[tomtom]

For Nick: STG progress steadily and remain injury free. LTG 8A :D

M: Logport wall
T:
W: Logport wall
Th:
F: Rubicon. Met up with Nai - and this time I didnt have a cricked neck. Played on Bigger splash and some other splishy splashy problem named 7... Made progress on last years efforts, but still a long way off. All 7's at Rubicon seem nails - apart from the one that isnt a 7! Belayed Nai up the route that starts up Kudos.. he came really close. Impressive stuff.
Sa:
Su: Woodwell. Mostly dry - and after a protracted warm up started working Crucifix Kiss again. I find this problem really tough. hanging on that crimp to reach across seemed a really long way ahead last year. After a couple of fairly lame efforts I surprised myself by holding it and eventually moved off it.. got to the corner a couple of times and decided to move on before I got too tired. Pleased. Went over and worked Whistler which I've tried 3 or 4 times before... slap slap slap slap slap slap nothing... then after a moment of reflection and trying twisting my right leg and hip into the rock it started to come together. The slap started to stick and after a decent rest it went. Excellent. Crap traffic on the way home....

A fairly good week - certainly progress on all of these problems since last year - which is excellent. 

I think the lime season is drawing to a close for me - and its been my best one to date (well its hard for them to be much worse!).

[Muenchener]

STG (Autumn): 7a redpoint. Current status: tried two, both of which I'm well capable of doing. Neither likely to be dry again until spring.   
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Less weak than Friday; Sunday's moderate alpine mileage seemed to work ok as active rest for the forearms.
T:
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering: largely a social session
T:   
F:
S: Sport climbing, Griesen. Working a new 7a project called Biset: very nice route with a desperate crux right at the top. Fell on the second to last hard move on the first serious redpoint attempt before rain stooped play, although tbh this was my fourth go on the route, and four goes on a redpoint project is generally enough to stop play without any help from the weather.
(My 7c-climbing mate didn't flash it yyfy)

S: Start of winter base fitness / mileage campaign. Alpspitze hillwalking. Judging by weather reports & webcams I was expecting a long (2,000 metres height gain) but pleasant autumn hike with a sprinkling of new snow. What I got was full on winter conditions, desperate wading through deep wet snow, and turning back 400 metres before the summit in the face of a slope that seemed highly dodgy even to my not very expert avalanche assessor's eye.

[fried]

STG - 10 pull ups
Mon/ Tues - Work
Wed - Indoor, flashed the first new blue problem with incredibly sketchy style, failed on the second. 5/6 at the moment. Started playing around on a couple of 6B ish probs, the first time my finger hasn't protested at the idea.
Thu - hit 8 pull ups in the morning.
Fri - hit 9 pull ups in the morning. Indoor, still can't do the 6th blue problem. Nothing new to work, so I continue with a couple of 6Bs. I need to just concentrate on a few problems and stop wandering around having a couple of goes at loads of different stuff.
Sat - Drinkies
Sun - Not convinced about the weather and a visit by friends yesterday evening and of course too much red wine make it easy to convince myself to lay on the sofa all day. Do a couple of sets on the BM so I don't feel too guilty.

[csl]

October Goals
10 7's in Spain
Onsight 7b+ in Spain
Stick to training plan - going well.
Find a UK project for the winter - 7c/7c+

Mon - rest
Tue - Doubles at Westway. Mostly around 7a.
Wed - Rest
Thu - bouldering, up to v6 easily. Tweaked a finger. Nnfn.
Fri - Rest
Sat -
Sun - about to fly to spain

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1 hour
Tue. Nothing.
We'd. Board working projects, then repeated a couple of things that tell I going ok.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board. Did a couple of projects. Stopped when finger started to split.
Sat. Bike 68.38 miles 3 hrs 52 mins 17.66 mph mega windy.
Sun. Board. 15 problems to warm up then 6 problems x 4 first 3 laps using screw on foot holds. Turbo 1 hour couldn't face the wind again.
Foot feels a little better.

[mindfull]

STG: back to font 7A-french 7b+ (both redpoint) after nerve surgery end of July.

Since my surgeon told me I would not be able to climb again before the end of October, and since I'm climbing again from the end of August  , I planned a real shock the system week, tested some things and went all the way to my current max. ability in running, climbing and weights.

MO:
- Stretching
- Bench press multiple sessions: 7112kg in 179 reps

TU:
- Stretching
- Test tempo run: 10K/38min32, new PR , flat pace

WE:
- Some circuit to warmup
- Intense campus workout

TH:
- Stretching
- Multiple bench press sessions: 8220kg in 198 reps
- Tempo run: 8K, wasn't fully recovered from tuesday

FR:
- Multiple bench press sessions: 4956kg in 121 reps

SA:
Rest. Some tai chi.

SU:
- Easy campus sessions
- Route onsight session: 5c slab, 6a overhang, 6a overhang, 6a slab, 5c slab, 6c overhang, 6b+ slab (very happy with this one), 6b\ overhang
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[kelvin]

Cheers tomtom

Muenchener - sounds like a tough day out today. Mind me asking how long the climb up took, before turning back?

For Nick - STG - Oct. Lots of mileage, sort middle finger left hand.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one. Also Zeppelin, El Chorro.

New boulder set this week and toughest week at work, physically, for a long, long time. Pretty battered.

Mon - Knackered, so no 4x4s but lead f4,5+,5+,6a. Tried a desperate 6a on the slab, didn't manage it clean after, even on a top rope. Then tried a 6b+ on TR - lovely moves, will keep at this I feel.

Tue - Boulder, new set. Alex was ill, so Jordon got to finish the setting. Flashed the easier stuff, tried some harder stuff, got some of it. Then helped set a problem, picked all the hand holds and placements, Jordon sorted the feet. It climbs well everyone has said, technical and with little thuggery. There four hours and put in maximal effort. Finger held up. Worked some crimpy hellfest I made up and the finger felt okay. Also made an effort to try inside flagging on the 10deg... so so.

Wed - Yoga. Beasted myself at work and think I'm starting to understand why I get flash pump so badly in the left arm. Tough day, utterly drained.

Thu - Tired, so worked hard stuff and not volume. Busy. Better on my made up stuff and the finger felt okay. Realised I had had a good session on Tuesday when my harder climbing mates struggled on stuff that I'd eventually managed. No grades yet, so no idea if I'd done well till then. Practised inside flagging on the 30deg - getting somewhere with it.

Fri - Social climb. Boulder a bit, felt solid in the fingers but lock-off and core remain weak points I feel. Tried the dodgy finger in the BM mono slot with the other hand in the deep 4 finger pocket - no reaction. Well happy!!! Knackered by now, so belayed Jordon on his new project in the main room and also led a 5+ and 6a back to back whilst boxed out of my brain. The aerocap in the three weeks before this has helped hugely.

Sat - Rest

Sun - Climbing Station, Loughborough. Legged round the easy circuit but fingers so tired. Worked some probs and then flashed some V3 stuff. Tried the 6a+ circuit but didn't quite manage it. Pretty poor circuit to be honest and doesn't really flow. Tried it a few more times. Cake and coffee. Flashed some V2/3 stuff. Tried some V4s. Mullered. Did some more and then bailed for home.

Failed on aerocap this week but work was nails and had no energy for it. Saturday was my first day off in 18. On the 'try hard' front, I'd say I hit 100% every session at some point and it seems the finger is pretty much good to go now. Happy days.

[Muenchener]

Muenchener - sounds like a tough day out today. Mind me asking how long the climb up took, before turning back?

Four and a half hours. Target was four hours valley to summit, which would be tough but feasible in the dry. I can generally do six hundred metres per hour in running shoes with no pack, five hundred or so with big boots and/or a heavy rucksack. On dry ground. In snow all bets are off.

Walking in snow is no fun anyway; I'm thinking of getting a splitboard this winter.

[kelvin]

Muenchener - sounds like a tough day out today. Mind me asking how long the climb up took, before turning back?

Four and a half hours. Target was four hours valley to summit, which would be tough but feasible in the dry. I can generally do six hundred metres per hour in running shoes with no pack, five hundred or so with big boots and/or a heavy rucksack. On dry ground. In snow all bets are off.

Walking in snow is no fun anyway; I'm thinking of getting a splitboard this winter.

Aye - 500m per hour is good going with boots and a pack. I'd seen lots of snow freshly fallen in Swizzy on facebook this week... fairplay for bothering. Powder is always nails to walk in.

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T Foundry furnace board.
W gym weights and core
T Pilates in the morning before work
F Foundry Furnace board. Good hard sess. Was about to go to bed at 11:30 when decided I wanted "that" feeling so went downstairs and did a kettlebell session. Yes I had been drinking.
S
S Gardoms. It was slightly too warm but nice to be there. Glad I went there instead of Anston. Failed on some problems and did some I hadnt done before including Double Bum which I was especially pleased about as its a jump for a pinch with the right hand and since I cut the end of my thumb off right hand pinches are somewhat tricky for me. Did Green Speed which is a desparate struggle to get on the ledge.

[duncan]

I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. ...

Also sorry my posts are so long and detailed, I find it useful to write it all down but have no expectation that anybody else should or indeed would be interested.

Definitely interested in both. Feedback is always good and the detail is useful for someone like me who trains in a bit of a bubble. Even though we are vastly different in standard it is good to know the approaches other people take.


STG: avoid tweaks, design training plan and get stuck into strength training once recovered from bug, book trip(s) this spring,
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M-T 
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S -
S - Westway routes [5+-6a+]. 10 mins on/10 mins off x 4. Aerobic capacity, about 50% of usual volume and a notch or two down in intensity.

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Westway routes [5+ - 6b]. Another very gentle session.
W - Short fingerboard session (ie about 3 mins. total hang time)
T -
F - Short fingerboard session
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Longer fingerboard session (5 mins.)

Easy couple of weeks due to cold(s). Never quite sure how much to ease off when I'm like this, complete rest or keep ticking over? Fingerboarding at about 50% capacity has a small physiological load and doesn't involve an extra hour on the tube so hopefully doesn't delay recovery.

Plan: ease back into training as general health allows.

[andybfreeman]

Week 2 of seasonal plan, aiming toward a performance peak after Christmas and sending Tyranny 29 in the first week of Jan

M - Rest
Tu - ARC - 2 x 30min continuous on autobely
W - Rest
Th - ARC - 3 x 30min continuous on autobelay
F - Rest and driving 6 hours north
Sa - Trad new routing at Cania Gorge - 4 routes so less mileage than my plan dictated but lots of fun
Su - More new routing at Cania. Only did 3 routes today but finished with a worked go on what is now my project; a pitch of 30 m broken down into a bouldery start off a ledge with no gear (now bolted) followed by 20m of hard finger crack (all small but good pro) and a crimpy headwall with just enough gear Feels about 26 and is brilliant!

Weight - average 70.24kg last week, 69.0kg this morning

[Sasquatch]

STG - Mandala
MTG - Break and body rehab, then Start route training
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be, 8a OS, and 3-5 new local routes in the 8th grade

M-Shoulder rehab on tweaked shoulder
T-Easy hike 1 hr
W-Easy ARC climbing to see how shoulder felt
Th- FB - Repeaters, felt really good on pockets, crimps could feel it in the shoulder, so took them easy.  Also did a few board problems up to 7B.
F-ARC, and a little bit of generally easy bouldering
S-Hike 2 hrs
S-FB - Max hangs, and repeaters.  Fingers felt really slippy on crimp, so horrible crimp session, everything else set new PB though, so not sure what's going on.

The fb stuff has been super weird.  Normally my FBing is really consistant, but lately I've been all over the place.  Last week I set new crimp personal bests. This week new personal bests on the pockets and slopers, but went backwards on the crimp.   

[JackAus]

STG: DWS project.
MTG: More V7s.
LTG: V11.

Rubbish week again with no bouldering but 2 days over the water...

M:
T:
W: Big ride with Dad. 5hrs on the bike in full leathers. Hot. Think I lost a kilo in sweat.
T: Early morning at Big Red. Threw a rope over it and gave it a spring clean. 6 months and 3 days since I'd last been on it. Just cleaned up the crux, the rest I can clean ground up/doesn't need it. Purposely didn't take towel, board shorts etc to make sure I didn't get on it. Did a couple of V3/V4 lines fully clothed then raced off to work.
F:
S:
S: Proper session at Big Red. Afternoon so sun was on it(faces directly West), not exactly ideal conditions. Had 5 attempts, first go best go. Controlled reach through the crux 2-3 inches off the sloper, no more slapping but still way too short. Gradually got worse each attempt. Left when the sun got on the crux.
Quick blast on the bike when it cooled down abit.

[nik at work]

Ha ha ha thanks for all the STG/MTG/LTG  info guys. Since kicking up such a fuss I have provided exactly zero unsolicited opinions, I promise to do better when I get back from Margalef...
STG: Margalef. Got a couple of 8c's in mind.  Doing either would be amazing but I'd be happy with them just feeling like they'd be possible in the future.
MTG: Provide ill-informed critique of fellow power clubbers...
LTG: Cave projects

M: BM session +35kg (up to and including middle finger mono's) dropped to +20kg for the others.
T: BM session +20kg, increased hang time to 20s (was mid teens on 45's and slopey two finger)
W: nothing
T:  BM session no added weight. Increased hang time to 30 seconds. Didn't complete 45's, slopey two finger or mixed finger mono's.
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: nothing

Up early to catch a plane. See you in a week...

[fried]

MTG: Provide ill-informed critique of fellow power clubbers...

Bring it on! Good luck in Margalef.

[T_B]

83.8Kg

M -
T -
W -
T - Lunch - School. After 11 days off and 3 weeks since I last trained, needless to say I was pathetic.
F - Lunch - Foundry board. Better than y'day. Did 2 x 20-move circuit, 80 leg pulls.
S -
S - Fingerboard.  Repeaters. Failed on 5 then 4 front 3. Failed on 2 back 3. 2 x 7s on 15mm edge open. Did manage to lock top of Moon board on both arms. 30 press ups.

Just getting back into it. Pushing through final week or so of house extension,  then will be able to climb ineevening/weekend.

[honroid]

Long term goals: French 8a and V10
Short term goals: 7c and V9 in the UK
Focusing on sport this coming year after achieving my bouldering goal of V9 this summer. Trip to Buoux at Christmas.
M - rest
T - BM 7C session failing on last few hangs of last set.
W - rest
Th - attempting 4 x 50 secs on, 65 secs off. Repeated 3 times, followed by foot on campusing 90 secs on 90 secs off repeated 3 times.
F,S,Sun family weekend

[Schnell]

STG: 7B/+ local classic, keep doing shoulder stability stuff.
MTG: try to get sport/bouldering trip in early in the new year.

M. rest after outdoors on previous day.
T. Max hangs in the morning, progress on weighted hands on BM crimps. eve indoor training session doing 'hypertrophy' ie training lock offs and unsuccessfully trying to static campus moves.
W.
T. Same as tues, max hangs in the morning and indoor session evening.
F, S, S. faced with awful weekend forecast myself and gf took off for a weekend away. lots of swimming in the rain.

Decent if light week. I was cycling from work to wall, about an hour each way and had surprisingly decent sessions. I'm going to have to do this for the next while which isn't a great prospect training-wise. Hopefully I'll be able to rearrange stuff a bit to make it work. Also my half hearted 'hypertrophy' phase is showing that I should probably buy some weights to use at home though I don't really have the space.

[shark]

M. PM Good session on systems board. Felt good on the Crusher crimps and upped number of moves on PE laddering
T. Eve. Wave for first time in ages. Felt good. Did the new (for me) L2’s on the steep bit
W.
T.
F. Eve. Nice evening sess on Wave after another busy work week.
S.
Sun. Early start to Liverpool airport for me and Tom. We could have had an extra hour in bed as didn't realise the clocks had gone back.  Raining when we got there. At hotel Philoxenia by mid afternoon but wiped so we had a nap instead and met up with the Telfers for dinner.

Had a bit of a cold/sore throat all week and was busy with work again. Weighed around 11.7 so not perfect weight but not that bad either.