I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. Just saying like.
W - BM session. Rather than max hangs decided to mix it up and have a play with repeaters. Not something I really have gone for in the past. I used this format:7 seconds hang, 3 seconds off, repeat 6 times. Hanging two handed I did one set on each of the following holds with 2-3 minutes rest between sets:Middle row deep four finger pocketMiddle row deep two fingerpocketMiddle row not so deep two finger pocketBottom row four finger pocket35'sBottom row shallow two finger pocketMiddle row deep mono'sBottom row shallow mono'sAny thoughts on that regular repeater-ists? I'm not sure whether this is a decent routine or whether I'd be better sticking with less hold variety and doing 3 sets on each hold?? Opinions? Felt pretty boxed by the end.
(they still go stiff after climbing but I think this might just be something I'm stuck with)
I think this is to do with scar tissue building up (but have no idea how the human body works). I alleviate this by using a Spiky finger massager which I find works really well and it feels nice too.
Cheque - I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out
Quote from: tomtom on October 20, 2014, 12:33:45 pmCheque - I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out It's fucking brutal isn't it?! My max hang record on the 4-finger edges in the bottom corners is five seconds and you're supposed to do repeaters on those 3 times (I think) in the workout!There are quite a lot of repeaters on the jugs in there though. I'd say PE on decent holds is my biggest strength (people who routinely burn me off the boulder problems at the Depot won't warm up on the circuit board with me as it basically finishes their session) but I did find the jug repeaters harder as the 5A sesh progressed. I guess climbing efficiently and using rests is my real strength, hence why I think the BM workout will "unlock gains" for me.Back on it tonight anyway so we'll see!
Numbers wise I'd like to do 8A...
I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out
I was one of the testers for the BM app and I fed back that the 'warm up' and easy sets were really tough for me!