Then in the evening have a blast on a 7c+ at Laboratori, fall off with burning skin and failing muscles. But decide to rest and then continue up to the finish.
F: Broken, do nothing.
S: Still sore skin but decide to try Mini Sukkara, which is an 8c indirect start to E H Sukkara which joins it just after the crux move. The moves on this come together pretty quickly but the skin pain is getting epic, frustrating as I think if I'd started on this route at the start of the week I'd have had a pretty good chance of getting it ticked. In the evening went and did the 7c+ from Thursday at Laboratori
S: SORE SKIN!!! Start on a long relentless overhanging 8a, fail miserably. Have another quick blast on Mini Sukkara and dial in a couple of the harder moves, next time... In the evening head back to Laboratori and do a crazy 7c roof thing, flash attempt I fall off not realising I'm at the chains, 2nd time up (or across...) I tick it including a show boating footless-one-armer-lock-off-clip-and-chalk look at me...
M: (including this even though it is technically next week, screw the system, fight the powers and all that) Broken beyond broken. Laboratori, bolt to bolt an 8a which I should really have left for next time as a flash attempt, then try and flash a different 8a and should have left it for next time also. Skin burning beyond belief. Head home.

So the trip was brilliant, I really like Margalef and will be back. The main points for me were:
1 - I can climb 8c, if I'd played it slightly differently I think I could have climbed 8c on this trip (hindshight is 20:20...). I can probably climb 8c+ in my current condition but it would have to super perfectly suit me, however with some more training then 8c+ should be possible next year (whether I can get a pass for a trip is a different matter)
2 - I can flash 8a (8a+?), but not on a trip where I spend all day trying fucking hard working an 8c/+ then expecting to be able to pull it out of the bag last thing in the evening.
3 - BM session were good but my skin suffered big time due to lack of time on rock, as did my climbing smarts (technique, positioning, what have you) meaning working moves took a bit longer than it might have done, although the counterpoint to that is the BM meant I had the beans to keep hammering the moves.
4 - I am SYKED of my tits for Margalef, but realistically probably need to think of some closer to home things to try. Anyone know anything about Make It Funky???

This week I'll probably not do very much, feeling a bit run down and my body definitely needs a rest. Back on it next week though.