[mindfull]

Not much running and climbing this week because of moving houses which gave multiple whole body workouts.

MO:
- Stretching
- Strength (bodyweight/weight)

TU:
- Stretching
- Tempo run 7k/35min

WE:
- Stretching
- Power (boulder/campus)

TH:
- Stretching
- Power Endurance (bodyweight/weight)
- Strength (weight)

FR:
- Stretching
- Power Endurance (weight)

- SA:
Rest/Moving houses (good PE forearm workout)

- SU:
Same as saturday

Since I now have a pullup bar and bench @home, I'll get more flexibility to play with my workout. I also moved in the proximity of a climbing gym, so will do 3/4 climbing sessions/week.

Next week I'll alternate benchpress/pullup/climbing days. Will try 100 pullups/day, 300 benchpress/day.

[kelvin]

Thanks mindfull

A good week for me despite having to work all seven days.

Mon - 4x4s on f5, f5+, f6a, f5+. Happy with this as I've only ever managed one 6b and a couple of 6a+ routes at Pinnacle.

Tue - Rest

Wed - Warm-up, then fingerboard a little to test injured middle finger. Bit too soon to be honest and it needed lots of icing next day. Then did a one hour yoga class. After, boulder around for a bit on V2/1, trying to skip holds on crimpy V2 problems etc but really just wanted to head home and had to wait for a lift.

Thu - Routes. Flashed 5+, 6a, 5+, 5 all either overhanging or having a roof. Tried two steep 6b routes, needed two sits on both, could do all the moves okay tho. Then got on the crimpy 6a+... failed as was mullered, should have led it before the 6bs. Then 3 x 5+ no rests to finish. Took a couple of falls on the 6a+ when I kept going up knowing I'd maybe not make it, need to do more of this.

Fri - Boulder fun session. Managed the V3 on the slab first go of the evening, now I can lift my foot high again. First V3 since I've been back. Got on two other V3s and I'm one move from doing both of them but new set being done on Mon/Tue. Matey made up a jamming problem using no holds in the corner - this was quality but I didn't have the reach for getting round the big volume. Didn't do lots but was a good session.

Sat - Aerocap 10 x 10s. Cut the rests to 6 minutes. Averaged 7 minutes for each set, climb up and down. Some V2/1, lots of V0 and about 110/120 moves per set. Was pretty boxed for the last two sets, I think down to needing food, otherwise I think I've got this spot on. Hardly need to shake out, whilst feeling ten problems in a set is enough and I'm sweating bucketloads. Managing to keep the feet nice and tidy too.

Still a long way to get back to where I was earlier this year but at the moment, I'm just happy to be managing the injuries and niggles well enough to put some mileage in.

Hope everyone else had a great week.

[Muenchener]

STG (Autumn): 7a redpoint: Edelbitter, Konstein. Not looking too promising just now, chances luring a partner to the crag in late autumn, and finding the route dry before the spring, are looking pretty slender.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: Beastmaker 11 sets: same grips & times as last week +2kg, plus an extra set of front 2 which was a mistake. TGUs to warm up, but was very weak on these today.

W: Kettlebells: 3x4 one-legged deadlift, 3x25 swings. Mobility, core, pressups.

T: Beastmaker 10 sets, no change from Tuesday. Weighted pullups 3 x 3 x 10kg, 2 x 2 x 15kg

F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Lamentable attempt at a quick bouldering session after work. Struggled to do single moves on a project that felt close the last time I tried it. Hopefully this is down to yesterday's fingerboarding and not to actual weakness.

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Plan was to coach M jnr whilst trying to avoid getting even weaker before tomorrow's good weather forecast, but there was a new 6C/7A circuit in a fetching shade of fluorescent pink, and I need to start trying things at that level if I want to get off the 6Bish bouldering plateau I've been at for years. So I did.

S: Alpine multipitch. I was hoping to get a few decent sport ticks this autumn - have goals & unfinished projects all over Bavaria - but we're having a fantastic Indian summer, and I had a chance to meet up with a good mate I've barely climbed with this year. So fun in the sun at 2,500 metres in October with a nice little five pitch UIAA VI (Pfanzelt, Höllentorkopf)

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting the thread Mindful...

M:

T: Helsby. Stopped at Harmers but was damp - so headed to Helsby and had a pleasing hour working the reverse of the hard traverse...

W: Met up with Nai at Rubicon in the morning. Frustrating - as I slept funnily the night before and woke with a cricked/stiff neck. Normally this loosens off, but not on Weds - so after trying to warm up and starting to hurt when reaching up gave up. Annoying

Th:

Fr: Dodging showers, went to Helsby again. To find it condensed out! Crazy.. sat on the top and had my lunch then went home tail between legs

Sa: Cows Mouth. Met up with R-Man and a merry band of folk keen to try out the new Lancs guide... It was a really odd day weather wise. Strong wind - and rain had stopped a few hours before - but the Grit just wouldnt dry! I guess the humidity was that high.,.. Eventually stuff dried out and I managed two new problems at 7A - one low ball with a hilarious last move that was a 20cm distance lunge that was so hard! and the other a nice straight up problem. Some good stuff there - shame the conditions were not up to much.. Well done to R-Man for such a great job on the guide... Got home and went out to a party/housewarming thing.. drank lots of wine and ate lots of bad for me food :-/

Su: Walk, Late sunday lunch (more bad food)...

[csl]

October Goals
10 7's in Spain
Onsight 7b+ in Spain
Stick to training plan - going well.
Find a UK project for the winter - 7c/7c+

Mon - rest
Tue - Fingerboard + 4x4's. Ok session, feeling reasonably fit and got a new PB on the fingerboard.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Meant to have another 4x4 session but couldn't find a partner. Did 20:10's at the biscuit factory instead. Ok session.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Saturday. Bouldering. Onsighted about 60 problems from V2-6.
Sun - Sunday - Rest.

Should have done more training this week, but have had a persistant cold/flu type illness i want to get rid of. Small taper this week before Spain the week after.

[fried]

Long week of work, I've been meaning to write something in Muenchener's 'sleep' thread, but I've been too tired.

Mon/ Tue - nuffin
Wed - Indoors, tired, but manage the 2 new blue problems so 4/4. I was happy with the last one as it was a sidewayz double dyno that I managed to lank and static.

Thu/ Fri - nuffin

Sat - A lot of rain, I decided to have a look at Buthiers piscine, very damp. Head back to 91.1 the safe option. Warm up on the orange, repeat a couple of reds ( including one I think I cheated on before). Another nice afternoon in shorts and t-shirts in a barmy 25°.

The orange circuit at 91.1 was where it all started for me, my first ever problem was no.2; a mantel which completely wrecked my shoulders, since then I've avoided this prob, convinced that it must be nails, but no, it really is very easy.

Sun - Traditional French birthday celebration , 5h eating, pate, terrine de fois, rosbif, cheese. beer, red wine, white wine, red wine, champagne, red wine, calvados, coffee, red wine. When I stop drinking I'm going to have a nasty headache.

[nik at work]

STG: Trad project, meh no chance...
STG(2): Margalef trip success
MTG: Trad project(s)
LTG: Cave projects

M - Head to project, it's a waterfall, fuck! Training traverse x 6

T - BM session +35kg. Felt pretty good so did +35kg for the two mono hangs (hard work!), still dropped to +20 for the slopey two-finger and the 45's.

W - BM session. Rather than max hangs decided to mix it up and have a play with repeaters. Not something I really have gone for in the past. I used this format:
7 seconds hang, 3 seconds off, repeat 6 times. Hanging two handed I did one set on each of the following holds with 2-3 minutes rest between sets:
Middle row deep four finger pocket
Middle row deep two fingerpocket
Middle row not so deep two finger pocket
Bottom row four finger pocket
35's
Bottom row shallow two finger pocket
Middle row deep mono's
Bottom row shallow mono's

Any thoughts on that regular repeater-ists? I'm not sure whether this is a decent routine or whether I'd be better sticking with less hold variety and doing 3 sets on each hold?? Opinions? Felt pretty boxed by the end.

T - Nothing

F - Nothing

S - BM session +35kg but went back to dropping down to +20kg for the mono's as wasn't feeling great. TBH every hold felt like hard work, the slopers seemed to be in particularly poor condition (or I was shit...)

S - Lunchtime BM session +20kg, a bit rushed due to small time window but felt better than yesterday.
Evening, kids in bed and decided I hadn't done enough at lunchtime so had a quick no weight  BM session, 20s hangs on all the usual holds then did a PB on my laddering on the two finger pockets (30 moves).

Been quite a difficult week as been busy squared and eating patterns have been disrupted and usual diet has been suffused with an excess of junk. So been feeling tired and sluggish all week. Also annoyed by the fact that the trad project is now pretty much 99.9999% not going to be climbable until next year, bum. One week until Margalef, planning on keeping the BM sessions going until Saturday then rest Sunday, travel all day Monday crush Tuesday...

I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. Just saying like.

Also sorry my posts are so long and detailed, I find it useful to write it all down but have no expectation that anybody else should or indeed would be interested.

I'll shut up now...

[honroid]

Long term goals: French 8a and V10
Short term goals: 7c and V9 in the UK
Focusing on sport this coming year after achieving my goal of V9 this summer. Trip to Buoux at Christmas.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - 3x3s on pockets on the 45 board, followed by 2 round beastmaker session of repeaters
Wednesday - Friday rest
Saturday - Not inspired by routes so had an indoor session of bouldering and tweaked old middle finger A3 injury.
Sunday - warmed up, quick 45 board session on back two and index monos followed by campus board. Sessioned one minute on, two off footless (touching down where necessary - manage about 39-40 seconds completely footless). Then did a 4x4 of foot-on campus: one min on, one min off. Finger was fine.

[kelvin]

I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. Just saying like.

Unsolicited opinion is always welcome round these parts - I'm fumbling in the dark as far as getting better goes.

STG - Oct. Sort middle finger, till then do lots of aerocap which should help sort the mad flash pump I get.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season.
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - 7a and not a soft one.

Probably more relevent... from the 'aims for 2014' thread

Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year. 5 days in Font. 6A & 6A+ in two goes each
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday) Managed 3, all flashed
Indoors V5

Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love 
Get some more E1s Bela Lugosi near Rainbow Slab the highlight
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy) Have got on E2 and E3 on lead
Consolidate VS and HVS Pretty solid at VS now, grit HVS remains a mystery

Sport
Onsight 6b Yup, soft and a slab
Actually redpoint something  Had a day working a 6c+

[andybfreeman]

Back to the fold after a long absence. I am embarking on a periodised plan based on the rock prodigy program/rock climbing training manual with the aim of climbing Tyranny, a fairly bouldery 29 (8a) in the Grampians after Christmas. This is my first foray into systematic training (the more I read makes me less and less comfortable using that word to describe my former activities!) so I am using the example plan from the Andersons' book this time to see how it goes. That will allow me to refine the plan for season two which will build toward a performance peak to coincide with a 4 week trip back to the UK next June/July.

My plan for season one breaks down into 4 weeks of base fitness, 3 weeks of strength, 2 weeks of power and 3 weeks of power endurance culminating in a performance peak stating after Christmas when I have time off work to travel.

M - Rest
Tu - ARC - 2 x 20min continuous on auto belay
W - Rest
Th - ARC - 2 x 25min continuous on auto belay
F - Rest
Sa - Outdoor mileage, easy crag with gf so opted to do 2 sets of 20+ min ARC up and down climbing on lead and traversing the base to switch routes
Su - Outdoor mileage - new crag for me which was busy so not ideal for training. But, I climbed 3 routes including the easy crag classic and 23 and 24

Weight - Average 70.9 last week and 71.2kg this morning. I am not currently dieting but my plan is to try and shed a couple of kilos after I have finished the fitness and strength phases of my seasonal plan. 68kg is my target for Tyranny

[nai]

W - BM session. Rather than max hangs decided to mix it up and have a play with repeaters. Not something I really have gone for in the past. I used this format:
7 seconds hang, 3 seconds off, repeat 6 times. Hanging two handed I did one set on each of the following holds with 2-3 minutes rest between sets:
Middle row deep four finger pocket
Middle row deep two fingerpocket
Middle row not so deep two finger pocket
Bottom row four finger pocket
35's
Bottom row shallow two finger pocket
Middle row deep mono's
Bottom row shallow mono's

Any thoughts on that regular repeater-ists? I'm not sure whether this is a decent routine or whether I'd be better sticking with less hold variety and doing 3 sets on each hold?? Opinions? Felt pretty boxed by the end.

I've started Repeaters again after realising I was at my strongest on Max-hangs when doing them too (also both the Beastie Boys and Rock Climbers Training Manual advise them so there must be something in it.  Must be?).

I'm doing:
35s
3f drag in low 4f slots
4f semi crimp in low 4f slots (this means my middle 2 are bent at 120 degrees and my pinkie and index completely straight)
4F deep middle 4f slots bent at 90 degrees
F2 deep mid 2f pockets (adding so much weight that I'm going to try med pockets with less weight next session)
back3 split over deep & med mid 2f pockets

This does try to cover all grip angles and address my (perceived) weaknesses though so may not be what you're after.

Have made some good gains after six sessions, average added weight up 5kg.
For each grip I do one set of 4 reps and one set of 3 reps with extra weight, this is because it's coming up to bouldering season though so trying to maximise strength, I'll probably do more reps when prepping for the next sport season.

[nai]

This may be of interest, from  RCTM.

[T_B]

83.7Kg

M - S nowt

Will do something this week, but quite enjoying the break...

[cheque]

STG- Complete Beastmaker app "5A" workout.

2014 goals- 20 13 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.

LTG- 8a sport, classic trad routes that currently seem way out of my league.

M- Rest.

T- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

T- Notts Depot. Did the 6a and 6c on the circuit board as a warm-up then again as a warm-down. In between I did the red boulder problems (V3-V5 I think). These felt hard- very few flashes- but they are pretty dirty. Flashed one of the yellows (the level above them) though.

F- Rest.

S- Had to work from home.  Got on the Beastmaker for the first time in almost 10 months though. Decided to start at the bottom and tried the 5A workout. I'd like to meet the climber who can complete this but can't boulder above 5A as they must have the worst footwork in the world! Made it about 5 hangs in. The only way is up!

S- Girlfriend's birthday.

Didn't touch or even see rock this week- first time since May. Having non-injured fingers (they still go stiff after climbing but I think this might just be something I'm stuck with) and watching Wide Boys videos has made me psyched for training again- going to stop having double rest days (doesn't seem to be working for Liverpool) and see what I can get out of jumping on the Power Club repeaters bandwagon.

[andy_e]

(they still go stiff after climbing but I think this might just be something I'm stuck with)

I think this is to do with scar tissue building up (but have no idea how the human body works). I alleviate this by using a Spiky finger massager which I find works really well and it feels nice too.

[cheque]

I think this is to do with scar tissue building up (but have no idea how the human body works). I alleviate this by using a Spiky finger massager which I find works really well and it feels nice too.

Cheers Andy. When I went to the US in 2012 a few mates had them and they were universally referred to as a "fingerfucker". As you can imagine, googling didn't bring much success in finding one for myself. Then Sidewinder, sometimes of this forum, turned up at the wall with one and told me of the more PG-rated name and where to buy my own. It felt good!

Two days later I lost it in the undergrowth at Long Tor Quarry. I'll get another one.

[tomtom]

Cheque - I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out

[cheque]

Cheque - I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out

It's fucking brutal isn't it?! My max hang record on the 4-finger edges in the bottom corners is five seconds and you're supposed to do repeaters on those 3 times (I think) in the workout!

There are quite a lot of repeaters on the jugs in there though. I'd say PE on decent holds is my biggest strength (people who routinely burn me off the boulder problems at the Depot won't warm up on the circuit board with me as it basically finishes their session) but I did find the jug repeaters harder as the 5A sesh progressed. I guess climbing efficiently and using rests is my real strength, hence why I think the BM workout will "unlock gains" for me.

Back on it tonight anyway so we'll see!

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T Foundry board - was weak so went on the Wave for a bit
W Gym - weights and core
T Beastmaker
F Foundry board again
S
S Beastmaker

Agree that the workouts according to the BM app are nonsense

[Schnell]

STG: 7B/+ project, keep doing shoulder stability exercises

M. Max Hangs in the morning, my fingers seemed to need to ease back in after a week off. I only got up to about half my pb in terms of added weight. It shows how quickly those gains decline for me. Eve: training session inc. strength/large muscle group exercises, lock offs, muscle ups etc.
T
W. Same as Monday, back to gains on the FB
T.
F. Same as Monday and Wed, reasonable FB session. Didn't have much motivation to train at the wall so I just tried some hard stuff and had a decent session.
S.
S. Managed to sneak a lucky weather window and got a half day out on the granite. Had a decent session, repeating a 7A+ I'd done before but dabbed on, did this second go. Then another 7A retro-flash. Afterwards I went and had about 45 mins on the 7B/+ proj, did all the moves except an awkward lurchy sideways slap to a sloper which I was close to catching but never quite made. With a bit more time I think I'd have got the move but the rain closed in and we sacked off.

Decent week training wise. I'm trying to train strength/hypertrophy at the moment rather than power to increase my pulling power but I'm a bit short of exercise ideas. Ideally I'd use some weights but haven't got access so it's all a bit half-hearted. Not too worried though cos I'm doing ok outdoors. Hopefully progress will continue on the project which would be a really nice tick to get.

[shark]

11.6-9

M.
T. PM Systems board - completed 2 sets on  the PE exercise for the first time (4 x 15moves with I min rest) and a good stab at a third set. Also felt strong on some crimpy pull problems
W.
T. PM Systems board. Not quite as successful as Tuesday but did a third set of 20:10s
F.
S. Eve BMC Shindig in Buxton - sat next to Stephen Venables.  Undid all the dieting from the week.
S. AM Hungover. Woken uop by a call from Stephen Venables who was partnerless so went to Stanage. Massively windy. He did Paradise Arete which I followed with one trainer as both my climbing boots were left footers. I borrowed one of his size 11's and tried Billiard Buttress HVS but with only one rope there was no protection for the balancy moves up the left rib and a gust might have blown me off balance. In short I escaped into the offwidth on the left  . Then soloed Paradise Crack with one rock shoe which was pretty thrutchy at the top.

Busy week again workwise otherwise would have gone on the lime. Seem to have a bit of a cold today. Kalymnos next weekend.   

[tomtom]

Cheque - I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out

It's fucking brutal isn't it?! My max hang record on the 4-finger edges in the bottom corners is five seconds and you're supposed to do repeaters on those 3 times (I think) in the workout!

There are quite a lot of repeaters on the jugs in there though. I'd say PE on decent holds is my biggest strength (people who routinely burn me off the boulder problems at the Depot won't warm up on the circuit board with me as it basically finishes their session) but I did find the jug repeaters harder as the 5A sesh progressed. I guess climbing efficiently and using rests is my real strength, hence why I think the BM workout will "unlock gains" for me.

Back on it tonight anyway so we'll see!

I was one of the testers for the BM app before it came out - and I fed back that the 'warm up' and easy sets were really tough for me!

[Sasquatch]

STG - Mandala - I leave in 3 1/2 weeks
MTG - Break after STG, I think I'm going to do 4-6 weeks of yoga intensive. Then get fit for routes.
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be, and find 3-4 new local 8a sport routes to bolt and climb.

M - FB MAW and Repeaters (2 sets of 1/2crimp, m2, sloper, f2, b2, and pinch), Levers, Abs
T - Routes at Gym, 21 routes up to 7c, mostly in the 7b/+ range.
W - Rest
Th - FB MAW and Repeaters (2 sets of 1/2crimp, m2, sloper, f2, b2, and pinch),
F - BW(5x12 Pullups, Pushups, Rows, And ATB's) and Stretch
S - Rest - Brewed a new Belgian which sould be ready to drink next fall
S - FB MAW and Repeaters (2 sets of 1/2crimp, m2, sloper, f2, b2, and pinch), Followed by fun bouldering session in the gym)

Hard but good week.  New PB on Sunday on max hangs, and on m2, f2, b2 on repeaters.  Tweaked shoulder a bit bouldering on sunday.  Did a little bit too much, so will be taking a bit easy this week.

I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. Just saying like.

[tomtom]

I don't know if people are interested in hearing unsolicited opinion on their training but if they are it really is helpful to have the STG/MTG/LTG information. It just gives a frame of reference. A few times I've thought of posting comments but haven't felt that I had enough background to write in a meaningful manner. Just saying like.

I don't really have any at the moment... Numbers wise I'd like to do 8A... but its not really a goal, more a distant aspiration... I have projects, things I'm working - but they don't really feel like long/short term goals...

I get psyched for problems, but find it very hard to do this for training... Training feels like a chore only carried out to stop me going backwards for when weather/circumstance means I can't climb out doors...

[nai]

Numbers wise I'd like to do 8A...

I climb 7A/B outdoors and can't do the 5A beast maker work out

I was one of the testers for the BM app and I fed back that the 'warm up' and easy sets were really tough for me!

Plenty to work with there